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Re: Paint Preparation Product Shootout
Originally Posted by opie
The wax/grease remover that i use is napatha based as well.
And i remember reading somewhere that mike p always said it was not a good idea to is an ipa, Terrible lubricant and can soften clear.
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What do you use?
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Re: Paint Preparation Product Shootout
Thanks for the write up. Not much could pull me from using Eraser just for the smell. Gyeon prep smells nice but Eraser blows it out the water.
I don’t know if you get BlackFire down there but there panel prep is nice and the bubble gum smell is pleasant.
I think I may give Feynlab’s solvent based prep a try next.
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Re: Paint Preparation Product Shootout
Originally Posted by Coatingsarecrack
Thanks for the write up. Not much could pull me from using Eraser just for the smell. Gyeon prep smells nice but Eraser blows it out the water.
I don’t know if you get BlackFire down there but there panel prep is nice and the bubble gum smell is pleasant.
I think I may give Feynlab’s solvent based prep a try next.
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No BlackFire in Australia, although we do get Feynlab now.
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Re: Paint Preparation Product Shootout
Originally Posted by opie
The wax/grease remover that i use is napatha based as well.
And i remember reading somewhere that mike p always said it was not a good idea to is an ipa, Terrible lubricant and can soften clear.
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I've read from multiple sources stating the same. Fresh/uncured paint and single stage paint is more prone to swelling. When diluted, the risk of swelling is reduced significantly.
The lack of lubrication is also true which is why it isn't a good idea to just get some undiluted ipa, cut it with water, then proceed to use that as a dedicated paint prep product. You might be able to get away with it on some cars but on softer paint systems your risk of towel marring is much higher.
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Re: Paint Preparation Product Shootout
Originally Posted by Coatingsarecrack
What do you use?
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Imperium is the brand name, i forget the part number. I get it through my buddys body shop.
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Re: Paint Preparation Product Shootout
Originally Posted by SNP209
I've read from multiple sources stating the same. Fresh/uncured paint and single stage paint is more prone to swelling. When diluted, the risk of swelling is reduced significantly.
The lack of lubrication is also true which is why it isn't a good idea to just get some undiluted ipa, cut it with water, then proceed to use that as a dedicated paint prep product. You might be able to get away with it on some cars but on softer paint systems your risk of towel marring is much higher.
I remember a fella on here a few months back who kept having a micro marring issue on his vehicle that had softer clear. He was using an ipa. If i remember correctly that was the culprit.
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Re: Paint Preparation Product Shootout
Yikes, IPA is *expensive* down under! I already buy and use 91% isopropyl alcohol for other things and just off the shelf at my local Walgreens (US drug store chain) a 32 oz bottle is like 5 bucks and change. Faced with that value prop I'd definitely be more inclined to the vended solutions. Thanks for your time, effort, and expense in doing and sharing this.
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Re: Paint Preparation Product Shootout
Nothing wrong with Diggers Isoprophyl from Bunnings, works like a charm, in fact works better than anything I've tried.
The market is overpopulated with various products, I choose to stay with good old stuff.
And yes, I still use the Collinite 845, with outstanding results.
Flex 3401 & PE14
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Re: Paint Preparation Product Shootout
Originally Posted by Danube
Nothing wrong with Diggers Isoprophyl from Bunnings, works like a charm, in fact works better than anything I've tried.
The market is overpopulated with various products, I choose to stay with good old stuff.
And yes, I still use the Collinite 845, with outstanding results.
I can see a Diggers spray bottle from where I'm sitting right now, but I can also see Carpro Eraser, which smells much nicer. I haven't really noticed a difference in the results. I suppose I could wipe down half the car with IPA and the other half with Eraser, then coat both with say, Collinite 845, and see if there's a difference in beading and longevity, if we want to get scientific.
I put a layer of Collinite 845 on my FJ a few weeks ago, it was as much about the results as the process, zoning out while applying and buffing. I still have some Dodo Juice waxes on the shelf as well.
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Re: Paint Preparation Product Shootout
A couple of amendments/notes that have come to my attention since I wrote this thread.
Carpro Eraser -
I received this comment elsewhere by a Carpro product specialist -
"Eraser isn't actually IPA based, its a different solvent blend. That's why it doesn't smell! The additional ingredients in Eraser helps with additional cleaning, work time and lubrication so its always going to be more effective than a solvent like IPA and water".
The makes a lot of sense, and something I found very helpful to learn.
IPA/Water Blend -
I had a very experienced, no-bull detailer say to me "off the shelf, you want a 99% proof IPA. Anything else isn’t doing it properly."
In my opinion, that will be very dependent on the coating being applied.
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