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Super Member
Re: Dr. ColorChip on Metallic Paint
Originally Posted by Themikerobe
It will definitely look better. And one bottle is a lifetime supply in my experience so it's definitely a worthwhile purchase.
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What do you do to avoid having the paint in the bottle get dry? Of course keep the bottle closed but I once bought a kit for a car that I ended up selling. Less than a year later (with a bottle that I never cracked open) I could feel it wasn't as liquid in there anymore every time I shook the bottle. So now I got the color for my current car but I wasn't counting on having it for much more than the initial application as I assumed it would get dry once I open it up.
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Junior Member
Re: Dr. ColorChip on Metallic Paint
Originally Posted by BSoares
What do you do to avoid having the paint in the bottle get dry? Of course keep the bottle closed but I once bought a kit for a car that I ended up selling. Less than a year later (with a bottle that I never cracked open) I could feel it wasn't as liquid in there anymore every time I shook the bottle. So now I got the color for my current car but I wasn't counting on having it for much more than the initial application as I assumed it would get dry once I open it up.
I don't intentionally do anything special but I have happened to keep it in the box it came with which would make it always be in the shade so that could effect it. That's the only thing I can think of.
Sent from my FRD-L14 using Autogeekonline mobile app
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Re: Dr. ColorChip on Metallic Paint
I've had similar experience w/ Dr. Colorchip on dark metallic paint (Ford Sterling Grey). The look of the final repair is VERY dependent on the metallic flake, how you apply it, and how 'it' chooses to behave that day.
-If you do not mix the paint thoroughly by mechanical means (i.e. shaking it up isn't going to cut it), the flake won't suspend evenly/fully, and you'll get a color mismatch AND the metallics won't match.
-For application - forget the 'dab and smear' bit. Maybe this works great for flat colors, or if you're just slapping the stuff onto a road-rashed panel, but for a precision chip repair, it looks FAR better in the end if you dab or flow the paint right into the chip, taking as much care as possible to NOT get paint on the surrounding areas. A microbrush, toothpick, or even paint pen works really well for this, depending on the chip size/condition. If done this way, SealAct is completely optional, reportedly. I had good luck coming back and very lightly applying some 10-30 min after filling the chip. Dr. Colorchip claims sealact has some curing/hardener properties, and I wanted to be sure the chip repair fully hardened, so on it went. If you did a clean job with the paint, this shouldn't even really remove any from the repair (of course, if you have some spill-over outside the chip, this is the time to take care of it).
-Even doing everything carefully as above, some of my chip repairs look better than others. They all look better than bare chips though, which is the point to bear in mind about all this.
Another thing to note about it is that the Dr. Colorchip paint has very little 'filling' properties. That means you can layer multiple touch-ups into the same chip if you're not happy with your first attempt. Some of my best-looking repairs with it have 3-4 applications in them. Just make sure you let the prior touch-up fully dry before going in there again. This may sound like a pain - but remember - this is an alternative to doing the full sand, fill, paint, polish chip repair routine, and it's still far less effort (and potential to do damage) than that.
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Super Member
Re: Dr. ColorChip on Metallic Paint
Originally Posted by Senna1
I've had similar experience w/ Dr. Colorchip on dark metallic paint (Ford Sterling Grey). The look of the final repair is VERY dependent on the metallic flake, how you apply it, and how 'it' chooses to behave that day.
-If you do not mix the paint thoroughly by mechanical means (i.e. shaking it up isn't going to cut it), the flake won't suspend evenly/fully, and you'll get a color mismatch AND the metallics won't match.
-For application - forget the 'dab and smear' bit. Maybe this works great for flat colors, or if you're just slapping the stuff onto a road-rashed panel, but for a precision chip repair, it looks FAR better in the end if you dab or flow the paint right into the chip, taking as much care as possible to NOT get paint on the surrounding areas. A microbrush, toothpick, or even paint pen works really well for this, depending on the chip size/condition. If done this way, SealAct is completely optional, reportedly. I had good luck coming back and very lightly applying some 10-30 min after filling the chip. Dr. Colorchip claims sealact has some curing/hardener properties, and I wanted to be sure the chip repair fully hardened, so on it went. If you did a clean job with the paint, this shouldn't even really remove any from the repair (of course, if you have some spill-over outside the chip, this is the time to take care of it).
-Even doing everything carefully as above, some of my chip repairs look better than others. They all look better than bare chips though, which is the point to bear in mind about all this.
Another thing to note about it is that the Dr. Colorchip paint has very little 'filling' properties. That means you can layer multiple touch-ups into the same chip if you're not happy with your first attempt. Some of my best-looking repairs with it have 3-4 applications in them. Just make sure you let the prior touch-up fully dry before going in there again. This may sound like a pain - but remember - this is an alternative to doing the full sand, fill, paint, polish chip repair routine, and it's still far less effort (and potential to do damage) than that.
glad you posted this. tried some repairs yesterday on my silver metallic pontiac. My biggest issue is with depth, and I too found that just filling the hole seemed to work better, but I struggled with this because all their literature states not to do this and if you do, you might not have good results. I've let a few deep chips dry and plant to just redo again and again until they fill. I never expected perfection, but what I got yesterday was not worth the money I paid either. I think I had better luck with the much cheaper duplicolor kit and was hoping this would be worth it.
2009 Pontiac G8GT
2015 Ford Explorer Limited
2019 Chevy Silverado RST Z71
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