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Re: Review: RUPES Mark III BigFoot 21 Polisher by Mike Phillips
Continued....
Review
I was REALLY impressed with this new updated BigFoot 21 long stroke polisher. The 21mm is my favorite and it was fun to re-visit this type of tool for buffing out an entire car and a very curvy car at that.
I don't remember EVER experience any pad stalling with this new Mark III version and most of the time I was only on speed setting 4. Normally I'm always on speed 6 with these types of tools to help with maintaining pad rotation but pad rotation just didn't seem to be a problem.
I've always LOVED buffing with the RUPES ultra soft white 7" foam pads and of course the Pinnacle Jeweling Wax is an incredible product that uses amazing abrasive technology.
If you've been waiting (for years), to take the plunge and get a RUPES BigFoot 21 long stroke, free spinning orbital polisher, this newest updated version is great.
I give it 2 thumbs up!
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Re: Review: RUPES Mark III BigFoot 21 Polisher by Mike Phillips
Great write-up Mike. Question: Why does Rupes continue to have the shroud contact the backing plate? I don't get it. Rather than lubricate the surface, why don't they just make it not touch at all?
Former professional detailer. Current medical student (class of 2023)
2017 Infiniti Q60 3.0t AWD
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Re: Review: RUPES Mark III BigFoot 21 Polisher by Mike Phillips
Originally Posted by conman1395
Great write-up Mike.
Question: Why does Rupes continue to have the shroud contact the backing plate? I don't get it.
Rather than lubricate the surface, why don't they just make it not touch at all?
That is a GREAT question. Myself and Todd Helme both shared our reasons why, (I believe Todd's reasons are the most accurate, I just shared what I was told by the head Engineer at RUPES).
In that same line of logic - why does everyone that copies the RUPES design include a rubber shroud that rubs on the back of the backing plate?
They could have just not used a rubber shroud? The Porter Cable polisher has been around for 20+ years and it doesn't have a rubber shroud? Neither does the Meguiar's MT300 or the Griot's 6" DA or the HF DA.
I have to go out to the garage and finish packing for a private Roadshow Class in another week. I got a good start with the tools, now it's time to pack the pads, chemicals and other supplies so I can get it MOVING towards it's destination.
TOOLS! - Car Detailing Training - Packing for a Roadshow Class! No sitting all hands-on!
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Re: Review: RUPES Mark III BigFoot 21 Polisher by Mike Phillips
Very nice review Mike!
That Vette came out glossy. You know, it should be illegal the amount of shine you put on cars that come through your hands.
Keep up the great work
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Re: Review: RUPES Mark III BigFoot 21 Polisher by Mike Phillips
Originally Posted by Mike@DedicatedPerfection
Very nice review Mike!
It was kind of short and to the point. Big picture is I used it over an entire car, a fairly curvy car to so I would have real-world experience to share a factual opinion. Except for flat panel cars I don't tend to grab any companies 21mm long stroke polishers for most of my detail work as I tend to like gear-driven tools to simply work faster since there's no pad stall.
So I was very happy with the performance of the Mark III as it seem to work really well as far as maintaining pad rotation on this car. I would add that I think it's easier to maintain pad rotation with the softer 7" white polishing pad than it is to maintain pad rotation with any other firmer pad so I'll have to buff out some more cars using the other RUPES pads to test this new version to it's limit. Suffice to say, out of all the BigFoot 21 polishers the Mark III is the best bang for your buck.
Originally Posted by Mike@DedicatedPerfection
That Vette came out glossy. You know, it should be illegal the amount of shine you put on cars that come through your hands.
Thanks!
The Pinnacle Jeweling Wax really works nice for cars in this condition. I find myself recommending this product to a lot of people with cars like this that stay in great shape but do need the occasional refreshing to restore that just waxed look. I think I mentioned this previously but a number of people either asked me what ceramic coating I used or inferred the coating I used looked great. Then I told them it wasn't coated but waxed.
Have to admit - the red paint came out incredibly glossy and it looks as good if not better in person as it does in the pictures.
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Re: Review: RUPES Mark III BigFoot 21 Polisher by Mike Phillips
Pinnacle Jeweling Wax? Wouldn’t that be outside the system?
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Re: Review: RUPES Mark III BigFoot 21 Polisher by Mike Phillips
Here I've put some of the Pinnacle Jeweling Wax on the face of the pad.... if you don't know - you use a one-step cleaner/wax like a compound or polish as it relates to how much product to use.
You certainly don't take the silly advice of using 3 peas sized drop.
Mike can you please elaborate on the 3 pea-sized drop comment? I've always been told less is more. Is that quantity of product specific to this Wax or do you believe people under-use product in general? Thanks
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Re: Review: RUPES Mark III BigFoot 21 Polisher by Mike Phillips
Originally Posted by jbodrich1
Mike can you please elaborate on the 3 pea-sized drop comment?
Sure, glad to. My goal is to always educate and I'm willing to put my experience and opinion on the front line for anyone to agree with or disagree with.
Originally Posted by jbodrich1
I've always been told less is more.
Is that quantity of product specific to this Wax or do you believe people under-use product in general?
Thanks
The old adage
Less is more
I definitely true for some things. Not my gas tank or my bank account.
When using a PURE wax or PURE sealant, in this context, the word pure means NON CLEANING. Then in this example you are SUPPOSED to be applying a product like Meguiar's #26 or Pinnacle Souveran Paste Was using the less is more technique BECAUSE the paint you are SUPPOSED to be applying these types of non cleaning products should already be in new, excellent or show car condition and thus all you're trying to do is lay down a thin uniform layer of product.
So yeah, less is more. Overusing the product would be simply wasting the product.
Now here's what I wrote - note the part I made bold
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
Here I've put some of the Pinnacle Jeweling Wax on the face of the pad.... if you don't know - you use a one-step cleaner/wax like a compound or polish as it relates to how much product to use.
You certainly don't take the silly advice of using 3 peas sized drop.
When using any quality cleaner/wax of as some of you like to call it, an AIO or All-in-One, you want plenty of what's in the cleaner/wax ON the surface WORKING for you.
This can include,
- Abrasives
- Lubricating agents
- Chemical cleaners
- Solvents
- Waxes or any type of protection ingredients
In context, if you're using an AIO or cleaner/wax, you're SUPPOSED to be working on neglected paint, that is paint that has defects like,
- Swirls
- Scratches
- Water spots
- Oxidation
Thus you need the things I listed above working in conjunction WITH the pad, tool, time and technique to remove the defects and leave the surface both polished and protected.
IF you underuse the product when working on this type of paint then you're diminishing the overall results you can achieve and investing a lot more time to get the job done.
What I always write when talking about cleaner/waxes, or cleaner/sealants or AIOs or jeweling waxes, is you want to use the product HEAVY or WET --> this means you use plenty of product. You are not ridiculous and use so much product it's spraying and splattering all over the place, but you don't use 3 Peas Sized Drops. That would be ridiculous. And anyone telling you this is simply still learning.
I actually met a recognized Pro Detailer a few months ago getting ready to start buffing on very neglected paint. Right in front of me he applied 4 peas sized drops. Still way to LITTLE product for the paint he was working on. I let him buff this first section and then wipe off the residue to inspect the results. He basically buffed to a dry buff due to so little product used. Keep in mind, anytime you buff to a dry buff on scratch-sensitive clearcoats you risk micro-marring the paint. That's working backwards in my book.
Then I politely shared with him what he was doing and what he should be doing. He politely told me he was always told to use 3 pea sized drops. That's an example of bad information simply being regurgitated or parroted in the blogosphere and the results is everyone that is YouTube Trained & Certified simply don't really know what they are doing.
I cover all of this in all of my classes, car detailing classes and boat detailing classes and with boats it's even MORE important to use a product heavy or wet because dry oxidized gel-coat absorbs some of the liquids in the product as you're working the surface so you automatically lose some original lubrication and chemical cleaners to the gel-coat. And same thing applies when working on oxidized single stage paint.
Great questions!
Thanks you for asking! I hope my explanations make sense.
p.s.
Just to give due credit where credit is due, it is Meguiar's that originally assocated the word PURE with non-cleaning polishes and non-cleaning waxes.
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