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  1. #1
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    Beginner's Questions

    With spring around the corner (for us in Ohio at least), I am excited to start working the cars of our households. There are 3 cars, 1 of them is new (bought in September 2013), and the others are a 2008 and 2011.

    I bought the Pinnacle Black Label products when they were first introduced for my new car, but didn't get to use them due to the harsh winter we had.

    So my question is
    I want to invest in a Polisher to help me remove swirls and imperfections (chips for example) on the older cars, clear and remove glass imperfections, and apply the Black Label products to all three cars.

    1. Which of the DA PCs do you recommend?
    2. if I was to work on a car at a time, which and how many pads should I get?
    3. Do I have the right products? I know I need to get the TSR 3.0. What else?
    4. For the older cars, do I need to get anything else after I apply TSR? Or will the Black Label Surface Cleansing Polish be sufficient? I want to make sure the black 2011 look glossy and have a show room finish


    These are my initial questions. I already have all the clearning pads and MFs I can get.

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Super Member Andr3wilson's Avatar
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    Re: Beginner's Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by MorphiousGX View Post
    With spring around the corner (for us in Ohio at least), I am excited to start working the cars of our households. There are 3 cars, 1 of them is new (bought in September 2013), and the others are a 2008 and 2011.

    I bought the Pinnacle Black Label products when they were first introduced for my new car, but didn't get to use them due to the harsh winter we had.

    So my question is
    I want to invest in a Polisher to help me remove swirls and imperfections (chips for example) on the older cars, clear and remove glass imperfections, and apply the Black Label products to all three cars.

    1. Which of the DA PCs do you recommend?
    2. if I was to work on a car at a time, which and how many pads should I get?
    3. Do I have the right products? I know I need to get the TSR 3.0. What else?
    4. For the older cars, do I need to get anything else after I apply TSR? Or will the Black Label Surface Cleansing Polish be sufficient? I want to make sure the black 2011 look glossy and have a show room finish


    These are my initial questions. I already have all the clearning pads and MFs I can get.

    Thanks in advance
    1. A lot of people will recommend the Griots GG6 over the PC because it has more power. A more powerful motor has no correlation to correcting ability, it just won't let the motor bog down as much if you press too hard. A Porter cable will serve you just fine, I like the GG6 as it has a nicer and higher quality construction.

    2. 3-4 cutting pads, I recommend LC yellow, you can use the orange as well, but yellow will be much faster. 2-3 finishing pads for the polishing steps. I like the blue and black ones.

    3. What do you have? You should have a compound, then a finishing polish (cleansing polish) and a sealing layer (wax, sealant, coating).

    4. Cleansing polish after the TRS will work great!!

  3. #3
    Super Member ski2's Avatar
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    Re: Beginner's Questions

    Can't beat the GG6 for the weekend detailer--all the power you need to keep the pad spinning and it has a lifetime warranty. Say you use the polisher 10-15 times a year. Imagine if it breaks down 3 years from now--send it back to Griots and they'll send you a new one. With other brands you could be in for a $60-90 repair bill.

    Even though the GG DA can handle 6.5" pads you'd be better off getting a 5" backing plate now and starting with 5.5" pads--more effective, easier to use on curved panels and tight spots and less expensive. You can't have too many pads so you can get through an entire detail with having to stop to wash pads and wait for them to dry--minimum 4 pads for compounding, 3-4 for polishing and 1 per product for LSP application. And, keep them clean by "Cleaning on the fly" during polishing.

  4. #4
    Super Member AeroCleanse's Avatar
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    Re: Beginner's Questions

    No polisher will remove chips from any surface.

    I would go with Rupes microfiber pads and Rupes Zephir Gloss Coarse Gel Compound 250 ml. with Rupes Keramik Gloss Fine Gel Polish 250 ml.

    If you can afford a Rupes polisher too, great if not a Porter Cable 7424 or Griots Garage polisher is fine, try and get a 5" backing plate with it.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the answers so far.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andr3wilson View Post
    3. What do you have? You should have a compound, then a finishing polish (cleansing polish) and a sealing layer (wax, sealant, coating).
    I don't have any compounds yet. However I'm leaning towards Wolfgang TSR. And I have the Black Label products for cleaning and polishing as well pinnacle souvern carnuba wax for final application.


    Quote Originally Posted by AeroCleanse View Post
    No polisher will remove chips from any surface.
    I'm aware of that. I guess my rookie question was concern if the DA would make worse if it used on the area where chip is.

    Quote Originally Posted by AeroCleanse View Post
    I would go with Rupes microfiber pads and Rupes Zephir Gloss Coarse Gel Compound 250 ml. with Rupes Keramik Gloss Fine Gel Polish 250 ml.
    Better than the ones mentioned above? (Pads and products)





    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ski2 View Post
    Can't beat the GG6 for the weekend detailer--all the power you need to keep the pad spinning and it has a lifetime warranty. Say you use the polisher 10-15 times a year. Imagine if it breaks down 3 years from now--send it back to Griots and they'll send you a new one. With other brands you could be in for a $60-90 repair bill.

    Even though the GG DA can handle 6.5" pads you'd be better off getting a 5" backing plate now and starting with 5.5" pads--more effective, easier to use on curved panels and tight spots and less expensive. You can't have too many pads so you can get through an entire detail with having to stop to wash pads and wait for them to dry--minimum 4 pads for compounding, 3-4 for polishing and 1 per product for LSP application. And, keep them clean by "Cleaning on the fly" during polishing.
    That's a good tip too. Question now would be what pads. I heard two different answers as far as what pads get. LOL scratching my head now.



    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Super Member Kamakaz1961's Avatar
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    Re: Beginner's Questions

    IMO, if you can get the Flex 3401 VRG that would be the DA to get. It is more $$, however, there are more options you can get to be more versatile with the Flex.

    I am in Andr3wilson's camp that the TECHNIQUE is the best way. Any DA's whether it be a PC, GG, Flex or Rupes (another awesome DA) does not matter if your technique is not that great.

    As for Pads, I am more on the conservative side...I use the Orange Pads from Lake Country for Compounding (I use Menzerna PF2500) and for polishing the White Pad (Menzerna SF4500) and Red or Black or Gold for LSP.

    Either way any comments on this thread gives you valuable information on what to do.

    FYI, I have the PC 7424 XP and I would prefer that over the GG 6, again, that is me. You can't go wrong with any of the DA's mentioned above.

  8. #8
    Super Member ski2's Avatar
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    Re: Beginner's Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by MorphiousGX View Post
    That's a good tip too. Question now would be what pads. I heard two different answers as far as what pads get. LOL scratching my head now.



    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
    IMO flat pads provide the most effective correction/polishing--LC Flat, Hydrotek, Buff & Shine.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ski2 View Post
    IMO flat pads provide the most effective correction/polishing--LC Flat, Hydrotek, Buff & Shine.
    Ok. Mind me ask why? Vs the grooved ones. Sorry for all the questions

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Super Member ski2's Avatar
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    Re: Beginner's Questions

    I know others will disagree, but I feel there is less contact with the paint and the potential exists for spent polish, removed clear coat and contaminents from the paint can get trapped in the pockets or grooves.

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