Swirl Remover help

[popcornplayer28]

Hey Guys and Girls, looking for some advice.

My car has Swirls all over it, im not really sure as to what swirl remover to use.

I can see that the Wolfgang Swirl Remover 3.0 is a pretty aggressive compound and the Meguiars Swirl Remover is less aggressive.

Do you have any advice on what would be best to use as im not sure how to tell whether the Swirls are severe or light.
The paint is OEM VW Golf GT Metallic Blue Clear Coat (2005)

I understand it would always be case of going for the least aggressive product to get the job done but money is tight and i dont want to waste money on one product if it doesnt work.

Any advice you can give will be of a great help.

Many Thanks
Jay

[Mike Phillips]

Hey Guys and Girls, looking for some advice.

My car has Swirls all over it, im not really sure as to what swirl remover to use.

I can see that the Wolfgang Swirl Remover 3.0 is a pretty aggressive compound and the Meguiars Swirl Remover is less aggressive.

Do you have any advice on what would be best to use as im not sure how to tell whether the Swirls are severe or light.
The paint is OEM VW Golf GT Metallic Blue Clear Coat (2005)

I understand it would always be case of going for the least aggressive product to get the job done but money is tight and i dont want to waste money on one product if it doesnt work.

Any advice you can give will be of a great help.

Many Thanks
Jay

Hi Jay,

The Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover is a medium cut swirl remover, not a compound, and no where near as aggressive as a true compound. In fact it's acutally a perfect blance of cut and finish for most projects the average person will work on.

It finishes out good enough for most people to look at the results and say, it's waxing time. For the more perfectionist type people they will want to follow-up with the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze which is not really a "glaze" but a fine cut polish. Thus the Wolfgang Twins, use the TSR and follow with the FG.


If you're talking about Meguiar's #9 Swirl Remover this is a Fine Cut Polish, possibly even could e considered an Ultra Fine Cut Polish.


Check this out...

How To Remove Horrible Rotary Buffer Swirl Marks out of a 350Z using the Wolfgang Twins



Before










After















The Wolfgang Twins with some good pads and just about any type of polisher will work wonders.

[popcornplayer28]

You're a star, thank you mike.

Can the Swirl Remover be used on RIDS with a heavier cutting pad or would you recommend a more aggressive product for them?


Many Thanks
Jay

P.S. just purchased your book and very excited to take delivery of it.

[Dogfather]

How many hours does something like that take.

[HateSwirls]

It's not uncommon for it to take 20-30 hours,many factors come in to play,damage, clear coat , tool and pads used,etc.
I worked on a Black Honda Accord Coupe about a month ago,the car had so many swirls to a point I had to make several passes, over and over, slow passes ,I hate working on Honda's. Lol

I used Griot's polisher, MF cutting pads bY CG'S and m105 & still took the entire weekend.

How many hours does something like that take.

[VP Mark]

I have been whack a moling swirls extremely quickly with megs M100, a buff and shine MF cutting pad and my rupes 15. If you are having to make 3+ section passes to get rid of swirls step up your product, pad, pressure, speed. Rids are another story but swirls can be dealt with quickly with the right combo.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online

[Mike Phillips]

Can the Swirl Remover be used on RIDS with a heavier cutting pad or would you recommend a more aggressive product for them?


Many Thanks
Jay

Two comments...

If you really want to remove deeper defects it would be faster to use a more aggressive product like a true compound.

I tend to recommend people shy away from removing RIDS on daily drivers, the clear layer of paint on new cars is pretty thin that in my opinion you're better off to simply improve the deeper defects, not try to completely remove the deeper defects.

P.S. just purchased your book and very excited to take delivery of it.

Why thank you sir, I'm confident you'll like it. If you look at my writing style on the forum it's the same way in the book, that is very detailed, covering topics thoroughly and written in a conversational manner, which makes for easy reading and understanding.


I worked very hard on this first book and I sincerely think it turned out very well.

[HateSwirls]

I got what your saying but you see this was one of the worst cars I ever had to work on, the swirls were deep, oxidation, water spots, you name it and It was on the finish.

I've always used m105,v34 or UC but never tried m100.
What's the difference in the four?
And how would you compare Wolfgangs Total Swirl Remover to m105 being I'm trying that next?

I have been whack a moling swirls extremely quickly with megs M100, a buff and shine MF cutting pad and my rupes 15. If you are having to make 3+ section passes to get rid of swirls step up your product, pad, pressure, speed. Rids are another story but swirls can be dealt with quickly with the right combo.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online

[HateSwirls]

Hello Mike,

My wife will be buying me the book, would it be possaible for you to sign it?
You are a guy with so much talent so it makes sense to buy the book and gain some knowledge

Two comments...

If you really want to remove deeper defects it would be faster to use a more aggressive product like a true compound.

I tend to recommend people shy away from removing RIDS on daily drivers, the clear layer of paint on new cars is pretty thin that in my opinion you're better off to simply improve the deeper defects, not try to completely remove the deeper defects.





Why thank you sir, I'm confident you'll like it. If you look at my writing style on the forum it's the same way in the book, that is very detailed, covering topics thoroughly and written in a conversational manner, which makes for easy reading and understanding.


I worked very hard on this first book and I sincerely think it turned out very well.

[Mike Phillips]

How many hours does something like that take.

First... in my entire life I've NEVER claimed to be the fastest at this craft. I'll leave that claim up to someone else. And this is because you cannot rush quality and removing swirls and scratches, that is "below surface defects" takes a certain amount of time.

That is, you have to move the polisher slowly over the surface to allow the combination of,

• Abrasive technology
• Pad technology
• Downward Pressure
• Time - Arm Speed
• Tool action - This is usually a combination of rotation and oscillation but could be just rotation.
• Technique

You need to allow the above things the time to "affect" the surface. By the word "affect", I mean abrade it in a way that removes defects while leaving both a nice looking finish behind and the most amount of paint as is possible.


The longest step in an exterior buff-out is the first machine step, in my how-to book I call it,

The Major Correction Step

Because that's what it is no matter what the tool, pad or product. The first step when working on a neglected finish is the major step and thus the Major Correction Step. (Had to give it a name).


If you don't remove the defects during this first step then chances are very good they will be their after the final wipe off of your LSP.

Deeper defects not removed during the major correction step are not likely going to be removed when you move onto the next step where you're now using less aggressive pads, products and even tools and technique.

So the end results, that is the BIG Picture, is determined during this crucial, first correction step and for this reason you cannot rush it.

All of the above said, for a car like you see in the above pictures, not including all the prep work you do before bringing the buffer down onto the paint, things like washing, claying, taping off, etc. to use a dual action polisher like a Porter Cable or variants, it's going to take a person that knows what they are doing a range of 3-6 hours.

The range of time is affected by the pad and product. With the Meguiar's Microfiber Cutting pad and their D300, a person can can knock out the correction step pretty quickly but I'd say 3 hours for the 350Z would still be pushing it and 4 hours minimum would be a better baseline.

The next step of course goes a lot faster because now you're not locked into doing as much work to each section you buffer out as the heavy lifting, so to speak is over.

So say you spent 4 hours on the first step, and 2 hours on the second step, and then applied a dedicated product for your last step, be it a wax, sealant or coating, you're looking at approximately 7 to 8 hours by the time you're making the final wipe down of the paint. And this time allotment does not count the other procedures like washing, drying, claying, taping-off, etc.

The above is doing a multiple-step process with the additional LSP application and removal.

With the Meguiar's Microfiber DA Correction System, you actually stop and are finished after the second step, that is using the D301. In this scenario you're looking at 5-6 hours for a two-step process over the average size passenger car.

NOTE: A person can do it faster but realistically, if you start buffing out sections faster you're not going to get as good of defect removal AND that's okay for doing production detailing. What i typed above would be more for the guy that actually owns the car he's working on and wants to do a good job.