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  1. #11
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    Re: 1968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 2020

    Hey Mike - thanks for another world class write up. You bring such great value to this forum.

    Regarding the use of comet on old SS paint, is there a rule of thumb when you're not sure the old paint can handle it, or do you have to use a PTG to determine?

  2. #12
    Super Member PaulMys's Avatar
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    Re: 1968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 2020

    Incredible write-up/how-to on a lost art Mike.

    Maybe Yancy can "Wash the Class"?
    It is no coincidence that man's best friend cannot talk.

  3. #13
    Super Member Klasse Act's Avatar
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    Re: 1968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 2020

    Ric...are you going to this, look at THAT ELDO1968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 20201968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 20201968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 2020

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    2022 Elantra N Cyber Gray
    Some say..."He likes Swedish fish because they're made with caranuba wax"

  4. #14
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: 1968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 2020

    Quote Originally Posted by 57Rambler View Post

    Mike,

    If you're only working on oxidized paint, would Barkeeper's Friend work the same/as well as the Comet ?

    My guess is yes. The big idea is a a pulverized abrasive that gently exfoliates the loose, dead oxidized paint via the washing process.

    Bon Ami would work too.


    I use Comet simply because it's very easy to find at just about any store and has better name recognition than Bark Keeper's Friend and even Bon Ami with the unwashed masses.

    Keep in mind, while I'm not good at it - I do take into consideration how Skynet will index my articles and then display them in search results. At the time I'm typing this, I have 670 how-to articles and 270 product reviews, (which are also how-to articles), so sometimes the products I choose come into play when creating content.


    I've never used Bar Keeper's Friend, and rarely used Bon Ami for the reasons listed above, so I don't know that they do or don't contain bleach. But the bleach component was important when it came to removing the blackish mold and mildew on the vinyl top and restoring a BRIGHT clean appearance.





  5. #15
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: 1968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 2020

    Quote Originally Posted by Wknd Dtlr View Post

    Hey Mike - thanks for another world class write up. You bring such great value to this forum.
    Ahh.... thank you for the kind words. I guess there's value if someone reads it and it helps them.



    Quote Originally Posted by Wknd Dtlr View Post

    Regarding the use of comet on old SS paint, is there a rule of thumb when you're not sure the old paint can handle it,



    Good question.

    Here's the deal, I would say "you" but I always look at the bigger audience, so "we all" when in the position to restore the paint on a car like you see in this thread, need to take inventory of these things,


    What is the goal? Preserve the original paint?

    Keep in mind, some people don't care or it's not a factor. For example, some people may find an barn find with original paint and after cutting a deal, send the car out to be restored, including a re-paint. So they wouldn't care less about preserving the original paint.


    How far gone is the paint in it's current condition?

    Does it already have thin spots? If so, the time saved by a Comet Wash versus doing 100% of everything you can do to be uber careful might be a whole lot of work for nothing. Just Comet Wash it and move to the next step.


    If it's old, in most cases, the paint is already thin

    So a Comet Wash is only going to remove what you're going to remove anyways just via a different method. The Comet Wash removes the loose stuff in the wash process. You can do the same thing by hand or machine and simply load up your applicator pads or buffing pads.


    I've never said the Comet Wash is the BEST technique, in fact, just the opposite, it's the down and dirty, quick and fast technique.

    If a person want's to be SUPER or UBER careful, then we made a video showing the most careful process.


    LIVE Detailing Class - Restoring original paint with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze


    I hand rubbed this sucker down THREE TIMES with Number #7 and the results were nothing less than phenomenal. Different kind of car. Much older original paint. Different kind of owner.


    BEFORE





    AFTER




    The full write-up for the above car is one of the most thorough I've ever written.

    LIVE Detailing Class - Restoring original paint with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze


    And the video is the only one like it in the world. Considering how long the product's been around, why didn't anyone at Meguair's or anywhere in the world do this before I was born? The answer is simple, I actually have a enough passion to share this type of information (and do the work, rubbing, pictures, typing).







  6. #16
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: 1968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 2020

    I wanted to answer the below question in a separate reply.


    Quote Originally Posted by Wknd Dtlr View Post

    or do you have to use a PTG to determine?
    First - I love Paint Thickness Gauges, they're a very cool tool. That said, I did and do about 99.9% of my work without using this tool.

    Why?

    Because I already practice "best practices"


    1. Inspect the car and the paint.
    2. Determine the goal
    3. Do a Test Spot - dial-in the LEAST AGGRESSIVE APPROACH
    4. Do my best work



    For the last 30+ years, the above practices seem to work and be working.


    I'm the guy that coined the term,

    Big Picture Indicator

    I now see "others" using this term and God bless them. But I coined the term so I'm qualified to explain what it means.

    A PTG is helpful to get the BIG PICTURE - that is, is the paint super thin or safe to work on. That's it. It's that simple. There are no hard rules when it comes to thickness of paint, you have be on a forum like this, do a lot of reading and educate yourself.

    Here's my take, if the paint is thinner than 4 mils - I consider this thin UNLESS it's a brand new car and no one has ever worked on the paint. If this is the case then I know at least 2 mils are the top coat or the clearcoat and I would feel safe or comfortable to compound it.

    But my first question would be - why does a brand new car need compounding?


    So you see, a PTG is a great tool to keep you from being to aggressive to a car's paint but only in context of the car and the paint. So it's a BIG PICTURE INDICATOR.


    It's also a great marketing tool. And to me, what I see is more people using a PTG for show and marketing than to keep themselves safe and there's nothing wrong with this use of a PTG - in fact - I teach and recommend this practice in my classes. Even made a video about it recently.


    When it comes to a car like the 1968 Cadillac, it is what it is. Paint Thickness Gauge or no Paint Thickness Gauge, after I took in all the different factors and considerations including what the OWNER wanted, (he wanted clean shiny paint), my decision was to exactly what the class did and what you see in the pictures.


    1. Comet Wash
    2. #7 Rub Down Technique
    3. Production Detailing




    And BOOM! We somehow went from this,






    To this,






    If nothing else, my experience is good for something.



    My advice and recommendation to anyone reading this into the future, (I always type for the future never the present), if you're reading this actual write-up and have gone so deep into this article as to read everything I wrote in this reply - IF you have a car like the one in this write-up and you have ANY QUESTIONS as to how to tackle it.

    It's real simple. Join this forum, start a thread. Share a picture and ask for help. Assuming I'm still here, (I could be dead), I know I'll personally do my best to guide you as to how to best tackle the car you've been asked to detail.


    Click here to register with our forum



  7. #17
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: 1968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 2020

    Continued...


    And in keeping with the idea of typing for the future, in case someone finds this thread but has not seen or maybe doesn't know about all my other related articles, here you go.


    All Mike Phillips #7 Show Car Glaze Articles in one place






    And - I need to update the above list.




  8. #18
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    Re: 1968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 2020

    Wow Mike - not only was your post super informative, your follow-up responses to my question was a full narrative itself on a related topic. thanks again!

  9. #19
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: 1968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 2020

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulMys View Post

    Incredible write-up/how-to on a lost art Mike.
    Thanks Paul.

    Someday I'll be dead, hopefully the info I've shared on this forum over the last decade will live-on...


    Quote Originally Posted by PaulMys View Post

    Maybe Yancy can "Wash the Class"?

    I'd be happy if he would simply wash my car.




    Quote Originally Posted by Wknd Dtlr View Post

    Wow Mike - not only was your post super informative, your follow-up responses to my question was a full narrative itself on a related topic. thanks again!

    That's what I do and thank you.



  10. #20
    Super Member TMQ's Avatar
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    Re: 1968 Cadillac Original Paint Detailing Class - September 2020

    Mike...

    This post is timely!

    I've always done the rub outs. Anywhere between 4 to 7 applications 24 hours apart.

    Now...

    I have an 87 Buick Grand National coming to me soon. Been left outside and is very oxidized. This is the "Factory Lacquer Paint". This paint big big issue when they came out. Most of the GN got repainted by Co.

    On fence re strategy.

    1. Do the rub outs over course of several days with #7. Then maybe very light polish with a one step and/or pure wax. (long process and safe)

    2. Do comet, apply one application of #7. Let it sit for 24 hours, then remove. Inspect. See if paint is "still" thirsty for more oils, apply second rub out of # 7. If paint looks good---Then to one step polish. And then Blackfire sealant. Last step witt Blackfire midnight wax. This is what I believe is called, "Blackfire Wet Ice over Fire".

    Side note: I am tempted to try Dr Beasley Z1 on this GN. After the wash/comet, Hit with NSP 45 and then lay down Z1...!!!! What you think??? (I will not use if paint still porous).

    Tom
    Mr Tommy's
    Wash, Buff, Wax
    Website: mrtommyshine.com

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