From "stay tuned" to T U N E D !!

[Desertnate]

- An actual knock issue. Hate to say it, but if all other elements are functioning correctly, then the knock sensor could just be doing it's job and reporting that it's hearing noise it shouldn't be. Timing or timing chain issues, piston slap, or excessive bearing clearance could cause this. I saw a procedure in the repair info that they have a tool for testing for excessive bearing clearance ( https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...90044-0001.pdf ). This is concerning because it means it's a thing they've seen enough to make a way to test for it. That might be a question to ask your service peeps and see if they can let you know what engines they've been seeing that on.

What about bad gas or gas with too low of octane? Would the ECU retard timing enough to avoid knock, or could you still get it? Just thinking out loud and grasping at straws now... I've never tripped a light, but have had some very unhappy cars in the past due to both low octane/bad gas.

[oneheadlite]

Desert and One headlight...THANK YOU!

So because this is triggered by the carwash, although not every single wash as the first knock sensor, original one, lasted till July 2023 (1 calender year of using the carwash multiple times a week, 2nd knock sensor one from Mid July 2023 till Jan 30th of this year) the techline is suggesting a special dialectic grease that had to be ordered and should be here Sat. I promised not to run the car through the wash and they cleared the code, road tested it and said I can pick it up after work.

Now when I cleared the code on the 30th of January myself it lasted 4 days and 47 miles before coming on AND no carwash either, just an FYI.

What do the 2 of you think about this "fix" from the techline

I'd be looking at re-pinning the connector at least at the knock sensor to rule out poor contact there just to rule it out. This would also give a chance to inspect the weather-pac inserts that help seal moisture out of the connector. This many visits in I'd be going hard for a Fix not a Fingers Crossed...

[Klasse Act]

I basically go to the same Shell and get V-power

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[Klasse Act]

I wrote down "Bullitt points" from your post OneHeadlight and passed it along to the SA. I told him it's not that I don't trust the mechanic but rather trying to pass along as much info as possible here to help this along, especially since it's so odd.

I txt'd my buddy Marcin about this and he tells me they tried the dielectric grease on his and while on the test drive the CEL came back and they had to replace the knock sensor, his original, mines #2.

I'm hoping the original batches were bad because the car was built during Covid and they were thin with suppliers and quality, hopefully my replacement is better and will take to the grease and that little o-ring on there isn't wasted.

I'm probably just on hopium here, huh I just want my car back and reliable, if that's even possible at this point. I know others in the world have much more pressing and important issues than this but my car is more important to me than you guys know! I went through so much sh!t 4-5 yrs ago and this car made a big difference in my life, really took my mind off of things and helped me get back to "normal", and then some as it's really a special ride

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[Big Dave]

All this talk of connectors and pins reminds me of a couple of issues I had. One was in my blue VZ Commodore, I was driving to work early one morning, dim conditions so I had my headlights on, I came up behind a car and noticed my hi-beams appeared to be on, but it wasn't showing on the dash, and I definitely didn't have my hi-beams on. I took it back to the dealer, I'd bought it used but it was still covered by the new car warranty. Diagnosis - bad connector, it had taken 2.5 years but eventually it was bad enough to short out and force the hi-beams on, they replaced the whole section of cable complete with connectors.

The other was in my white ex-hwp V8 Commodore, about 2 years after I bought it, sometimes it would just not start, turn the key and nothing happened, no click, no noise whatsoever, I get out and look under the hood, everything looks good, try again, nothing, shut the hood in frustration, try again, it starts. It took a very old school sparky, after I explained that process, to get me to try something. Next time it does it, when you open the hood, swap the starter and horn relays, they're the same specs, if it starts it was the relay, if it starts and the horn still works it was the connection for the starter relay. Well I did as told, and it was the connection, the relay had been put in when the car was new about 8 years before and had built up some resistance, when I was shutting the hood, angrily, it was enough to jolt it a little bit so it would start.

Car electrics are frustrating, and somewhat like magic.

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[Coatingsarecrack]

I basically go to the same Shell and get V-power

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Do you use premium?


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[Klasse Act]

Do you use premium?


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Exclusively

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[Klasse Act]

The dialectic grease was used on my buddy's car, which is the exact same car for the knock sensor and it popped on the test drive and they then replaced it. I know there's some labor involved replacing it but stop messing around and just replace what worked last time from the jump

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[Klasse Act]

So my SA called and the dialectic grease is in and I'll be dropping off the EN tomorrow after work, they'll work on it Thursday and test drive it and see what's what.

I fully expect the 1326 code to come back. It needs either another knock sensor, which cured it last July with dozens of washes from then till Jan 30th this year or something with the wiring.

Btw the tech reminded me during our chat that when they test drove it last week their equipment showed an ambient temp of almost 400 degrees...was it driven on Venus

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[oneheadlite]

...
Btw the tech reminded me during our chat that when they test drove it last week their equipment showed an ambient temp of almost 400 degrees...was it driven on Venus

You've got gremlins my friend...

400 degrees sounds like a substitute value for when the sensor's reading is too far out of range, from a bad sensor/connection/wiring/processing. They should try unplugging whatever sensor reads that and see if it changes - if it doesn't it could be another piece of the puzzle.