What did you do today non-detailing related?

[Big Dave]

I sharpened some knives this afternoon, while the Barrett Jackson Auction was on the TV in my garage. Mostly kitchen/cooking knives, but also my folding knife I used to carry at work. The main one I had to fix was Mum's favourite Victorinox utility knife, I used a rotary tool held on a vice to restore the edge, I don't know what she's been cutting with it, but it was messed up. I finished it off with a couple of different diamond particle sharpeners, one is so worn it basically just polishes the edge.

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[PouncingPanzer]

Recently discovered my inner rear brake pads at about 2mm when bleeding my brakes. I had a squishy pedal coming out of hibernation. Never bled them before. I didn't get air out but fluid was dark. The pedal feel is MUCH better now. I bled them with Motul Dot 5.1. A significant upgrade over Dot 3 and 4 and compatible with either. This is the first time I have needed rear brakes before fronts, ever, and at only 46k.....### VW? It is also the first time with an electronic rear parking brake, and they wear like garbage apparently. I have heard other owners, including Golf owners, who have had issues with rear brake wear on the electronic calipers. I got Brembo replacement rotors from ECS Tuning...the rotors are from overseas. They aren't even in the US catalog apparently. But they appear to be legit I measured them and they are almost too beautiful to install. Almost. For pads I got EBC Yellowstuff.

I will use the same rotor and pad combo on the front when the time comes. $300 in parts for rears. $500 for fronts...but they are an upgrade. An unplanned one at that which will delay the catback by months. I have to fight for my car budget these days with all the plans for the homestead.

[BudgetPlan1]

Switched an unused air hose reel to a pressure washer hose reel. Ratchet action is nice.



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[MisterSnoop]

Recently discovered my inner rear brake pads at about 2mm when bleeding my brakes. I had a squishy pedal coming out of hibernation. Never bled them before. I didn't get air out but fluid was dark. The pedal feel is MUCH better now. I bled them with Motul Dot 5.1. A significant upgrade over Dot 3 and 4 and compatible with either. This is the first time I have needed rear brakes before fronts, ever, and at only 46k.....### VW? It is also the first time with an electronic rear parking brake, and they wear like garbage apparently. I have heard other owners, including Golf owners, who have had issues with rear brake wear on the electronic calipers. I got Brembo replacement rotors from ECS Tuning...the rotors are from overseas. They aren't even in the US catalog apparently. But they appear to be legit I measured them and they are almost too beautiful to install. Almost. For pads I got EBC Yellowstuff.

I will use the same rotor and pad combo on the front when the time comes. $300 in parts for rears. $500 for fronts...but they are an upgrade. An unplanned one at that which will delay the catback by months. I have to fight for my car budget these days with all the plans for the homestead.

My last 2 Mazda's as well as my girlfriend's needed rear brakes before fronts. Not at 46k tho.

[Big Dave]

My last 2 Mazda's as well as my girlfriend's needed rear brakes before fronts. Not at 46k tho.

The FJ has been the same, I know it had all the pads replaced just before I bought it, I rang the last service place listed in the service book when I got it, to ask about the service history, I discovered it had just had the pads replaced, but it had never had a transmission service, which I did immediately. I got around 60-70k km out of the rear pads, and the front pads are still going after 7 years and 90k km+.

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[oneheadlite]

...
I got Brembo replacement rotors from ECS Tuning...the rotors are from overseas. They aren't even in the US catalog apparently. But they appear to be legit I measured them and they are almost too beautiful to install. Almost. For pads I got EBC Yellowstuff.

I will use the same rotor and pad combo on the front when the time comes. $300 in parts for rears. $500 for fronts...but they are an upgrade. An unplanned one at that which will delay the catback by months. I have to fight for my car budget these days with all the plans for the homestead.

Let me recommend going with Zimmerman rotors when you do your fronts - Brembo's replacement rotors for stock applications aren't quite what they used to be. Full disclosure, we haven't used Brembo rotors at the shop in years after having warping issues. But, probably telling when a friend of the shop who owns a Cryo treating company specializing in freezing brake rotors also stopped using them.

Not uncommon for cars these days to wear the rears as fast/faster than the fronts - I've figured it's from stability control systems helping regulate car attitude by doing a little squeeze on a rear caliper. I've seen cars come back from track days that have turned the rear caliper paint a different shade from all the heat of the rear brakes working overtime to keep them on line, even if they've had the stability control off.

[bill walsh]

I cleaned all the floors and cleaned stove&frig

[DFB]

My first attempt at a Terrarium.....................

[Texchappy]

Bookcase…
Sawn side #wood working - YouTube

[Odrapnew]

Did some tachometer calibrating today. Bought a cheap signal generator and wanted to verify the frequency was right so I connected my PC based oscilloscope. Frequencies were off by a little bit, but not bad. I used the o-scope readings to set the tach.

With my stock mustang tach, there is one adjustment pot and unfortunately if you want it accurate at one rpm, it's usually off at a different. At around 1990 they added a 2nd pot, so you could dial in low and high rpm a little better.

I set the 5500 rpm to be dead on since that's about my shift point. At commanded 6000 rpm, the tach is reading about 6300, so at least I won't overrev it. Lower rpm are close enough.

The autometer tach was pretty close across the rpm range so that's good.

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