Complete New Guy

**StylerG** · 06-06-2012, 11:14 PM

Hello

Just started receiving my first products from AutoGeek under the recommendation of my brother and the help he has received here.

Bought a porter cable, have an orange, white, grey and red 5.5" pads. Also picked up the Wolfgang twins and sealant. Ive been using mothers clay and instant detailer and gold class wax previously. Will primarily be using the products on a 68 mustang. Going to start with a full swirl removal and detail on my red 2500 Crew Cab GMC truck then move to my wifes pearl white lexus. Got sample pods of Dodo orange crush and white fantastic to top those off. After i get the feel ill move onto the mustang!

Tonight i played around with the new goodies on my off-road jeep (what could i possibly screw up there) and a few questions came to mind that i havent found in all the videos and articles ive read on here. How do i know when to use more product? This seems so simple but i didnt find myself havent a moment where i definately felt i was using too much or too little. Second as i try my first full correction on a crew cab truck it has ribs on top of the roof, how do i buff around these? Maybe the better question is how to buff with them? My final question, i cleaned the 2 pads i used tonight in getting a feel for the buffer using the clean on the fly method-then i put them back in the plastic bag they came in for my first full detail on Friday. I plan to wash them afterwards am i fine until then or do i need to go ahead and wash them?

Excited for the results, have already washed all the microfibers i received with the pinnacle microfiber wash. Have some DP products on their way as well as a wheel and tire kit from Wolfgang. Thanks for the wealth of information here! And a picture cause no-one reads

My process is going to be. Dawn soap wash. Mothers clay with showtime detail. Wolfgang auto bathe. Orange pad with Swirl Remover speed 6. White pad with finishing glaze speed 4.5. Sealant with red pad speed 4. Wait then top with the Dodo. I've got waffle weave towels for drying. Using orange microfibers for removing compound, blue for finishing and chinchilla for removing sealant/wax.

**Jim B** · 06-06-2012, 11:45 PM

Hi Complete new guy, I'm a relative newbie, so maybe I am wrong. I don't know if Dawn dishwashing is a good car wash to use on your paint. You might want to invest about $15 - $20 in a car wash product. I like ONR, easy to apply and wipe off water spots.

To the pros out there -- is Dawn good to use as a car wash and/or prep for clay-polish-waxing?

**Dugdug** · 06-07-2012, 12:25 AM

Originally Posted by Jim B

Hi Complete new guy, I'm a relative newbie, so maybe I am wrong. I don't know if Dawn dishwashing is a good car wash to use on your paint. You might want to invest about $15 - $20 in a car wash product. I like ONR, easy to apply and wipe off water spots.

To the pros out there -- is Dawn good to use as a car wash and/or prep for clay-polish-waxing?

Dawn will remove any wax. I use it if I'm going to do paint correction.

**Dugdug** · 06-07-2012, 12:45 AM

How do i know when to use more product?
You will get a lot of answers. I personally prime the whole pad first. Then after 6 or so passes in a 2"X2" area I may need another dime size amount and continue on in another section.

Second as i try my first full correction on a crew cab truck it has ribs on top of the roof, how do i buff around these?
Maybe the better question is how to buff with them?
By hand, or with the Griots 3 inch polisher. I don't have the 3 inch but I will be buying one soon. Also for me, if the ribs are at least 4 inches or so I will set my DA right on top of them being careful not to put pressure on the edges.

I plan to wash them afterwards am i fine until then or do i need to go ahead and wash them?
There's nothing wrong with washing every time but for me, I do a lot of scuff removal. Most of the paint correction I do is for just a few scuffs around a vehicle. Most of my customers are just interested in that so I personally don't see the point in washing them every time. I'll use a pad and put it back in the baggie, spritz it with Pinnacle XMT conditioner or water and then store all the pads in a bucket with a lid. When I go to use it again I check to see if the pad is still damp. I do this 2-3 times before washing unless I've done a full correction. I always have extra pads with me just in case I up sell on a full correction.

**StylerG** · 06-07-2012, 09:01 PM

DugDug thanks for the replies-just down the road from you in OKC! I got to spend a few hours tonight doing the top of my crew cab truck. The ribs ended up being spaced out just far enough for my 5.5" pads to do the work i was satisfied with at this point for the top of a truck i can't even see.

I'm getting a better feel for it. At first i was frustrated with the Wolfgang Glaze but slowed down and let it work down a bit more-better. Under a 4 I've noticed the Porter Cable doesn't have any power at all. I tried using the red pad and sealant on the 3 setting, it barely even moved the pad until i get that figured out i will apply the sealant by hand. Thanks for the welcome's. I now have the truck clayed and washed with dawn ready to go for the morning. I'll use the wolfgang auto bathe and then go to town with hopefully some great results!

**Buckskincolt** · 06-07-2012, 09:12 PM

Originally Posted by StylerG

I tried using the red pad and sealant on the 3 setting, it barely even moved the pad until i get that figured out i will apply the sealant by hand. Thanks for the welcome's. I now have the truck clayed and washed with dawn ready to go for the morning. I'll use the wolfgang auto bathe and then go to town with hopefully some great results!

When applying wax and sealant you use very little pressure. You should get a 3.5" backing plate and some 4" pads. One reason is they work great in tight areas, they correct a bit better on a pc/xp if you come accross something you need more correction for and I a 4" pad to apply waxes and sealants and it works great!