VIDEO: Opti Coat Application

[Chris Thomas]

Thanks Chris!

What is a high spot?

A high spot is an area that is left too thick to cure clear. Basically, when most of the panel flashes to clear, look for these remnants and lightly buff them until gone:

[Da Fats]

A high spot is an area that is left too thick to cure clear. Basically, when most of the panel flashes to clear, look for these remnants and lightly buff them until gone:

So you just knock em down with a micro fiber... then toss the mf right?
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[gmck]

I would actually love to do that, but I'm afraid time won't permit. I do all the accounting for my families 6 quick lubes, run my own detailing business, do consulting for Optimum, run this forum, and whatever is on the honey do list. I have actually been planning to video application of Opti Coat to my car since I just had a repaint a couple of months back, but haven't even had time to do that.

Wow that was quick. So who/what dipped out from the above<g>

Great video. Liked the different techniques. You sure use a lot more product than I do though. I'm tending to do double coats as I go, but I still suspect you are still using more. I'll experiment some more with a heavier coat.

Did parts of a 2007 Honda Accord today and that seemed to be far easier, re high spots than the BMW from a couple of days ago.

I washed the BMW yesterday and the boot lid beaded water like I've never seen before. The bonnet with C.Quartz also beaded well, but nothing like the Opti-Coated boot lid. After drying it, I thought I had another high spot - actually it looked more like a stain in the paint - a bit like your photo of the high spot, but without the rainbow. I went over that with Poli-Seal on a black pad and it just disappeared and thankfully it appears to have stayed that way. You might remember I had added Opti-Seal and then OCW to get back the slickness after I'd redone the Opti-Coat so maybe that had something to do with it.

I note that you mention slickness in your video, but I still feel the boot lid on this Honda is missing that property as compared to what I'm used to and like. I'll add at least OCW to it in the morning.

I'm beginning to think that I'll top any fully cured Opti-Coat surface with first a really light polish with Poli-Seal and then follow up with OCW. Then instruct the client to just wash and dry normally and wipe down with OCW for a perfect finish. Opti-Coat provides the overall protection and the wipe down with OCW provides the slickness that should satisfy even the most fastidious client for each wash from week to week.

[BobbyG]

Hey Chris,

I think this video really cleared up allot of questions users have had and also shows how simple and easy this product is to use..

Thanks for the great video!!

[silverfox]

I think I'm going to try it on parts of my car to see how it looks and reacts before doing the whole car. Surely the nose piece and front fascia that gets most of the damage, bugs, and road spray from traffic. (almost like putting on a clear bra). I'll also include the back sections behind the rear wheels and back valence up to the trunk line, as well as the parts under the doors and yes....the WHEELS.

Those parts of the car seem safe enough to make the plunge. I won't be surprised if I end up a week later doing the rest of the car. My order is in...now please somebody send us up some warm weather here in the northeast...!

[Chris Thomas]

So you just knock em down with a micro fiber... then toss the mf right?
Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

You don't have to toss it if you wash/rinse it right away. Contact with water within a few minutes will stop it from hardening in the fibers. Same goes for the applicator.

Wow that was quick. So who/what dipped out from the above<g>

Great video. Liked the different techniques. You sure use a lot more product than I do though. I'm tending to do double coats as I go, but I still suspect you are still using more. I'll experiment some more with a heavier coat.

Did parts of a 2007 Honda Accord today and that seemed to be far easier, re high spots than the BMW from a couple of days ago.

I washed the BMW yesterday and the boot lid beaded water like I've never seen before. The bonnet with C.Quartz also beaded well, but nothing like the Opti-Coated boot lid. After drying it, I thought I had another high spot - actually it looked more like a stain in the paint - a bit like your photo of the high spot, but without the rainbow. I went over that with Poli-Seal on a black pad and it just disappeared and thankfully it appears to have stayed that way. You might remember I had added Opti-Seal and then OCW to get back the slickness after I'd redone the Opti-Coat so maybe that had something to do with it.

I note that you mention slickness in your video, but I still feel the boot lid on this Honda is missing that property as compared to what I'm used to and like. I'll add at least OCW to it in the morning.

I'm beginning to think that I'll top any fully cured Opti-Coat surface with first a really light polish with Poli-Seal and then follow up with OCW. Then instruct the client to just wash and dry normally and wipe down with OCW for a perfect finish. Opti-Coat provides the overall protection and the wipe down with OCW provides the slickness that should satisfy even the most fastidious client for each wash from week to week.

The honey do was short Saturday and things just fell into place I suppose. I did put it on the front pretty thick because that area sees tthe most abuse. I still didn't even use the 2cc I had in the sprayer...it probably looks like a lot because I go over the angled spots severaL times. I knew if you played with it, you'd find your rhythm. It usually only takes a few panels or a couple of cars to get it. My car feels very "smooth" but not "slippery" like wax, I hope that's a good distinction. I thick if you find a topper that adds that, you'll be happy. especially something as fast and economical as OCW.

Hey Chris,

I think this video really cleared up allot of questions users have had and also shows how simple and easy this product is to use..

Thanks for the great video!!

I'm glad it helped and I appreciate all the support from you and everyone else who has commented.

I think I'm going to try it on parts of my car to see how it looks and reacts before doing the whole car. Surely the nose piece and front fascia that gets most of the damage, bugs, and road spray from traffic. (almost like putting on a clear bra). I'll also include the back sections behind the rear wheels and back valence up to the trunk line, as well as the parts under the doors and yes....the WHEELS.

Those parts of the car seem safe enough to make the plunge. I won't be surprised if I end up a week later doing the rest of the car. My order is in...now please somebody send us up some warm weather here in the northeast...!

I have actually suggested that for those who wanted Opti Coat protection but still liked to play wi LSPs. Do your wheels and front end at least and you will LOVE how easy they are to clean.

[loudog2]

I might put this on the roof of my SUV. Waxing the roof every time get annoying, but it has to be done.

[4wheelsonline]

I will try to do a black or dark color car soon so that you can see more of the flashing effect, but this video will give you an idea of how I apply Opti Coat with great results.

This what I am looking for. A video on how to apply Opti Coat.... If you already have a video that the model is black car... Please post it here.. I want to see it.

[john b]

I might put this on the roof of my SUV. Waxing the roof every time get annoying, but it has to be done.

thats a good idea-hate doin the roof also

[CoachBuesching]

Can Opti Coat be used for Chrome wheels?