How much would you charge?

**Vegas Transplant** · 09-25-2014, 08:51 PM

A swirl finder will be your best friend when working indoors on black.

**dad07** · 09-25-2014, 09:41 PM

Originally Posted by Grifffx4

I have plenty of D151 and some yellow CCS pads for a one step.

I just thought the MF system would work better. IT Might, the test spot will tell the tale.

What about D151 with a MF cutting pad (or finishing pad)? I would start with the finishing pad first.......

I only bring this up because I already have this product. I would have to order the stuff you guy's listed. I was going to do this Saturday.

your test spot is going to tell you what you need........make sure you have foam pads with you because I suspect that's what you will end up using.

not saying the MF pads won't get the job done.....in fact they will, but being soft black paint it might not.......meaning the results YOU are looking for.

Good Luck.........let us know how things go!

**AutowerxDetailing** · 09-25-2014, 10:37 PM

D151 via MF will leave hazing and micro marring on dark colored vehicles with soft paint. It will actually leave hazing on any color with soft paint... it just won't be as noticeable on white or silver.

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**Vegas Transplant** · 09-25-2014, 10:48 PM

Originally Posted by expdetailing

Are you using a pc?
I understand the point of a "test spot," but never understood why anyone who says to do a test spot does not recognize a "test spot" automatically happens anyways. Who says after starting a paint correction,"well that pad and polish didn't work out so well on this spot, but I think I'll finish the car this way."

Numerous posts and threads on these forums disprove this statement.

**cardaddy** · 09-26-2014, 02:08 AM

Two words, rinseless wash!

A decent bug sponge will save you quite a bit of headache as well.

The one thing that I haven't seen anyone mention yet, and it surprises me, is that Toyota still uses single stage paint on their red, white, and BLACK cars.

If that Lexus is single stage... and you so much as think about using a microfiber pad on it.... IT WILL TURN INTO A nightmare!

As good of a product as 151 is, you use that with the wrong pad, on single stage black paint, and it will also be a nightmare.

I would start with Meguiars Ultimate Compound and white pad on one test spot, and an orange pad on another test spot. Then maybe 205 with both pads.

If you have any Menzerna 2000 or 2500 they would be good with the orange pad.

With this being your first real paint correction, you need to tape off everything and do as many test spots as you can possibly find products and pad combinations to use on those tests spots! Where it me.... and I training someone to try and get a handle on a paint system that they've never seen, or worked with before, I would have that hood taped off into 6 if not 8 different test spots!

Remember, use the LEAST aggressive method to get the job done. If you use more than you need and it end up micromarring/hazing the paint...... you'll end up putting 15~20 or more hours into it just to get it right. You can always do more, but it's hard to take back doing too much.

I've done the large Lexus' in black, (both sedans and SUV's) and neither were single stage THANK GOD, but they were soft! Menzerna 1500 worked on them as a 1.5 step process (although I still like 2000 better).

Just start as normal, do 4~5 section passes on speed 4 (GG6) then pull the pad off the surface and do a light wipe with a soft microfiber towel.

Then hit the pad with a single spritz of distilled water (very lightly worked it in) and add 3 VERY tiny drops of product (less than half what the normal 3 drops would be). Next turn the speed up to 5~5.5 then go back with 5~6 more section passes to totally work the product down to where it is almost buffing totally clean.

Remove that with ANOTHER towel, (not the first one) taking care not to marr the surface.

If you want to check your progress at that point you need yet another clean microfiber towel and bottle of Eraser (that you apply liberally) and wipe down.

In any event after the polishing stage I would move straight to a sealant of some sort whether that be M21 2.0 or Power Lock or Wolfgang it really doesn't matter but you really need to move to a sealant at that point.

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**Grifffx4** · 09-26-2014, 07:40 AM

Oh boy I hope it's not single stage paint! I've never touched a car with single stage. :0

How will I be able to tell by looking at the car? Must I start a test spot to see?

Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately my product inventory is not so vast yet. I will need to order a lot. Looks like I will have to put this off a week.

**Belphegor** · 09-26-2014, 10:29 AM

Mike has an easy how to on how to discern what paint your working with.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...age+clear+coat

Good luck and I hope you have time to take some good pics!

**expdetailing** · 09-26-2014, 11:03 AM

Taping off the car is optional. Personally, with limited time on a detail, I don't do it. The biggest reason I see to tape when using a da is to control dusting, which can be taken car of faster, imo, with water when you're done.

**10secdream** · 09-26-2014, 11:12 AM

I have a Scion tC that has Toyota black 202 paint (single stage) and it is the softest paint I have ever encountered. Here is the level of correction I achieved using HD polish and a white buff and shine polishing pad.

**Andr3wilson** · 09-26-2014, 11:15 AM

Originally Posted by 10secdream

I have a Scion tC that has Toyota black 202 paint (single stage) and it is the softest paint I have ever encountered. Here is the level of correction I achieved using HD polish and a white buff and shine polishing pad.

Single stage?

You sure it's SS and not a tinted clear? Toyota phased out SS a long time ago.