$5,500 worth of detailing products... my STARTING overhead

**mark98xlt** · 05-02-2014, 08:30 AM

No lighting in case you have to work into the night or somewhere with poor lighting inside?

**JSou** · 05-02-2014, 09:03 AM

Good lord. Good luck.

**Niko Molina** · 05-02-2014, 10:44 AM

Originally Posted by Kengo123

Have you considered using bulk detailing products (or production detailing products)? You estimate 3-4 cars a weekend, $500-$800 bucks, which is around $200 a car, which to me sounds like aio/one step polishing jobs and interiors. I think if that's your goal, you can cut your budget a decent amount by swapping a few things out for some bulk detailing products (ex auto magic, car brite). By making that kind of switch, you can use the extra dough for marketing and advertising.. Perhaps a car wrap or something cool like that.

5 gallon pail of solid water based dressing that you can dilute - $80-$100
Bulk gallon carnauba wax - $25 - $33
Bulk gallon aio glaze/polish/wax filler - $25 - $30
5 gallon pail of high concentrate car wash soap $50 - $75
Etc etc

If you have a distributor in your area and can build a decent relationship, you can get these products on the lower side of the price scale

There's a few things you can swap out for bulk products that wouldn't make much of a difference in user experience and looks. If you're a good detailer, then you should have very little issue with making a car look good while using a bulk product. The only things I wouldn't consider swapping out are polishes and compounds.

Fair enough man. I was just shooting for quality products to help aid in giving the best finish/result possible.

Originally Posted by stilltipping3

Did I miss website design?

Nope. Already working on that. Business cards and marketing too.

Originally Posted by Evan.J

A few things:

Have you thought about using customers water and electric? This will save you lots of money.

I would go with 5.5" Pads over the Meguiars Soft buff pads. They are just too large for any DA and you can get better results with the smaller pads from LC. Additionally you will need to pick up a 5" backing plate for those pads.

If you getting the Rupes 15 or 21 then go with the Rupes pads. They were made to work perfectly with the machine. I have tired out numerous pads and I have realized the Rupes pads work the best. If you do go with the 21 I have added the smaller backing plate to mine and use the smaller pads. Make sure you get lots of pads the more the better. At the minimum you should have 3 per pad choice.

Another thing you can think aout addind is the Meguiars Microfiber correction kit or just the pads for the Rupes.

I would go with a different sealant like Collinite (to save money) or the Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant.

Go with the Speedy prep towel/mitt/pad this will decrease the time you spend claying the car in a heart beat. Spend the extra mony and you will be glad you did.

I like the wheel woolies but I would go with the Daytona speed brushes over the wheel woolies.

I would add Meguiars D156 for a spray wax and do away with the Mothers liquid carnuba wax.

No need for the wheel sealant as you can use the other stuff like the Blackfire or Collinite for that. Most wheels you will come across are clearcoated just like the car itself.

I would go with something like FG400 for a compound. M105 is good but can give you issues. If you like the Meguiars line then M100 or M101 is another good option as well.

Add in Optimum No Rines. You can use this for rinesless washes, detail spray, and clay lube so thats a no brainer.

Get lots of good paint towels and get lots of general purpose towels.

1. I'll be using customers electric.

2. Which Rupes pads do you use then? All 4? I know Meg's has three... which Rupes pads would be closest to the cutting ability of Meg's pads?

3. I read NXT 2.0 is damn good for durability...would I be sacrificing a bit to go with Collinite?

4. Will invest into a nano skin product.

5. Spray? How come? I'd like to apply wax via machine (Rupes w/finishing pad). Or is there really a difference? I know if you apply it by hand it's not always completely even from panel to panel.

6. I had figured wheel sealants/waxes were a bit different from paint sealants/waxes because they take a tougher beating and assumed they were on different material so they were made up of a different formula/ingredients.

7. I will get extra towels on top of my MF Kit and will also get some cheaper towels for dirty jobs (wheels, engine)

**GreatAvalon** · 05-02-2014, 10:49 AM

Regarding NXT...really? I've read between 1-2 months. Not that good.

**RevitalizeAutoSpa** · 05-02-2014, 10:55 AM

I typically got about 1-2 months out of NXT on my vehicles (both were non-garaged at the time).

**Evan.J** · 05-02-2014, 11:00 AM

Originally Posted by Niko Molina

1. I'll be using customers electric.
If you use the water as well then you will be much better off.

2. Which Rupes pads do you use then? All 4? I know Meg's has three... which Rupes pads would be closest to the cutting ability of Meg's pads?
The white finishing Yellow Polishing, Green Light Cutting Pad. You can also go with either thr Rupes MF pads or the Megs MF pads both work really well with the Rupes

3. I read NXT 2.0 is damn good for durability...would I be sacrificing a bit to go with Collinite?
No not at all you can see all the positive reviews of the 845. IMO the 845 and Blackfire are both great.

4. Will invest into a nano skin product.
You will be happy you did.

5. Spray? How come? I'd like to apply wax via machine (Rupes w/finishing pad). Or is there really a difference? I know if you apply it by hand it's not always completely even from panel to panel.
Spay wax for any express details and maintenance washes. You can use the D156 as you dry the car as well. It would not replace the sealants but for added protection for down the road.

6. I had figured wheel sealants/waxes were a bit different from paint sealants/waxes because they take a tougher beating and assumed they were on different material so they were made up of a different formula/ingredients.
Lots of people like the 845 on the wheels

7. I will get extra towels on top of my MF Kit and will also get some cheaper towels for dirty jobs (wheels, engine)

Hope all that helps

**Niko Molina** · 05-02-2014, 11:07 AM

Originally Posted by parttimer

Couple things i see here:
55g tank? I think most pressure washers are going to be something like 1.5gpm so will your tank be large enough to wash 2 vehicles in a day?
I know it silly, you need buckets..??
I think for production details tuff coat tire shine is too expensive, look for a bulk tire dressing you can use for tires and wheel wells.
You have 7" megs buffing pads? I think those are for a rotary, not to mention you have a rupes unit listed, a 7" pad is not going to work on an entire car.
Ditch the clay and get nanoskin, cheaper alternative based on how much work you are planning on.
I also would pick different compounds unless you have used M105 before.

1. I have buckets man

2. I read Tuff Shine is damn good and want to use quality products for a quality finish... Although I have seen people use Meg's D170 Hyper Dressing for their tires as well and the level of dilution essentially control the 'shine' it gives. Could possibly use that instead.

3. Will be getting Rupes pads... or Lake Country pads as I heard those are used as well.

4. Have switched clay for Medium Grade nanoskin mitt.

**Niko Molina** · 05-02-2014, 11:13 AM

Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845, liquid wax, heat-resistant wax, car wax

Is there a bulk option? I can't find it lol

Also would this be classified as a hybrid finishing sealant/wax? It says it's carnuaba wax and longevity of a sealant...

**taxi_dub** · 05-02-2014, 11:54 AM

Look into carpro perl. I just bought it, haven't used it yet. Somebody did a great review and broke down the cost and came out to like 42cents per vehicle. Seems to be a great product and you can use it for more then one thing.

**parttimer** · 05-02-2014, 01:08 PM

Originally Posted by Niko Molina

1. I have buckets man

2. I read Tuff Shine is damn good and want to use quality products for a quality finish... Although I have seen people use Meg's D170 Hyper Dressing for their tires as well and the level of dilution essentially control the 'shine' it gives. Could possibly use that instead.

3. Will be getting Rupes pads... or Lake Country pads as I heard those are used as well.

4. Have switched clay for Medium Grade nanoskin mitt.

Some will say to stay away from Lake Country pads on a Rupes, they get beat up pretty bad due to the large orbit. I have used hydro's on mine, but the rupes pads are where its at with a rupes unit.

Tuff Coat is great, but your going to spend and hour to fully clean the wheels to prep them for the coating. Not to mention the cost of the coating. I use black diamond tire gel for my tires for regular clients, $80 for a gallon and you have tons of applications. $50 for 16 oz of tuff coat and enough to do what, 10 cars? I only bust out a tire coating when doing it with a coating package, otherwise, standard dressing.
I would love to give everyone the gold class package, but not a bronze prices.

If your getting a medium grade mit be prepared to do a full polish, I would not suggest medium mit and a quick wax, your finish will be marred to high heaven. Even with a fine mit it still is going to be a tad messed up. (ON SOME CARS, especially dark/soft paint.)