How To Wash a Classic Muscle Car

[Mike Phillips]

Are they $475 better than the sprayer I'm using?

Thanks.

I don't know? That's for you to decide.



The Autogeek store tries to offer lots of options for EVERYONE.

If you don't want or need an electric, rechargabel sprayer like the Mytee Big Boss Rechargeable Solution Sprayer then that's what's best for you but we sell these and that means for some people this tool is what's best for them.

One thing I learned a long time ago was to never spend another guy's money. He can do that well enough on his own.

[Ford Fest]

I don't have a classic muscle car, but I do have a current muscle car that is more garage queen than anything. It is a black GT500 and I could use help with it. I have only hand applied Meguirs synthetic products. Although it is in the garage most of the time is still gathers dust quick. I currently use waterless wash, detail spray or even rinse less wash depending on the level of dust/dirt.

I'm ready to purchase a PC and need to stick to $350. I need just enough pads to do one car, but will need the proper pads to do my daily drivers as well. Based on the videos I've watched I will need orange, white and blue pads. I'm leaning towards Pinnacle or Wolfgang products. I just need direction on a kit or maybe alacart since I already have detail spray. I spoke with a great tech at AG and accidentally shredded my notes. I think he recommended the Pinnacle Show car kit, but would need a paint protectant to go with it.

I know it's not a classic, but it's my classic. I'd like to make the factory paint pop, but also need something to help against the dust issues.

Please help

[CowboyTruckn]

I see you are referring to classic muscle cars and using a waterless wash to keep it out of unintended areas... what is the difference between them and new cars today?

[Radarryan]

I see you are referring to classic muscle cars and using a waterless wash to keep it out of unintended areas... what is the difference between them and new cars today?

I don't want to speak for Mike but I believe I have read where he says that the main issue is introducing water into areas where it may rust, which is a bigger deal with older cars. Some newer cars use a lot of synthetic materials that don't rust, therefore doing a traditional bucket wash is not potentially harmful.

It's all about preserving classic cars the best way possible, and one of those ways is not introducing water in areas that cannot be dried (which is more prevalent on older cars and hot rods). If the water sits there over time, we know what that can do. It's all about taking Mike's motto of the least aggressive method or product for the job, and applying not only to polishing, but all aspects of car care - including washing.

Hope this helps. Happy detailing!

[Mike Phillips]

I see you are referring to classic muscle cars and using a waterless wash to keep it out of unintended areas... what is the difference between them and new cars today?

Good answer below by Ryan...

I don't want to speak for Mike but I believe I have read where he says that the main issue is introducing water into areas where it may rust, which is a bigger deal with older cars.

The above means more to anyone that has restored a classic car and had to replace rusted sheetmetal.

Pretty hard to find a rust-free classic. It's possible but you will usually pay more for anything that's 100% rust free. The major point being that after a person goes to all the work, time and expense to remove rust the goal is to then take the precautionary steps to not create the potential for it into the future.

Each us us can wash a car however we see fit. For me, as professional courtesy and best practice for the owner of classic cars, to NOT introduce water, at least LOTS of water to their car. That' just me though....

Some newer cars use a lot of synthetic materials that don't rust, therefore doing a traditional bucket wash is not potentially harmful.

While the above is true, most new cars are akin to Bic Lighters in that they are disposable. That is most people buy a new car and within 3-5 years they either sell it or trade it in.

I"m not sure we'll see the kind of restoration catalogs containing every known part to restore a Ford Focus, Honda Accord or Toyota Camry like you can easily find for classic Ford Mustang or classic Chevy trucks.


Point being, there isn't a demand to keep, restore and do anything with most modern cars while there is a HUGE market for classics and rust is an issue for old things made from steel.

Just watch any of the car guy TV shows, Overhaulin, Gas Monkey Garage etc, and when they go to de-construct a car one of the major issues is either removing rust or flat out replacing parts that are rusted too much to be saved.

It's all about preserving classic cars the best way possible, and one of those ways is not introducing water in areas that cannot be dried (which is more prevalent on older cars and hot rods). If the water sits there over time, we know what that can do. It's all about taking Mike's motto of the least aggressive method or product for the job, and applying not only to polishing, but all aspects of car care - including washing.

Hope this helps. Happy detailing!

Well said Ryan....

Big picture is this... having restored and hotrodded a few cars in my life I understand the rust issue very well and I choose to use waterless washes for classics, antiques, muscle cars and streetrods.

It just makes good sense. Plus, in most cases, cars like these are garage kept and they are not filthy dirty to start with.


We have a 1966 Nova Pro Touring to work on this week and the plan is to wash it using a waterless wash before doing any other steps.