MarkD51
Active member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 3,130
- 0
An update, and perhaps some tips that might help others with the use of this product.
Some weeks ago, some may remember an initial mismatch of paint hue I had gotten. Worked with Mr McCool, sent him a Duplicolor Bottle as a Sample, and the match appears as right as it ever could be.
Evidently it appeared, this color, Summit White has a couple different mix color "recipes" floating around out there.
So, yesterday, feeling I had gotten some experience with the product a few weeks ago on some inconspicuous areas, set out to address the few ultra tiny little chips on the Tahoe's Upper Panels, and Hood. Temps yesterday morning was 62F degrees, and calm.
Most of these chips that I could find are no bigger than a pin head, to pin head sized at the most.
I first examined the entire vehicle with a fine tooth comb, and then simply used a small piece of Blue Painter's Tape 2" above, or near the chips, so I knew exactly where to find them quickly. I felt this was important, because it did previously appear that the Colorchip paints need to be applied, and leveled rather quickly. Previous attempts at about a 10-12 minute dry time was not working as easily as it should, and had found difficulty leveling any excess.
After taping above-near all found chips, I then used an Auto Body Prep Solvent to clean the chip, for better bonding of paint.
I went back, and wiped dry any residues left behind.
With the smaller applicators in the kit, and rubber gloved hand, I walked around the truck, mimic'ing the Colorchip Vids, and this took only a matter of a couple minutes time, applying right to the chip, smearing, and moving onto the next.
I noted some weren't getting enough fill, but patience persisted, and found that one can do multiple small applications repeatedly in one go, then move to the next.
This time I waited only 2-3 minutes at most before I went onto the next step, the SealAct solution, and the supplied white towel, which somewhat resembles a Handi-Wipe in texture.
A few drops, and started rubbing. I noted to get the best results, one should be looking from the side, to see the paint on the surface, and not to use too much SealAct solution, as too thick a film would mask the ability to clearly see the process. As the product was beginning to level, and the excess paint was starting to vanigh, I then lightened up on pressure, just letting the towel literally glide over the surface. I rubbed up and down, then side to side. Any hazing then, one then follows up with the Blue MF Towel supplied in the Kit.
I noted that complete coverage of the chip was ever so slightly lacking, and I believe White Paint may be one of the most difficult to hide-camoflage, as chips in a white finish generally look dark-black. That it is hard for a white paint to cover a black void.
So again, put on another fresh blue disposable glove, and set out again to repeat the process. Ahh, much better, and things were coming out quite nicely.
At that point, I decided to stop, and felt successful with my attempts. My thoughts were that at a later date, after the paint has cured, and dried fully, I could always again repeat the process if there were any chips that needed more paint to perfectly fill, and level.
On my 1997 Tahoe over the years, there were of course other chips that had been painted-repaired, albeit quite poorly, and this was with factory touch up paint, and the Langka Paint Touch Up System.
So, I tried a little experiment since I had plenty of time on hand.
One, was a small scrape-scratch on my driver's side Cal Vue Street Scene Side View Mirrors, and another horribly done job on a chip of the front edge of the hood.
The SealAct worked! While it took much more rubbing, and time, the Sealact was beginning to better level these old repair areas, some I estimate to be 5-12 years of age.
On the Side View Mirror, I was able to better level the Touch up with the SealAct much better than the Langka product ever could. From a foot away, I could no longer see the damage, or th evidence of a touch up, and this area was the worst on the vehicle.
So, that was one little discovery I made, the SealAct product will work on other types of Touch Up Paint. Removal of excess paint-blobs seems to take longer, but much better ease. Of course some of this paint has been on the vehicle a long long time, and of course is harder.
So, the SealAct it appears will work on basically all factory-store bought touch up paints. The advantage of Colorchip's Paint Formulas though are a speedy dry time, where one can do touch up in a much faster time frame.
After completion of the touch up at this point in time, with these more evident chips on the higher body panels, I removed the blue painter's tape, and I had a heck of a time re-finding where these chips once existed.
Another little tip I've found, is the little paint brushes, bottle, and cap had paint on them. I found soaking the brushes in Naptha (Lighter Fluid) will remove-dissolve the paint.
It is important to thoroughly wipe the threads on the glass paint bottle, and the inside threads of the cap with a paper towel, and naptha, because at a later date of useage, you may find the cap firmly bonded to the bottle.
Overall, I have to say in my findings, that the Dr Colorchip Touch Up System works very well, and versus Langka, I felt it was vastly superior.
In the past, I had noted Langka being much less forgiving, that with just a wipe or two, the touch up would be present, with still a blob, then one or two more wipes, and one would entirely wipe the paint from the chip. That Langka was much much harder to work with, and nowhere near as effective. Mark
Some weeks ago, some may remember an initial mismatch of paint hue I had gotten. Worked with Mr McCool, sent him a Duplicolor Bottle as a Sample, and the match appears as right as it ever could be.
Evidently it appeared, this color, Summit White has a couple different mix color "recipes" floating around out there.
So, yesterday, feeling I had gotten some experience with the product a few weeks ago on some inconspicuous areas, set out to address the few ultra tiny little chips on the Tahoe's Upper Panels, and Hood. Temps yesterday morning was 62F degrees, and calm.
Most of these chips that I could find are no bigger than a pin head, to pin head sized at the most.
I first examined the entire vehicle with a fine tooth comb, and then simply used a small piece of Blue Painter's Tape 2" above, or near the chips, so I knew exactly where to find them quickly. I felt this was important, because it did previously appear that the Colorchip paints need to be applied, and leveled rather quickly. Previous attempts at about a 10-12 minute dry time was not working as easily as it should, and had found difficulty leveling any excess.
After taping above-near all found chips, I then used an Auto Body Prep Solvent to clean the chip, for better bonding of paint.
I went back, and wiped dry any residues left behind.
With the smaller applicators in the kit, and rubber gloved hand, I walked around the truck, mimic'ing the Colorchip Vids, and this took only a matter of a couple minutes time, applying right to the chip, smearing, and moving onto the next.
I noted some weren't getting enough fill, but patience persisted, and found that one can do multiple small applications repeatedly in one go, then move to the next.
This time I waited only 2-3 minutes at most before I went onto the next step, the SealAct solution, and the supplied white towel, which somewhat resembles a Handi-Wipe in texture.
A few drops, and started rubbing. I noted to get the best results, one should be looking from the side, to see the paint on the surface, and not to use too much SealAct solution, as too thick a film would mask the ability to clearly see the process. As the product was beginning to level, and the excess paint was starting to vanigh, I then lightened up on pressure, just letting the towel literally glide over the surface. I rubbed up and down, then side to side. Any hazing then, one then follows up with the Blue MF Towel supplied in the Kit.
I noted that complete coverage of the chip was ever so slightly lacking, and I believe White Paint may be one of the most difficult to hide-camoflage, as chips in a white finish generally look dark-black. That it is hard for a white paint to cover a black void.
So again, put on another fresh blue disposable glove, and set out again to repeat the process. Ahh, much better, and things were coming out quite nicely.
At that point, I decided to stop, and felt successful with my attempts. My thoughts were that at a later date, after the paint has cured, and dried fully, I could always again repeat the process if there were any chips that needed more paint to perfectly fill, and level.
On my 1997 Tahoe over the years, there were of course other chips that had been painted-repaired, albeit quite poorly, and this was with factory touch up paint, and the Langka Paint Touch Up System.
So, I tried a little experiment since I had plenty of time on hand.
One, was a small scrape-scratch on my driver's side Cal Vue Street Scene Side View Mirrors, and another horribly done job on a chip of the front edge of the hood.
The SealAct worked! While it took much more rubbing, and time, the Sealact was beginning to better level these old repair areas, some I estimate to be 5-12 years of age.
On the Side View Mirror, I was able to better level the Touch up with the SealAct much better than the Langka product ever could. From a foot away, I could no longer see the damage, or th evidence of a touch up, and this area was the worst on the vehicle.
So, that was one little discovery I made, the SealAct product will work on other types of Touch Up Paint. Removal of excess paint-blobs seems to take longer, but much better ease. Of course some of this paint has been on the vehicle a long long time, and of course is harder.
So, the SealAct it appears will work on basically all factory-store bought touch up paints. The advantage of Colorchip's Paint Formulas though are a speedy dry time, where one can do touch up in a much faster time frame.
After completion of the touch up at this point in time, with these more evident chips on the higher body panels, I removed the blue painter's tape, and I had a heck of a time re-finding where these chips once existed.
Another little tip I've found, is the little paint brushes, bottle, and cap had paint on them. I found soaking the brushes in Naptha (Lighter Fluid) will remove-dissolve the paint.
It is important to thoroughly wipe the threads on the glass paint bottle, and the inside threads of the cap with a paper towel, and naptha, because at a later date of useage, you may find the cap firmly bonded to the bottle.
Overall, I have to say in my findings, that the Dr Colorchip Touch Up System works very well, and versus Langka, I felt it was vastly superior.
In the past, I had noted Langka being much less forgiving, that with just a wipe or two, the touch up would be present, with still a blob, then one or two more wipes, and one would entirely wipe the paint from the chip. That Langka was much much harder to work with, and nowhere near as effective. Mark
