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Super Member
Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure
Excuse my ignorance, but with wet sanding - do you actually sand the clear down to the paint, or there is some clear left after the sanding?!
Thanks
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Super Member
Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure
Originally Posted by Danube
Excuse my ignorance, but with wet sanding - do you actually sand the clear down to the paint, or there is some clear left after the sanding?!
Thanks
Well you never really want to sand down to the paint, need clear coat to protect the paint. When you wet sand you want to remove as little clear coat as possible. If you sand too much you will need to have that panel repainted.
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Super Member
Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure
Originally Posted by Danube
Excuse my ignorance, but with wet sanding - do you actually sand the clear down to the paint, or there is some clear left after the sanding?!
Thanks
What you are doing is leveling the paint you've applied. The goal is to remove as little of the surrounding area as you can. Let me know if I need to explain that more.
Originally Posted by Rix6
That is so kind. I really appreciate your comments!
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Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure
I have a keyed van. My wife's. Worse -she just bought it. I only own a PC 7424. If I tried this, would that be enough to buff out the sanding? Secondly - how hard is it to wet-sand? What's the amount of force required? Motion?
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Super Member
Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure
Originally Posted by washnwax
I have a keyed van. My wife's. Worse -she just bought it. I only own a PC 7424. If I tried this, would that be enough to buff out the sanding? Secondly - how hard is it to wet-sand? What's the amount of force required? Motion?
If you check several pages back in this thread, you'll see where Mike Phillips suggests against a PC. I am a diehard rotary user for correction, in combination with wool pads. The HUGE thing is to not generate heat. The PC just does not have the power to correct the area without getting it warm. Having said that, I've not used the mf correcting pads yet. The worst case scenario is that you'll use that with M105 and get it hot and pull the paint out of the scratch. Keep a spray bottle close by with cold water and check the surface temp often. It won't look any worse than it does now, so give it a try. Just make sure you finish with 3000 grit. You don't use much pressure at all to answer your question. Hope that helps.
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Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure
Thanks for the reply. I'm attaching what I'm dealing with. I tried cleaning it up with a PC7424XP, orange CCS, and WF TSR 3.0. I'll be checking out the sanding and buffing sections before I purchase any additional equipment. I just don't know if I could sand, then rely on my PC 7424 - it might take too long, causing heat build up. Is that true?
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Super Member
I know I just recently saw a post where someone polished out 3K sanding marks with the Meg's mf system. Let the paint dry for days. Then sand, then compound.
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Originally Posted by richy
I know I just recently saw a post where someone polished out 3K sanding marks with the Meg's mf system. Let the paint dry for days. Then sand, then compound.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I knocked out both 2000 and 3000 grit with d300/mf cutting disk on both hard and soft paint. Let me tell you though, it required some patience. M105/cyan ht pad was way faster but I imagine nothing like M105/wool on a rotary.
"Challenge yourself to live a better tomorrow than you did yesterday"
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Newbie Member
Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure
It looks fantastic, You are really providing a service with your posts. Keep it up......Thanks
Now when you used m105/205 did you just do the panels you wet sanded or the whole car. And are you using the same spray gun for thr permanon and the opti.
Thanks again
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