1944 Chevy car- Original paint

**BobbyG** · 07-23-2011, 05:53 PM

Originally Posted by dad07

Bobby beat me to it! The UC Mike refered to is Megs Ultimate Compound they also have Ultimate Polish which can be found just about anywhere.

When I was typing it I looked at it and thought something didn't look right....

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, not Ultimate Cut........

**SODA CRACKER** · 07-23-2011, 09:21 PM

Not sure when I will get it done. He is in no rush, he doesn't care if it is this winter or next year, so I will wait till the rush is over then I will take my time at it and have some fun doing it. I never really have worked much with single stage paint and never anything this ancient. So I thought I would get myself a little educated on the project first.

**Hoytman** · 07-23-2011, 10:11 PM

This is from a newb so, take it for what it's worth...but I think if you study my comments they'll be worth alot to you.

Take some time and read Mike Phillip's comments on this thread, and every link to other threads he's linked you to here. Read them, study them, and just like the Meguire's #7 give them a chance to soak in. Heck, I'm sure Mr. Phillip's would be happy to touch base with you via PM, or even on this thread if you have questions and/or concerns...pick his brain apart. He won't lead you wrong, and if you do what he suggests, to the "T", that ol' 55 will look bran-spank'n new. Like he says, it ain't braggin' if you can back it up.

You will do well if you let his comments sink in, just like ol' #7. Can't wait to see it when it's done. Just like the owner, don't be in a hurry. This car deserves some TLC.

Bill

**C. Charles Hahn** · 07-23-2011, 10:33 PM

Originally Posted by Hoytman

This is from a newb so, take it for what it's worth...but I think if you study my comments they'll be worth alot to you.

Take some time and read Mike Phillip's comments on this thread, and every link to other threads he's linked you to here. Read them, study them, and just like the Meguire's #7 give them a chance to soak in. Heck, I'm sure Mr. Phillip's would be happy to touch base with you via PM, or even on this thread if you have questions and/or concerns...pick his brain apart. He won't lead you wrong, and if you do what he suggests, to the "T", that ol' 55 will look bran-spank'n new. Like he says, it ain't braggin' if you can back it up.

You will do well if you let his comments sink in, just like ol' #7. Can't wait to see it when it's done. Just like the owner, don't be in a hurry. This car deserves some TLC.

Bill

Especially since this is a car with all original paint in what appears to be very restorable condition, the last thing you want to do is get too aggressive on it too quickly -- the risk of damaging/destroying the original finish is far too high if handled improperly.

I'd venture there aren't too many '55s around in that kind of shape anymore so treat it with the utmost care and respect and I'm sure it will respond in kind!

**V3AutoDetailing** · 07-23-2011, 11:45 PM

The 55 i just did was alot of fun to work on, Some very tight spots when you get arounf the lights abd bumbers. Long sweeping body lines.

**Kristopher1129** · 07-24-2011, 01:00 AM

Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek

Here's something I've never tried but I think it would work, apply the #7 using a DA Polisher and either a Surbuf pad or a Microfiber pad. The fibers would act like rubbing the paint with terry cloth. Just use a nice slow arm speed and be ready to clean your pad often.

The hit it with UC and polishing pad or cutting pad, I'd test the polishing pad just to be careful if it works go with it, if not using the cutting pad. Then polish and seal.

It's funny you say that...cause this is what I do with old single stage paint. I use the MF finishing pad and some #7. I lay it on real thick and go over each panel slowly. Be sure you clean that pad often. I do not wipe the panel clean afterwards. Let it sit.

Once that is done, I go over it by hand. I find it easier to rid yourself of the hard scrubbing you'd have to do by hand the first time around by using the DA.

The by hand coating at this point should go pretty smoothly, and allow you to leave a nice thick layer of #7. Once that's done I let it sit for the night (if you can).

Then, wipe it down. At this point, I sometimes polish...but it really depends on the condition of the paint. Sometimes it's best to go straight to LSP and not risk anything. When you're dealing with something like original 1944 paint. I would go straight to LSP personally. You just never know what's been done to the paint before you got your hands on it.

Is it really worth running a test spot with compound just to find out it's super thin and you went right through? Probably not. And if you did go through...that really depreciates the value of the car to have to respray. Play it safe...the owner will thank you.

I know Mike said pretty much the same thing...but even though it's Mike, it never hurts to hear the same advice twice! lol

**skipper1** · 07-24-2011, 06:13 AM

This is where a PTG should come in.

Mike Phillips · 07-24-2011, 07:27 AM

This is the type of detailing project that I wrote this article for...

The power in the after shots is created in the before shots

If the paint can be saved, then the most powerful shot is an overhead shot of the hood before someone rubs a shiny spot smack dab in the middle of it to see if it can be fixed.

It's sometimes kind of fun to do one of these,

The Reverse Test Spot

Stephan aka LuxuryMobile did the Reverse Test Spot in this thread,

1970 GMC Stepside Pickup

Mike Phillips · 08-07-2014, 10:17 AM

Originally Posted by SODA CRACKER

Not sure when I will get it done. He is in no rush, he doesn't care if it is this winter or next year, so I will wait till the rush is over then I will take my time at it and have some fun doing it.

I never really have worked much with single stage paint and never anything this ancient. So I thought I would get myself a little educated on the project first.

Whatever happened to this project?