Understanding headlamp repair

[Lasthope05]

I see where you are coming from but I have to ask - what is your stance on Opti-Coat?

Barry, I have no intentions of hijacking this thread. Like I said before, this is excellent information that I'm certain someone will put to use.

Opti-coat(guard/2.0, gtechniq C1, etc) seems like a viable option. Though I have no experience with the coatings and their reaction ability to fully bond to polycarbonate plastics as their main design was to adhere to automotive polyurethane paint, the reviews of them make them look very promising. I have been following optimum opti-coat before it was even released when it was dubbed "Product X". I have no doubts in its durability nor the other coatings, as I too have been following them when they were first released in the UK, but I cant guarantee or warranty the new coatings unless I've done my own testing.

[Kaban]

This is really good info.

Now the question EVERYBODY wants to know is:

Where can you buy the clearcoat?

And something I'd like to know...after sanding with 1500 grit, and clearing the lenses, are the 1500 scratches eliminated completely or are they still visible? Do you wetsand the clearcoat afterwards if there are slight paint runs when using a regular aerosol can?

[A.P.A.D.]

i would love to see someone who knows what they are doing, create a walkthrough video on how to do this correctly. i am def a visual/hands on guy, and would like to see each step being done by a pro at this "correct" method. this would def build me confidence when switching over to this method(from the compound/polish method). the theory of this method sound great, i just wish to see it in video form.

of course, this video would take valuable time to create, so i understand if it cant be done, just saying it would be really awesome.

[A.P.A.D.]

with that being said, Barry did a great job with the picture tutorial. hats off for taking the time to do that! thanks for your time to share your knowledge and skill.

[Lasthope05]

There is nothing really to it. Just sand as you normally would and instead of buffing you just apply a clear coat over top. There are videos on youtube about this. You just have to wade through all the cut and buff ones.

Heres a video of a company that sells a wipe on clear.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzfGE-jWqZE]YouTube - Headlight Restoration by Delta Kits[/video]

Spray on-

[A.P.A.D.]

thanks Alan. i just didnt want to jump on youtube and look since alot of people up there show their slash jobs. you know.

[93fox]

The one I use (SEM 1k HS Clear) is dry to the touch and can be handled in 1 hour. I also place the halogens next to the headlights to make it dry slightly faster but dont try to force dry it as you will get fish eyes and bubbles in the paint. Full cure time would be about 12-24 hours just like sealants. It needs time to fully out gas.



I have never used the furniture clear technique so I wouldnt be comfortable with doing it for customers. Im sure it might work fine for a while but coming from an auto body repair background, applying a clear to a smooth polished surface doesnt sit well with me.

Yea i completely agree with you. I paint cars and have done a bunch of headlights and we both know that clearing them is the only cortect way of protecting them. But some peoples jaws drop when i tell em $120 for the headlights, they think i use spray cans. Witch i dont, i use ppg 2021 and 2002. So them i tell them that for $40 i can do it too but it wont be a permanent finish. This is when the furniture clear comes in, and some just love the fact about $40 knowing it wont last a long time. Like i said, people get what they pay for!

[C. Charles Hahn]

Charlie,

Is this the same thing?

Amazon.com: USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol: Automotive

Nope, what I use for small parts like headlights is 1K Acrylic Clear Coat:

Spray Max SprayMax® 1K Clearcoat Aerosol 10.6oz

Here's the MSDS sheet for it, which actually specifically says the paint is "UV resistant"

http://www.uschem.com/products/docs/CE_MSDS_3680058.pdf

[Barry Theal]

Yea i completely agree with you. I paint cars and have done a bunch of headlights and we both know that clearing them is the only cortect way of protecting them. But some peoples jaws drop when i tell em $120 for the headlights, they think i use spray cans. Witch i dont, i use ppg 2021 and 2002. So them i tell them that for $40 i can do it too but it wont be a permanent finish. This is when the furniture clear comes in, and some just love the fact about $40 knowing it wont last a long time. Like i said, people get what they pay for!

IMO one of the biggest things about being a professional detailer is properly educating a customer/client on how to maintain a proper finish. Whether its paint or plastic as in this case. I think if you educate them on the saftey issues of this process they won't think twice about the money.

[93fox]

IMO one of the biggest things about being a professional detailer is properly educating a customer/client on how to maintain a proper finish. Whether its paint or plastic as in this case. I think if you educate them on the saftey issues of this process they won't think twice about the money.

Barry, i do that all the time. Some people actually listen and understand and they actually pay for the proper job. Others are just so hard headed. Most of the hard headed ones always tell me comments like "well i think its too expensive for headlights" or "im not even going to keep this car" so a quicker much cheaper method seems to be what they like.