Understanding headlamp repair

**sohail99** · 03-31-2011, 05:57 AM

I have a aerosol can of automotive 'Acrylic laquer'. I never tried it on plastics though!

btw after spraying clear, is there a need to sand, refinish to flatten out the clear?

**Setec Astronomy** · 03-31-2011, 06:11 AM

Originally Posted by sohail99

I have a aerosol can of automotive 'Acrylic laquer'. I never tried it on plastics though!

I'd be careful with that...I did a wheel repair and finished it with some clear "high performance wheel coating" which proceeded to yellow over time. If I had known at the time I could get the 2K in a can I would have done it. Just use a proper respirator if you're going to spray the 2K.

**SeaJay's** · 03-31-2011, 07:08 AM

Nice info Barry, thanks for the write up. Also, thanks for all the follow up posts. Answered all my questions that I had.

**WRAPT C5Z06** · 03-31-2011, 08:41 AM

Originally Posted by Shiny Lil Detlr

You can get 1K clear at most auto parts stores, as well as both 1K and 2K clears from any local PBE distributor. One of my favorite clears is sold under the brand "SprayMAX." I pick it up at Finishmaster locally.

Charlie,

Is this the same thing?

Amazon.com: USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol: Automotive

**LegacyGT** · 03-31-2011, 09:40 AM

This is awesome information, subscribed

**Gurge** · 03-31-2011, 10:22 AM

great info

for the guys already using the 1k & 2k clear coats, whats the cure time? as in when can the car be driven. some of the descriptions on these products say 12 hour cure time

also, any 'wipe on' alternative to the aerosol? (opti coat i guess is an option) I work outside pretty often and with the wind on some days I wouldn't dare spray any paint

**93fox** · 03-31-2011, 12:05 PM

Originally Posted by Lasthope05

Excellent thread Barry. Now people can finally see a true headlight restoration and not just sanding, buffing, and applying furniture clear on it. I've been preaching and doing it this way for a while now only with sanding up to 800gt and using a 1k clear vs a 2k.

People dont understand that you need a rough sanded surface, not a smooth polished one, for the clearcoat to adhere properly.

You are right about saying this is the correct way of doing it. Clearing them will last a really long time, i know this since i smoke out headlights and tailights this way too. But you have to understand that not everyone out there is willing to pay for a job
Done correctly this way. And thats when the "furniture clear" comes in. If they are willing to pay for something cheaper then you can use the uv sealent trick. Remeber, you get what you pay for.

**rwright** · 03-31-2011, 12:41 PM

Originally Posted by 93fox

You are right about saying this is the correct way of doing it. Clearing them will last a really long time, i know this since i smoke out headlights and tailights this way too. But you have to understand that not everyone out there is willing to pay for a job
Done correctly this way. And thats when the "furniture clear" comes in. If they are willing to pay for something cheaper then you can use the uv sealent trick. Remeber, you get what you pay for.

Are you offering a warranty with your furniture clear? Do you know how long the furniture clear lasts? I'm curious.

On a side note, looks like we have a new test to run - furniture clear, UV coating, Opti-Coat. Who wants to be the one?

**Lasthope05** · 03-31-2011, 02:18 PM

Originally Posted by Gurge

great info

for the guys already using the 1k & 2k clear coats, whats the cure time? as in when can the car be driven. some of the descriptions on these products say 12 hour cure time

also, any 'wipe on' alternative to the aerosol? (opti coat i guess is an option) I work outside pretty often and with the wind on some days I wouldn't dare spray any paint

The one I use (SEM 1k HS Clear) is dry to the touch and can be handled in 1 hour. I also place the halogens next to the headlights to make it dry slightly faster but dont try to force dry it as you will get fish eyes and bubbles in the paint. Full cure time would be about 12-24 hours just like sealants. It needs time to fully out gas.

Originally Posted by 93fox

You are right about saying this is the correct way of doing it. Clearing them will last a really long time, i know this since i smoke out headlights and tailights this way too. But you have to understand that not everyone out there is willing to pay for a job
Done correctly this way. And thats when the "furniture clear" comes in. If they are willing to pay for something cheaper then you can use the uv sealent trick. Remeber, you get what you pay for.

I have never used the furniture clear technique so I wouldnt be comfortable with doing it for customers. Im sure it might work fine for a while but coming from an auto body repair background, applying a clear to a smooth polished surface doesnt sit well with me.

**rwright** · 03-31-2011, 02:27 PM

Originally Posted by Lasthope05

Im sure it might work fine for a while but coming from an auto body repair background, applying a clear to a smooth polished surface doesnt sit well with me.

I see where you are coming from but I have to ask - what is your stance on Opti-Coat?

Barry, I have no intentions of hijacking this thread. Like I said before, this is excellent information that I'm certain someone will put to use.