Removing Orange Peel & Sanding Marks with the Griots ROP and the Wolfgang Twins

[jamores23]

mike when you say dont sand up to the edges what do you mean?

[Matt S.]

mike when you say dont sand up to the edges what do you mean?

Scroll down to post 5 here - http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-phillips.html

Notice how all the edges / high points are taped off...these areas tend to have thinner paint and can be subject to higher levels of pressure when sanding, so it's best to avoid them / mask them off.

[jamores23]

ok i get it, but what happens to the edges that need to be sanded/compound/polished? wont there be a few marks on the edges?

[Mike Phillips]

ok i get it, but what happens to the edges that need to be sanded/compound/polished? wont there be a few marks on the edges?

You hand compound and polish close to hard or sharp edges. It's called perfectionist detailing.

If it's your own time then you can pour your heart and soul into it. If you're sanding and buffing on someone else's car make sure they're willing to pay for perfectionist detailing because it's also time consuming.

[-Longhorn-]

Absolutely amazing write up. Hands down best I have ever read from Mike. Bravo.

[Mike Phillips]

Absolutely amazing write up. Hands down best I have ever read from Mike. Bravo.

Thanks, it was really a complicated project to document and then write-up...

Of course in the normal world, most people doing any type of wetsanding would use a rotary buffer with wool pad and an aggressive compound to remove their sanding marks.

I simply demonstrated what could be done using tools a lot of people already own.

[55resto]

Mike , This is THE best article I have ever read !

You tell how...you tell what product ... what tool ... everything to steer a guy in the right direction.

This is almost as good as being in school ... your school . If I had seen this information a few years ago, it would have saved me hundreds of hours and dollars .


Thank you !

[Mike Phillips]

Mike , This is THE best article I have ever read !

You tell how...you tell what product ... what tool ... everything to steer a guy in the right direction.

This is almost as good as being in school ... your school . If I had seen this information a few years ago, it would have saved me hundreds of hours and dollars .

Thank you !

Thank you. I try to write all my articles so a person can read through them and then go out into their garage and duplicate the techniques and procedures to their own car and be successful.

[StuDLei]

This wouldn't be considered rocket science either, but what's your opinion here Mike:

I see that you removed about .1 mils of paint in your swirl remover step with a yellow pad. Would it be fair to say that 105 and an orange pad would remove about the same amount of paint?

If you do in fact remove about .1 mils of paint in a compounding process, and you can safely remove .5 mils, would it be fair to say as a rough estimate that you could 105/205 your car about five times in its life?

Everyone always wants to know how many times you can buff your car before you should start worrying, at least newbies like myself, so I wondered what your thoughts were on this?

Thanks.

[Countersteer46]

A couple people have already said it, this is the best article on AG in my opinion!

This one is a close second:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ge-paints.html

A couple questions, if I could. First, I don't believe I've come across in these articles a recommendation for pressure or force for wet sanding. I was wondering how much force you would use on the pad? Also, would it change for different grits?

Secondly, as mentioned by Mike, these results are amazing for a yellow foam pad and a Swirl Remover. If I were to also be wet sanding factory paint that would be finished with 3000 grit, then compounded with a rotary, wool pad and 3M perfect it 06085, could I try to switch to a DA on the second correction step? Thanks for the info!