BFWD + GuraGloss 601 Bonding Agent, Will they Mix?

[Shortspark]

Of course you should try and experiment with things - all sorts of things. A few weeks ago I put one ounce each of the following products in a 32 oz. spray bottle in order to try to come up with the finest QD/Topper type product the world has ever known:
AquaWax
Meguiars Final Touch
Lucas Slick Mist
CG V7
Meguiars UQW
CG Speed Wipe
OCW
Griot's Spray-On Wax
PB Spray and Gloss
Klasse Sealant Glaze
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant Spritz
Griot's Speed Shine
Meguiars Quick Detailer Mist
1Z Einszett Spray Wax
Duragloss Bug Remover
Protectent 303
Meguiars ScratchX
Collinite 845
ONR
Sonax Brilliant Shine
CG Citrus Clear
Griots Car Wash 11102
Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo
White Vinegar
3 shots of Amaretto Liqueur (for my favorite scent!)

I had achieved perfection! A home brew for the ages! This was the greatest "topper" type product ever to hit car paint!! Cleaned well, spread and buffed easily, nice gloss but with wonderful depth - and that terrific smell - yes, you could smell the Amaretto! I figured protection would be great too, maybe even putting coatings out of business.

I saw dollar signs everywhere I turned and looked with big bucks just floating down from the heavens. And fantasized I would soon be retiring on a par 3 at Pebble Beach! All I had to do was get a trademark and patent (and figure out a way to hide the formula from the people whose products I used) and success was assured!

Then I tried Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+, mixed just 1/2 ounce to 22 ounces of distilled water. My dreams came tumbling down. Perfection in a detailing product had already been invented!

[Dogfather]

Duragloss formulates the chemicals for their products and they're designed to work in conjunction with or be compatible within their own family. Whether the chemicals in BlackFire products are compatible is anyone's guess but I can't see where any harm could come from testing them....

I believe 601 is compatible with any polymer sealant. I assumed mixing it with BFWD would increase durability but not have any effect on appearance. Now I see stated on the DG site that 601 is for "added durability AND gloss".
Maybe not such a crazy idea after all.

[Klasse Act]

Yeah I see nothing wrong with trying it out but keep this in mind, once #601 is used its good for 12 hrs before its no good, so maybe time things out accordingly.

[RPPM]

This has been posted somewhere else, don't remember where, but according to DG, this only works with their german sourced polymers. So unless the products have the same polymer, you are probably just wasting product.

[RPPM]

Also, I have used the 501/601, or 105/601 mixture 2 or 3 months later, absolutely no degradation after that time. Richy has also confirmed this in one of his posts.

[RTexasF]

Guragloss? I love it! Go for it Frankengloss.

[expdetailing]

Shortspark, that was very funny. I actually laughed out loud.
Well, the Yukon, who belongs to my brother-in-law, wooped my butt today.
I went to his house with a brand new flex 3401 and a rupes 21. I've never used either of these before. I thought I would like the rupes more, but I wound-up using the flex a lot more than the rupes. If the next use of the rupes goes like today's experience, it'll be for sale.
Anyways, as it stands, the sealant(s) are going to sit overnight on the paint before being buffed off. On the hood, I laid down duragloss bonding agent topped with bfwd, and the other half is 4starupp. I thought i ran out of 4star. I was ecstatic to see an almost empty bottle.
I will be posting pictures of the results.
The yukon was jacked up. My brother in law said it had shi!!y dupont clear coat on it (he works for ppg). It was soft clear, corrected fast, but needed a lot of correcting. I mostly used fg400 and some hd cut here and there.
The rupes, with a blue coarse pad, didn't like the water based hd cut. It powdered so bad, it was like it was snowing. The rupes polish powdered a lot too. I think the poures are so big in the pad that the huge 21mm swing quickly dries the compound. The rupes didn't have any stalling issues on curves. The flex is my new best friend; coupled with 5'' lc hybrid pads it dealt with the yukon in an authoritative manner. I'll keep everyone posted on the results. I'm sure everyone's biting their nails.

[expdetailing]

Well guys,
I said I would keep everyone posted, but this post will be anticlimatic because I took pictures and will not post them unless I am asked to. The camera view does not do any justice. It wouldn't be worth while.
I buffed the hood, one half was BFWD, and the other side was BFWD on top of DuraGloss Bonding Agent. After buffing, both sides looked the same to me. Then I decided to put blackice over the bfwd, and put klasse sealant over the DG/BFWD side. After buffing, the blackice side looked slightly muted compared to the klasse side. The class side started to appear as is there was some sort of orange peel effect going on, kind of wavy-ish. Then I put collinite 915 on bfwd next to the blackice, and I could not distinguish a difference between the two waxes.
After seeing what adding the blackice over the bfwd looks like, I decided not to wax the rest of the denali (it's not a yukon as I said it was earlier). Visually speaking, I did not see any real difference to justify waxing the rest of the truck.
After buffing the too thick-of-a-coat of four star off the entire vehicle that I put on last night, I noticed how fast sealant can build up as powder being spread arround as you buff. This turns into a game of chasing dust. I feel it's avoidable and time consuming, which leads to frustration for me. Furthermore, the rupes with a 6'' course pad dusted like crazy yesterday. I was fighting dust all day today because of the rupes and the heavy coat of dried sealant. It took me 9 hours to clean every rim (barrrels included (twice)), polish and seal the faces, buff the sealant off the paint, deep clean the carpet, clean and protect the interior, and I still didn't even get to the door jambs properly. Just a quick spray down w/ 303 on the jambs and weather stripping. Then, as the sun was almost gone, I was franticly walking around the car w/ a quick detailer trying desperatley to erase finger prints and such because I knew this was my last day with this truck. There would be no tomorrow to finish the last details that make all the difference, at least to me anyways.
After two days with the denali by myself, and it still not being finished to my satisfaction, I am demotivated. This is my 3rd detail. I severly underestimated this detail. I hate trying to quickly finish. I know as soon as the sun rises tomorrow morning, there will be streaks, dust, and smudges here and there all to be seen.

[RPPM]

Hang in there, it gets better, and you are gaining experience. I find it is better to layer within product families. For instance, Black Ice over BFWD, or DG 105 over 501, or Klasse SG over Klasse AIO. I might toss a wax from one company over another company's sealant, but generally don't mix sealants from different companies. For instance one of my favorites is Poorboys PwS to clean and prep the paint as well as provide a base coat of protection. I follow this up with a coat of Collinite 845. Then a week later after the next wash, I'll throw a 2nd coat of 845 and be done.

I would try some DG 501/601 mixed at 4:1 ratio to clean the paint, then follow up with DG 105/601 at the same 4:1 ratio as my LSP. I would then throw on a 2nd coat 24 hours later. Maintain with DG FC&S after each wash, and use DG AW once a month. You should be set for 6 months if you follow that weekly.

[The Critic]

It sounds to me that you did not spend your time very efficiently. You could've spent about the same amount of time (probably less) and have received equally good correction, but with a longer lasting product (coating).