Problem working with Meguiar's M105 Ultra Compound?

[nabisco shine]

mr PHILLAPS thank you again for taking the time to write this post i will try to avoid the cutting pad and use a megs w8006 pad thanks again

[ph16]

Ph16 are you using a da or a rotary?

DA and M105 on a 6" white CCS pad, M205 on a 6" black/gray CCS pad.

[Mike Phillips]

Just found this thread and am wondering, where can I get some more info on how M105 was designed to work? I did the tailgate of the truck as a test and I was amazed at how quickly it dried/dusted. Eventually I was adding distilled water which after reading this entire thread to this point, seems to be counter-productive. Even though it dried quickly, after finishing with 205 (which is a dream to work with), most of the swirls were eradicated. I'm not giving up on M105 because I've only had like 5 passes with it but I was wondering if my problem was with my choice of priming product (started out with Pinnacle pad conditioner and then moved to distilled water). Any links regarding M105 to educate myself? Everything in my arsenal is Menz except for the M105/M205 that I recently tried.

DA and M105 on a 6" white CCS pad, M205 on a 6" black/gray CCS pad.

Maybe read through what I posted for the OP, (OP stands for the "Original Poster" or the guy that started the thread).

The reason you like M205 is because it has a loooong buffing cycle and easy wipe off, this is the opposite reason of why you and others dislike M105, shot buffing cycle.

• Work in the shade on a cool surface
• Shrink the size of your work area down

You want AMPLE amount of product when first starting out because you pad is dry and some of the product is going to seep into the pad leaving less on the surface to LUBRICATE and ABRADE the paint.

So a good rule of thumb that has worked for THOUSANDS of people over the decades is st start out with either a Circle Pattern or X Pattern of product on the face of your pad. I tend to prefer a Circle pattern as a habit because as you work around the car you'll find that your product will migrate to the center on it's own, so I don't help it by using an X pattern.







Spread the product out over the entire face of the pad
Another great method is to borrow from Kevin Brown's Method and that is to take your finger and spread the product out over then entire face of the pad so that when you first turn the polisher on the entire face of the pad is working for you.


I find from years of experience that by the time you do 2-3 "X-Patterns" or 2-3 "Circle-Patterns" and then simply go to work ALWAYS spreading your product out over the area you're going to work IMMEDIATELY, then in essence by the 2nd to 3rd time you do this the entire face of your pad is wet with product and you accomplish the same thing, (more or less), just by making sure that with each fresh application of product you spread it out over the area you're going to work before slowing down and making your "Section Passes".

In fact if you buff out 2 - 3 sections and turn your buffing pad over you'll see the entire working face is equally damp with used product...

It's when you spread the product out quickly over the area you're going to work that you spread out and leave behind on the surface of layer of un-used product that you then pick up as you begin to work the area that helps to ensure that the entire face of your buffing pad becomes wet with product.

Bad technique would to to place some product on the face of your pad, place the face of you pad against the paint and then turn the polisher on and start moving the polisher slowly making over lapping passes. The problem is you'll push a lot of that product up into your pad and you'll do most of the correcting at the beginning and less towards the end of the section you're buffing. So first, spread the product out quickly and then slow your arm speed down and start making overlapping passes.


After your pad is broken in with product, clean your pad after each section pass and when you apply fresh product you can cut down on the amount of product you actually apply to the face of your pad. Someone in this thread said 3-4 dime size drops, I usually place about a 2/3rds circle pattern to the outer face of my buffing pad and get back to work. Remember you want enough product on the surface so you have,

A) Abrasives working for you
B) A lubricating film keeping and maintaining a wet film between the paint and your pad.


Often times if you don't have enough product you'll end up buffing to a dry buff and when you lose lubrication what increases? Friction.


Hope this helps...

[ph16]

Thank you Mike. I only had time to skim-read your reply earlier and am waiting for after work to read it thoroughly.

Just like when I tried Menz products for the first time I initially had issues with using them and now that I've worked on my technique and gathered more info on how to use them efficiently, I have no issues with them and am not afraid to use them at all.

Since I'm so new to M105 (only did 5 passes with it), I'm suspecting my technique again and how to use them so that I can minimize the issues I'm experiencing. I place 100% of the dissatisfaction with what I AM DOING not the product itself.

Thank you so much for the input, info, how-to's and replies. I'm going to read them in detail when I get home.

[BobbyG]

Thanks for the tip...

I just finished watching the Video of the new Optimum Hyper Polish Spray Compound... and it almost looks too good to be true.

Does anybody out there think that the Optimum Hyper Polish Spray is a good replacement for the woes of M105 ?

Dean,

I was thinking along those same lines.

I think it's fair to say that allot of us here are hobbyists or lets say "professionals in training". We tend to follow allot of the guidelines set forth by those more experienced and due to this we sometimes run into trouble because of that lacking. The more we use these products the more we understand how they're supposed to work but most of us are not up against the clock and our time is not necessarily money.

I watched Mike Phillips demonstrating the Optimum Hyper Polish Spray and I too was impressed. Naturally I was impressed with the final results but more impressed with how easy it was to use. It did take longer than Meguiar's M105 however in my opinion that may not be a bad thing more most of us, or at least me!

I'm going to give the Optimum Hyper Polish Spray a try and see if it works as easily and as well as shown. While it may not be "better" than Meguiar's M105 it just might be better for me..

[Da Fats]

Dean,

I was thinking along those same lines.

I think it's fair to say that allot of us here are hobbyists or lets say "professionals in training". We tend to follow allot of the guidelines set forth by those more experienced and due to this we sometimes run into trouble because of that lacking. The more we use these products the more we understand how they're supposed to work but most of us are not up against the clock and our time is not necessarily money.

I watched Mike Phillips demonstrating the Optimum Hyper Polish Spray and I too was impressed. Naturally I was impressed with the final results but more impressed with how easy it was to use. It did take longer than Meguiar's M105 however in my opinion that may not be a bad thing more most of us, or at least me!

I'm going to give the Optimum Hyper Polish Spray a try and see if it works as easily and as well as shown. While it may not be "better" than Meguiar's M105 it just might be better for me..

they make a hyper compound spray also that will get you closer to 105 in terms of cut but not quite there from wait i have read