Flex 3401 to replace PC 7336

**09TSX** · 07-17-2010, 05:40 PM

Just ordered the Flex XC3401 Intro Kit with the free bag along with the Grit Guard pad washer, six pack of 6" Kompressor pads, Menz SIP, SF Nano, 85RD, Wolfgang Sealant, FK 425 and a Daytona wheel brush.

I've had the 7336 for 10-15 years. Originally purchased through Griots. It could put down a nice shine on my cars, but could never really remove scratches. I've tried 4" CCS with the 3.5" backplate with no luck. Hoping the Flex will do what the PC would not.

The other day while at work a commercial truck parked next to me and someone scraped the side of my car in a couple of places. I couldn't tell you how pissed I was. When I got home I looked through my cupboard and found a bottle of Intensive Polish which was sent as a gift with a prior order and decided to give it a try. Why do they say you can't remove scratches by hand. I must have spent 30 seconds and have not been able to find any scratches since. This stuff was incredible. I was so impressed by what the IP could do by hand that I want to do my SUV now, but not with the PC and not by hand. Time for something with a little more balls. 7336 was great for sealant, wax and light scratches, but that was about all.

Granted the Griots and the Megs might be able to do what I want, but I want something a little quicker and a good track record. I now know where my birthday money is going.

I can't wait to give the Flex a try, but not in this heat and humidity. I hope all you professional detailers have air conditioned garages this summer.

Many thanks for all your inputs. It's made my purchase much easier. Great forum.

**ScottB** · 07-17-2010, 07:29 PM

your gonna love the Flex ....

**CEE DOG** · 07-17-2010, 07:52 PM

Congrats! You're going to love it!

**Mindflux** · 07-17-2010, 07:54 PM

Be sure to keep the 7336 for 4" pads and tighter spots the flex can't handle.

**09TSX** · 07-18-2010, 04:54 AM

Originally Posted by Mindflux

Be sure to keep the 7336 for 4" pads and tighter spots the flex can't handle.

Those tighter spots would it be quicker to just do them by hand? I also order a pair of Wolfgang Polish and Wax applicators which are orange on one side and black on the other.

I can't tell you how helpful the net is on detailing for the novice. There is a wealth of knowledge watching all the videos. Hell, I never cleaned my pads even when I polished my MDX. They were pretty grody by the time I got to the end, especially if you bumped into something rubber. Hopefully, the Grit Guard Pad Washer will keep me from constantly changing pads. Will the pads be dry enough just to continue to the next panel?

I never knew to use painters tape to keep the polish and wax off the rubber and plastic. The moldings were always discolored making that much more work.

Living on a dirt road I think I will just try using the Wolfgang sealant and FK 425 after each wash and see if that reduces my dirt adhesion. I had always waxed on top of EX sealant in the past. The FK 425 did great but I think the wax underneath always attracted the dust.

So how does one go about "jeweling" the paint? Do I use the RD85 with a gold pad and just go till it dissolves? I want to get a shine that really stands out from all the rest of the cars on the road.

**Mindflux** · 07-18-2010, 10:30 AM

The 7336 does amazingly well with 4" and even 5.5" pads. You'll get into those tight spots (like A/B pillars) real easy with 4" pads and the 7336. I'd hold onto it just for spots like that, and no it would still be quicker by machine.

As far as the pad being dry enough to re use after pad washing it I think in general probably not. I try and do the car (and use as many pads as it takes/I have) and then clean the pads and let them dry. I know this isn't ideal for someone starting out so you may as well use the pad cleaner and then follow the instructions and lift it up off the grit guard mechanism and let it 'shake' the pad dry. Then try using it on your next panel.

Jeweling is using a real soft pad and a fine polish 85RD is great for this. Just use it at a slow speed and work it in. It won't really 'dissolve' though, you'll have to follow up with a soft towel to remove any residue.

I hate to crosslink to another board but read http://www.autopia.org/forum/showthr...=1#post1290833 this post for more on jeweling.

Jeweling is also known as burnishing if you chose to search the subject and don't necessarily find enough with the keyword 'jeweling'.

**dvc61** · 07-18-2010, 11:41 AM

I agree! You are going to love that new Flex. I just started using it last week and it already is my favorite tool. It is replacing the Cyclo for me. I will still use the cyclo for tight spots and for carpets (with the brushes).
The level of finish that it brings in a short amount of time is amazing. All that and no holograms! A little harded to use than the Cyclo at first but I'm sure that will pass in short order. Good luck with your new friend.

**BobbyG** · 07-19-2010, 10:45 AM

You really know how to make your PC feel bad don't ya!

You are going to love it! My PC is now in charge of using 4" pads for tight areas and applying sealants and waxes only now that I have a Flex.

**mtnbiker** · 07-19-2010, 07:52 PM

Has anyone tried the light weight 3403 or have any comments on it?
Is it that much easier & lighter? What about power?

**rwisejr** · 07-19-2010, 09:38 PM

Has anyone tried the light weight 3403 or have any comments on it?
Is it that much easie r & lighter? What about power?

The 3403 is an awesome machine very light weight . But it is a rotary . So it has a different learning curve. I have and use both
.

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