is a flex 3401 good for a beginner???

[CEE DOG]

Go with the Flex. You won't regret it. I am new as well to machine polishing. I decided to go with the Flex as my first machine. I didn't want to get the PC and wish I had gone with the Flex.

I used it for the first time this past weekend. I had no problem using it what so ever. I'll admit that I was intimidated to use it at first but once I got going with it I felt right at home with it. I used it on a Mazda MX-5 (small sized car) and I really didn't have any problem with the 6.5" pads. I just made sure I taped off areas I didn't want to touch and was careful in tight areas.

It is more expensive but if you can afford it, get it. It's easy to use and you won't be disappointed.

Jimmers is right on

[CEE DOG]

The Flex will try to control/wander from you when polishing NON flat panels, just be aware of that. Only being able to use 6.5" pads sucks if you don't have another DA. It's a solid machine, but has it's drawbacks, IMO. I just sold my Flex 3401. I like the new version Griot's DA better..

You can use 5.5 or 6" pads as well or you could use the edge system as well if I'm not mistaken.
For me I use the LC pads with my Flex and I have a little 3" GG polisher for the tight areas.

OP: Originally I was intimidated by the Flex and also didn't want to spend the money. Bought the Griots. It stopped working on me and the wonferfull people at AG (Dwayne) was extremely helfull in taking care of it in an exchange for another GG. He also talked with me and was very patient with my questions about the Flex. I ended up replacing it with the Flex and MAN am I ever glad I did! It runs so smooth! It's night and day compared to the vibration of the Griots. Z is correct about the pad drawbacks but it doesn't matter for a second to me. My 3" polisher will get into all the places I need it to.. More places then a PC or regular GG with any size pad will get into. + its more convenient imo.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

You can use 5.5 or 6" pads as well or you could use the edge system as well if I'm not mistaken.
For me I use the LC pads with my Flex and I have a little 3" GG polisher for the tight areas.

OP: Originally I was intimidated by the Flex and also didn't want to spend the money. Bought the Griots. It stopped working on me and the wonferfull people at AG (Dwayne) was extremely helfull in taking care of it in an exchange for another GG. He also talked with me and was very patient with my questions about the Flex. I ended up replacing it with the Flex and MAN am I ever glad I did! It runs so smooth! It's night and day compared to the vibration of the Griots. Z is correct about the pad drawbacks but it doesn't matter for a second to me. My 3" polisher will get into all the places I need it to.. More places then a PC or regular GG with any size pad will get into. + its more convenient imo.

We have "friendly" disagreed on this subject before, but that's ok. It gives different opinions.

I don't think the vibration is night and day between the 2. I do agree the Flex vibrates less, but not that much less.

I bought the Griot's 3" a few months back and sold it as fast as I bought it. I think it's pretty worthless. JMO. Pad stops rotating wayyyyy to easily.

Anyhow, I'm in the very few that didn't like the Flex all that much. The percentages are greater the OP will like the Flex, but there's always a few that are "outside the box" out there.

[Fly bye]

I like my PC7424

[WRAPT C5Z06]

I first learned on a rotary so I was used to that type of power and forced rotation.

I actually don't prefer forced rotation. Thank God the new Griot's DA has a lot of power compared to the PC724, PCXP, and G110v2, or I would have had no choice but to go with forced rotation if I wanted to correct faster and more efficient.

[PAR Detailing]

I actually don't prefer forced rotation. Thank God the new Griot's DA has a lot of power compared to the PC724, PCXP, and G110v2, or I would have had no choice but to go with forced rotation if I wanted to correct faster and more efficient.

Thats why you have to love all the choices out there. It makes it hard when you first go to buy a machine because you dont know which one to buy lol but in the end if you dont like it then try another one. What I like doesnt mean "you" (as in everyone) have to like it and vise versa. Both are very capable machines and I think both will get the job done, its left to personal preferance and how you work the maching i.e. technique and when done right you will get the results you desire

[chaley06]

thanks for everyones help. i think i am going to end up giving the flex a wurl sometime in the next couple weeks. ofcourse my girlfriend likes the porter cable better cause of price lol, but since we got done so bad on our taxes she said i could spoil myself and get what i want so i am going to take advantage of it and get the flex lol. cause cant i always go get a used porter cable for like 80 bucks or something if it doesnt work out with the flex??? also thanks for everyones input and keep it comming because buying my first polisher is quite the task.

[Fly bye]

You could always start with the PC7424, and get a Flex later on. You can perform tasks (scratch/swirl remove) faster with the flex, but if you learned on the PC, you would appreciate the Flex that much more later on down the road.

Depending upon what type of detailing you're doing, how much experience you have, it is not essential to rush out and pick up the Flex right away.

Ultimately, you can't go wrong either way

If you're careful, you can learn to machine polish with the Flex, but considering my past experience, a PC will more than suffice for an entry level, but the decision is yours.




Good luck mang

[Mike Phillips]

Lots of good feedback in this thread,

Here's an article I wrote on the different electric polishers...

How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project


The Flex will try to "Walk Away" if you hold it with more pressure on any one edge so it teaches you to hold it flat which is good technique in the first place.


The PC style polishers are the easiest to learn how to use and master, (That's two things), and as everyone is finding out and starting to post about, the Griot's Garage ROP has the most power and effectively works like a rotary buffer with the built in safety factor of the Free Floating Spindle Assembly.

The Free Floating Spindle Assembly - The Story Behind The Story...


Most people want to move to machine polishing because they have defects they want to remove from their car's paint and they either know or are learning that it's too hard to do by hand. See the articles below...


The practical differences between single stage paints and a clear coat paints
Man versus Machine



But if you couple the new Surbuf Pads with M105 and the Kevin Brown Method you have a Swirl Mark and Scratch Destroyer. Then simply switch to a polishing and/or finishing foam pad to finish out to a swirl free finish.

With the DA approach with the Surbuf pads and M105 you have almost the correction power of a rotary buffer without the fear or risk of

• Burning the paint
• Instilling swirls in the paint

And the good news is it use to take years for a person to hone their skills with a rotary buffer to turn out show car quality work and now it's really getting to the point that a complete Newbie to machine polishing can turn out the same results just by using all the newest technology that's available with good technique.


Surbuf MicroFinger Buffing Pads now at Autogeek!


The section below was sanded using the #3000 Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc on the Meguiar's G110v2 on the 5.0 Speed Setting for about 5-6 Section Passes.



We moved the car back out into the sun to show just how flat of a sanding mark pattern the Unigrit Foam Finishing Papers leave behind and this is because of the Unigrit particle size and distribution of these particles over the face of each disc; two very important factors that make removing sanding marks quick and easy.



A very flat or matte appearance
In person, the paint actually has a sheen to it as it's just a quick step away from a polished look because the sanding marks are so shallow and flat...



Back in the garage under the lights, you can see the Damp-Sanded area and the swirls and scratches in the rest of the paint.



Here are the results after Machine Compounding using the Surbuf MicroFinger Buffing Pads on the Meguiar's G110v2 on the 6.0 Speed Setting with M105 Ultra Compound for about 5-6 Section passes.

We followed this with M205 Ultra Finishing Polish on a W9207 Foam Finishing pad on the 5.0 Speed Setting using the G110v2 for about 4 passes with medium pressure and then two more section passes with just a little more than the weight of the machine to keep the pad flat to the surface. The results you see here are only after polishing with M205, there is no wax or paint sealant applied at this point.

The test section was also wiped clean using straight Mineral Spirits to remove any residual polishing oils.








Note the Dime in this picture carefully placed onto the paint




Close-up to show there are no sanding marks left on the surface, no tick marks or haze. There is a spec of dust just to the lower left hand corner off to the side of the dime that we left there to show just how close we are to the paint when taking this picture. This paint is LSP ready.



On the Autogeek.net Website

Surbuf R Series 4 Inch Buffing Pads 2 Pack
Surbuf R Series 5.5 Inch Buffing Pads 2 Pack
Surbuf R Series 6.5 Inch Buffing Pads 2 Pack

[Irish]

Good choice. I love my 3401. Mike is absolutely right about holding the pad flat against the surface.

You may want to look into getting a side grip handle. I found it much more comfortable than the bale-style. Pretty sure AG has one for like $10.