Gel Coat Oxidization Removal - How much to charge?

**Junebug** · 01-31-2013, 09:22 AM

I've done a couple boats and it gets easier each time due to the learning curve flattening out. I got smart and called the boat dealer and asked just what the heck did they use, answer - Shurbuff Buff Magic and they had it cheaper than anywhere else (on-line too) I looked. I use a DeWalt rotary and 6" wool pads. The Buff Magic is like jello pudding and I just use my finger to swipe a bit out of the can and rub on the wool pad, you'll figure out the right amount real quick (trust me!) Anyway, take your time, I buffed a 3-4' x 3-4' section at a time. Spur after every section! When the pad looks nasty, switch it out, I'd have at least 4-5 pads handy. Most likely after 4-5, you'll be wanting to call it a day and go for a beer or 3. OK, but as you replace the pads, drop the used ones in a bucket of cleaner, at the end of the day, piss your wife/girl friend off by washing these in the sink - then spin dry on the rotary and set out to finish air drying.
One step, ok, it was a long step and sometimes took a second pass on a section, but that was all I needed to put a shine back on the boat. I sealed with Four Seasons trewax.
Now, getting water spots off a boat windshield - that's another story!

**Hoytman** · 01-31-2013, 10:08 AM

I'd like to know how you guys arrive a given dollar amount per foot. I'm not asking about what you charge, rather, how you arrive there.

I've noticed several people saying x amount per foot for a one-step process.

Then I've seen x amount for per foot for two steps, and x amount 3 steps per foot.

I don't think quoting a price per linear foot is always fair to the detailer. Average boats, then sure...quoting by this method may be fair to both parties.

However, I've done several boats (helping friends and sort of you scratch my back I'll scratch your deals where money wasn't involved) and anyone who knows boats knows that the words "detailing a boat" can mean many things to many people.

Bass boats...linear foot would be fine. Flats boats...linear foot would be fine. Getting into coastal and offshore boats, even sail boats, can bring another entire gammut (sp?) of boat designs. Examples Sportcrafts vs. Thompson vs. Penn Yans. Walk around cuddy cabin models, Cabin cruiser, or center-consoles.

Sometimes a guestimate of total surface are might help you make a bit more for your efforts.

When you get into the boats that I mentioned above (coastal, offshore, and sail) the side heights (meaning from waterline to rub rails) can very greatly. I've seen boats of the same length, but made by different manufacturers very greatly in heights from waterline to rub rails. Engine location, types, and placement, can all make a huge difference in how a boat is laid out and/or designed. The insides of many of these boats can very greatly from shallow (hitting you just above your knees while standing inside the boat, to very deep with sides being above your waist and higher. Not all boats are designed for the same purpose which will also make a difference in how a boat is designed.

(Got a call and need to hurry here...)

For some of these different types of boats I think it's important to know what you're dealing with by looking at the boat. I also think that total surface area (guestimate) from waterline to rub rails needs to be taken into consideration when taking on the task of jobs such as these. These jobs are not a walk in the park. I'm not saying you need to break out a tape measure, rather, know what you're up against by taking a look at the boat and adjust price accordingly or you could get into real trouble, real fast.

Some great tips and otherwise great advice from other forum members in this thread.

**Always Learning** · 01-31-2013, 10:57 PM

Well I popped by and did a quick test spot using my 3401, Megs #4 one spot using purple foamed wool and did another spot using an orange pad - forgot my yellow and wanted to see the difference. I then used some Collinite 476s.

The boat is covered in dust in a poorly lit warehouse. It's a 1986 and the owner doesn't need perfection. It's a no rush project which suits me fine.

I'll definately invest in a spur ... otherwise knowing me something bad will happen.

I've attached a pic - sorry I'm not near a PC to edit / compress it.

He wants the waterline up done - compound and wax except only compound the anti skid areas. Nothing to do in the cabin area at all. Nothing else at all EXCEPT stripe removal - he'll put the new ones on - I wasn't sure I wanted that job.

All i can think of for now ....

I tried to attach a pic but it was upside down. I'll figure out a way to fix that tomorrow I hope.

**Always Learning** · 02-03-2013, 10:49 AM

Thursday I went and did a couple test spots, in the lighting I had it seemed to clean up ok. I think the oxidization isn't the main problem with this boat. The owner isn't looking for perfection nor willing to pay for it ...

There are however stripes to remove and the associated adhesive to deal with. Now I've removed Tuct tape from a Porsche (thanks for the tips on that in the associated thread). I didn't test this but know it's going to be miserable.

There are new stripes to cover the spot where the current ones are, so it shouldn't need to be compounded to blend perfectly.

Am I looking at another full day to remove the stripes and adhesive ... possibly more?

Reflecting on the pictures, I think I really under priced.

**primo spaghetti** · 02-03-2013, 11:05 AM

im recalling your first post i this thread of the owners opinion of the condition of the boat...laughable...

i hope you are going to make some cash on this...

as for the test spot, it looks pretty good. 3m makes a good adhesive remover and i think a wheel for it too...id say you might be looking at that to remove the residue based on those pics...

the problem with someone who isnt willing to pay for a proper detail si that they arent going to be happy with what you do for the price you are being paid...like they will nevr be satisfied an full of complaints..

sometimes its worth not doing the job because it will be nothing but headaches from the owner...

**Always Learning** · 02-03-2013, 12:16 PM

This is a part time gig for me - I'd be "somewhat" ok with what I quoted him for the polish / wax provided:

1) I could do a good job that I'm proud of and would be happy to some before / after pictures. (won't do it if it has to be shoddy work)

2) owner is happy

3) I can do it in a reasonable amount of time

I think the stripe removal is putting me in the 'it's not worth my time' area if the adhesive removal is anywhere near as time consuming as it was when I took it off that car.

**primo spaghetti** · 02-03-2013, 12:35 PM

haha..

well good for you...i hope it all works out..

youll have to post some finished pics!

**Bates Detailing** · 02-04-2013, 09:28 PM

Looking at pics - 2K at least + by yourself about a week of work at 10 hour days. It is highly oxidized my friend. Watched the videos I posted on this thread - it should help produce great results. You can go and just compound, polish and wax - but take this opportunity to SHINE and you will not only have great word of mouth, but also great before and afters for future boat clients

**Bamafire** · 02-04-2013, 09:44 PM

What's the going rate for let's say 20 ft bass boat light to Heavy oxidation water line to rails? B&B how would charge this?

**Bates Detailing** · 02-04-2013, 09:53 PM

Originally Posted by Bamafire

What's the going rate for let's say 20 ft bass boat light to Heavy oxidation water line to rails? B&B how would charge this?

Year, Make and Model?

Aluminum, Gel Coat, Paint with Clear, etc?

Jobs like this I come to, do a test spot (to see how much time and products it will take), Show the client the finished product of the test spot - then charge appropriately.