Correcting oxidized gelcoat

**glen e** · 01-06-2012, 11:45 AM

OK – in all the conversations here about what to use, I have finally narrowed it down to how to get rid of oxidation and make gel coat look like the day it was delivered from the showroom. I have purposefully left out all the how to for waxing because once you get the gel coat to be perfectly mirror like, you can put what ever you fancy to keep it shinning – even by hand as far as I’m concerned.

So if your boat is like mine and 3 – 6 years old and well kept but needing a rejuvenation or “correction” as the detailers call it, read on. After buying several polishes and compounds, here is the easiest things I found to get the boat jewel like. Certainly you mileage may vary and yes others work as well, but this worked perfectly on my boat and my neighbor’s boat.

The key is a rotary and wool pads – they make practically any compound work and I have tried about 6 of them. It can be done with an orbital but it will take HOURS vs MINUTES with a rotary. And it need not be expensive. Harbor Freight has a rotary for 39 bucks and if you do this once a year, you can throw it away annually and still be way ahead of a professional detailer’s bill.

So as you can see from the photo here are the things I used. The Duragloss/compound and polish formulations for FG are extremely powerful and mistake proof. Notice the small wool pad, the extender and the backing plate for the rotary – let’s you get everywhere the big pad can’t.

And all it takes is a pass or two to bring the gelcoat back quickly. The tape is to tape off speakers, etc…I removed all my bolsters to do it right. The foam pads are for using the compound (561) on molded pieces like strakes, ridges, etc..

Work in 3 sq foot sections – one or two passes across and then a few down….put the product on the pad. Once you make a few passes with these products, buff off and seal /wax with what ever you like. I like the Ultima sealant pictured here – no buff off.

So here is the side of the boat and the bolster removed – showing virgin gelcoat….the bottom is after the above process…virtually no difference.

All these products avail at autogeek.net

Mike Phillips · 01-06-2012, 12:38 PM

Cool thread... I didn't know what I was clicking on by reading the title but that's part of why I clicked on it!

Originally Posted by glen e

The key is a rotary and wool pads –

Strongly agree.

Oxidized gel-coat can be removed using other tools or by hand but a rotary buffer with a quality wool cutting pad and a spur minimum is the way to go. A pad washer is a real blessing because you're going to remove a lot of dead, oxidized polyester resin. If you don't remove the oxidized residue off your buffing pad with either a spur or a pad washer "often" it will make the job a lot harder.

Originally Posted by glen e

Notice the small wool pad, the extender and the backing plate for the rotary – let’s you get everywhere the big pad can’t.

Strongly agree.

The extension and small backing plates and pads are the two best accessories you can add to your rotary buffer arsenal of tools.

Cool post and boat looks very clean and shiny, when we going fishing?

**glen e** · 01-07-2012, 12:07 AM

Mike - the title musta got lost in posting - can I get the edit function back?

ill take you fishing anytime - I'm in pompano..

**Flash Gordon** · 01-07-2012, 10:01 AM

Nice job on the gel coat resto!

Originally Posted by glen e

Mike - the title musta got lost in posting - can I get the edit function back?

ill take you fishing anytime - I'm in pompano..

PM a mod and have them change the title

**Jeanolivier** · 02-03-2012, 10:45 AM

Hello Glen E, thanks for the post.
I'm new to boat detailing and your thread help me.
One question, I only have a porter cable and I realize that da will not do the best job on my boat....
So I need to buy rotary.
I'm looking for the Flex3403. Since I never own a rotary do you think it will be hard for me to start with a boat? Thanks

**glen e** · 02-03-2012, 10:50 AM

That 3403 works perfectly and is what I used in the the post I wrote here...see the pic above again...
It was the first time I used a rotary too..

a boat is the perfect way to start as you can't really do any damage to gelcoat - like you can on a car if you misuse it....just watch the videos on using a rotary here and autogeek.

**Jeanolivier** · 02-03-2012, 02:37 PM

Thanks I will order my flex this week-end then. Thanks for your help

**pier-pressure** · 10-07-2012, 10:10 AM

Glen my friend you are everywhere. I'm a big AG fan glad to see you here my verado brother !!

Was searching threads and came across this. I have a question on the picture where the bolster is off and the bottom is shiny and e top is dull. Where you able to get that top part back to same shine ? I have a couple of spots on the boat that are not cooperating, specifically area that look like this where my bolsters are located that I cannot get the same shine back. I am using the same exact products and equipment as you. I am spinning my makita at about 1500 RPMs using wool and the duragloss. Any suggestions ? I figure I could wetsanding but would prefer not to for thegelcoats sake.

Regards

Eddie M

**freedre** · 10-07-2012, 10:44 AM

Nice work Glen - thanks for sharing

**DCOutdoors** · 01-20-2013, 05:41 AM

Originally Posted by glen e

That 3403 works perfectly and is what I used in the the post I wrote here...see the pic above again...
It was the first time I used a rotary too..

a boat is the perfect way to start as you can't really do any damage to gelcoat - like you can on a car if you misuse it....just watch the videos on using a rotary here and autogeek.

Just a little warning: you can damage gelcoat with a rotary buffer! The 46-foot boat I am working on now has black marks all over it where the last person burned through the coat. While it is harder to hurt your gelcoat - it can be done. Recommend starting with a slower speed (1500 to 1800 rpm) and don't let your buffer sit in one place to long.

Good Luck