Noob & confused....

**red91lx** · 03-13-2007, 07:02 PM

Just upgraded to a Makita rotary buffer....trying to understand how "full-contact curved-edge" pads are used vs full-contact. Is the center of the curved pad used for flat surfaces and the edges used for tight spaces?

I've seen pics of someone holding a rotary buffer level on a flat surface so only the center of the curved pad touches the paint. It seems like a full-contact pad would do a more efficient job. Is this right or am I just really, really stupid?

Thanks......

**JTS** · 03-14-2007, 05:52 AM

While some manufacturers recommend buffing with their pads flat on the surface, I have never mastered this technique. I find the larger pads used on circular polishers are very squirrelly when placed flat on the surface. I find that tilting the polisher just a little gives me much more control over the pad. I recommend tilting the polisher slightly, putting just a little more pressure on the pad's edge.

**red91lx** · 03-14-2007, 07:01 AM

For paint with more damage, do you increase the pressure on the pad, the RPM or the time spent polishing that area?

Do you recommend the curved edge pads or sticking with the flat ones?

BTW...squirrley is a GREAT description!!!!!

**JTS** · 03-14-2007, 07:15 AM

There are basic guidelines but no one "right" way to polish with a circular polisher. How the machine is held, the motions used and the speed selected will vary from person to person and will likely change as you gain more experience. If you keep the speed in the 1000 rpm range, you can feel free to develop your own technique without fear of burning the paint.

Many polish manufacturers suggest a speed range of 1200 to 1800 rpm for optimum polishing results. I always start at 1000 rpm and increase the speed if needed to remove scratches or paint defects.