Detailing Advice

[ryandamartini]

First and foremost the best investment you can make to keep your vehicle looking great and hold some resale value is investing in a Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher. It is also sold under the badges of 7336 / 7336SP, and finally the most popular 7424 which is available for purchase right here on autogeek. Great way to take advantage of that 10% off code!

Forgive me, Im just going to reiterate some things maybe but here it goes:

Washing/Drying:
I CANNOT EMPHASIZE ENOUGH HOW important proper washing and drying is to maintain a swirl free finish.
For this, you want a proper wash mitt and drying towel. For a washmit, I recommend the Schmitt. It is a soft foam with a scrubber for lower areas. It can be machine washed, and many members here have nothing but great things to say about, me personally it’s the best wash mitt ever made.
http://autogeek.net/shmitt.html

And for drying look at the Cobra Guzzler! By far, the best drying towel I have set eyes on. It is 28" x 54" and will dry your beautiful benz streak free every time. I suggest grabbing one for your big truck! This will help prevent water spots by sucking up the water effectively and completely.

http://autogeek.net/waffle-weave-drying-towel.html

Claying:
About:
http://autogeek.net/clbaandlu.html

My picks:
http://autogeek.net/piulpoclkit.html
http://autogeek.net/wg8000.html



Wax and Sealants:
Now there is a difference here. Waxes are pastes and liquids consisting of either a Carnauba base [natural wax] or a synthetic polymer base [synthetic]. Waxes tend to give the best look of depth and shimmering out of the two, but do not last that long as far as protection is concerned.

This is why a lot of people use both! Sealants form a hard layer on your clear coat to protect your paint. They give a more reflective look to your paint and a very wet look. How do you combine these great elements you ask? Well you use them both. I prefer to lay down a layer of sealant, let it cure for a while and then put a layer of my favorite Carnauba wax on there.

My suggestions for waxes are either DP Maxwax or Nattys Blue or Nattys Blue depending on if your car is a darker hue [nattys blue, or lighter [paste] . All 3 are at a great price point and will give you great results. However if your prepared to shell the cash out, Pinnacle Souveran for sure!

As far as sealants, I only use two on my cars, and that is Duragloss or WolfGang Deep Gloss. Both give superior looks, Duragloss however leaves a shine for months that you will be proud of. I think of WolfGang as a super carnauba sealant in the way it looks. A great choice for solid, great looking protection for around 3 months, after that you will still be protected, however some of the look has faded.

Polishing:
As far as polishing goes, the Porter Cable 7424 is a great tool. While similar to many orbital polishers, it is more powerful than most around. The PC can do astounding corrective work once trained up on it and it a good investment. I suggest you look at the videos on this page as they might help you assess the damage and what polishes you will need on your beauty. http://autogeek.net/xmt.html , http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/video/

As far as pad choices go, I know the price is a little steep for the whole set, but go for the full set of Edge2k pads. They are double sided, so basically 2 in one on each pad. This kit gives you some pad care products, the pads, and buffing bonnets to take off waxes, along with the edge adapter. An EXCELLENT deal! http://autogeek.net/foam-polishing-kit.html

Welcome to car OCD, and we hope you enjoy your ride! Don’t be shy to PM any one of out members for some help if you need it!

Polishes: Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound, no dusting, great lubrication, great results,

Pinnacle XMT : XMT 1 / 2 / 3 in order of abrasiveness from least [1] to greatest [3]. Minimum to no dusting, leaves a brilliant finish, and they are formulated FOR the PC.

[YankeeFan]

First and foremost the best investment you can make to keep your vehicle looking great and hold some resale value is investing in a Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher. It is also sold under the badges of 7336 / 7336SP, and finally the most popular 7424 which is available for purchase right here on autogeek. Great way to take advantage of that 10% off code!

Forgive me, Im just going to reiterate some things maybe but here it goes:

Washing/Drying:
I CANNOT EMPHASIZE ENOUGH HOW important proper washing and drying is to maintain a swirl free finish.
For this, you want a proper wash mitt and drying towel. For a washmit, I recommend the Schmitt. It is a soft foam with a scrubber for lower areas. It can be machine washed, and many members here have nothing but great things to say about, me personally it’s the best wash mitt ever made.
http://autogeek.net/shmitt.html

And for drying look at the Cobra Guzzler! By far, the best drying towel I have set eyes on. It is 28" x 54" and will dry your beautiful benz streak free every time. I suggest grabbing one for your big truck! This will help prevent water spots by sucking up the water effectively and completely.

http://autogeek.net/waffle-weave-drying-towel.html

Claying:
about:
http://autogeek.net/clbaandlu.html

My picks:
http://autogeek.net/piulpoclkit.html
http://autogeek.net/wg8000.html



Wax and Sealants:
Now there is a difference here. Waxes are pastes and liquids consisting of either a Carnauba base [natural wax] or a synthetic polymer base [synthetic]. Waxes tend to give the best look of depth and shimmering out of the two, but do not last that long as far as protection is concerned.

This is why a lot of people use both! Sealants form a hard layer on your clear coat to protect your paint. They give a more reflective look to your paint and a very wet look. How do you combine these great elements you ask? Well you use them both. I prefer to lay down a layer of sealant, let it cure for a while and then put a layer of my favorite Carnauba wax on there.

My suggestions for waxes are either DP Maxwax or Nattys Blue or Nattys Blue depending on if your car is a darker hue [nattys blue, or lighter [paste] . All 3 are at a great price point and will give you great results. However if your prepared to shell the cash out, Pinnacle Souveran for sure!

As far as sealants, I only use two on my cars, and that is Duragloss or WolfGang Deep Gloss. Both give superior looks, Duragloss however leaves a shine for months that you will be proud of. I think of WolfGang as a super carnauba sealant in the way it looks. A great choice for solid, great looking protection for around 3 months, after that you will still be protected, however some of the look has faded.

Polishing:
As far as polishing goes, the Porter Cable 7424 is a great tool. While similar to many orbital polishers, it is more powerful than most around. The PC can do astounding corrective work once trained up on it and it a good investment. I suggest you look at the videos on this page as they might help you assess the damage and what polishes you will need on your beauty. http://autogeek.net/xmt.html , http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/video/

As far as pad choices go, I know the price is a little steep for the whole set, but go for the full set of Edge2k pads. They are double sided, so basically 2 in one on each pad. This kit gives you some pad care products, the pads, and buffing bonnets to take off waxes, along with the edge adapter. An EXCELLENT deal! http://autogeek.net/foam-polishing-kit.html

Welcome to car OCD, and we hope you enjoy your ride! Don’t be shy to PM any one of out members for some help if you need it!

Polishes: Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound, no dusting, great lubrication, great results,

Pinnacle XMT : XMT 1 / 2 / 3 in order of abrasiveness from least [1] to greatest [3]. Minimum to no dusting, leaves a brilliant finish, and they are formulated FOR the PC.

Curious........when you apply the Duragloss sealant what do you do to prepare the car? And do you do that to help it look better or is there a bonding issue if you don't prep the car first? Bought both 601 and 105 weeks ago but will hold off using them till Spring hits but just trying to gauge what I need to do then.

Thanks,
Howard

[ScottB]

Wash --- Clay --- Polish --- Protect

All products are personal choice, the prep remains the same !!

[YankeeFan]

Wash --- Clay --- Polish --- Protect

All products are personal choice, the prep remains the same !!

Okay........just two questions to further clarify this process. First, do y'all really clay the whole car? Does that usually take a great deal of time using 4-8 oz. of clay? Do you use a whole bottle of lubricator to get through this? I also kinda fear clay as it can lead to more scatches making the situation worse than what is started with.

Second, the polish portion is to (a) remove swirls (b) to remove any wax/sealant to start with a clean slate, true statement? But to pick a polish is something where I would have to determine, based upon the amount of swirls, what degree of abrasiveness to get plus what kind of pad to use. Being a newbie, what is the best method to use to determine this? If I start from the least abrasive to the most I could there all day trying each level. Also, I see many who own a PC use XMT, what is the manual counterpart to it, SSRs?

Thanks for any help you can give to help me understand how to do this correctly,
Howard

[CalgaryDetail]

Okay........just two questions to further clarify this process. First, do y'all really clay the whole car? Does that usually take a great deal of time using 4-8 oz. of clay? Do you use a whole bottle of lubricator to get through this? I also kinda fear clay as it can lead to more scatches making the situation worse than what is started with.

Second, the polish portion is to (a) remove swirls (b) to remove any wax/sealant to start with a clean slate, true statement? But to pick a polish is something where I would have to determine, based upon the amount of swirls, what degree of abrasiveness to get plus what kind of pad to use. Being a newbie, what is the best method to use to determine this? If I start from the least abrasive to the most I could there all day trying each level. Also, I see many who own a PC use XMT, what is the manual counterpart to it, SSRs?

Thanks for any help you can give to help me understand how to do this correctly,
Howard

claying can nornly be done in less then an hour, I can do an average size car in about 30 min. With the clay you spray the lube on and rb the clay around. You will find the clay gets dirty so you just need to kneed it. This prevents the clay from getting dirt in it, which can harm your paint. However if you kneed alot this should not be an issue.
As for the whol ebottle, thats a no, i dont use ALOt of lube but i do use some. An average 16oz bottle will last for a couple cars. You just need to spray the lube alot.
If you do these two things you will not have any problems with your paint getting scracthed. Its is a commin misconsption that paint harms paint, the actual #### is claying improperly hurts paint. So if done right you should not have an issue, and i do clay the whole car.

As for the polishes, you have chemical and abrasive polishing, from what you are talking about you are looking at abrasives. I dont know what the equilcvent for a hand polsish would be however as to starting with the least abrasive and moving up. this dosent take as long as you think. The trick is do one section, see fif it works, If not move on to somthing more abrasive. once you know what works then do it to the whole car. Also there are only 4 levels of ssr, and you will prbley never need ssr 3, 2.5 should remove almost anything.

[YankeeFan]

claying can nornly be done in less then an hour, I can do an average size car in about 30 min. With the clay you spray the lube on and rb the clay around. You will find the clay gets dirty so you just need to kneed it. This prevents the clay from getting dirt in it, which can harm your paint. However if you kneed alot this should not be an issue.
As for the whol ebottle, thats a no, i dont use ALOt of lube but i do use some. An average 16oz bottle will last for a couple cars. You just need to spray the lube alot.
If you do these two things you will not have any problems with your paint getting scracthed. Its is a commin misconsption that paint harms paint, the actual #### is claying improperly hurts paint. So if done right you should not have an issue, and i do clay the whole car.

As for the polishes, you have chemical and abrasive polishing, from what you are talking about you are looking at abrasives. I dont know what the equilcvent for a hand polsish would be however as to starting with the least abrasive and moving up. this dosent take as long as you think. The trick is do one section, see fif it works, If not move on to somthing more abrasive. once you know what works then do it to the whole car. Also there are only 4 levels of ssr, and you will prbley never need ssr 3, 2.5 should remove almost anything.

Dude.......thanks so much for the info. Copied your entire post into a Word file for future use.

Howard

[CalgaryDetail]

Dude.......thanks so much for the info. Copied your entire post into a Word file for future use.

Howard

glad I can help, i have clayed more then a few cars. Once you do it once you rleise how easy it really is, good luck and let us know how it goes....ohh ya word will pcik up on a few spelling mistakes... opps