Which MF towels should I buy?

[slapjack]

In edition I'd get some 365 gsms edgeless for removing waxes and buffing. They are the best all purpose size. If you do waterless washes the 420's are good for that. Also the twist loop light blue glass towel is nice instead of waffle weave

Are you talking about trc premium glass towels? Instead of the waffle weaves?

Also I’ll probbalt grab 5 if the 365’s but they only have that blonde color in stock. And I was going to get some wizards but they just sold out. Honestly seems like they suck on keeping stuff in stock. The wizards the 365’s and the split purplnality were all towels I wanted and they are all out of stock and the 365s and purple ones have been out of stock for quite awhile

[inDetail]

They majority of towels I own are Rag Co. I get what I need at a very fair price. I have never had issues with lint or shedding except for the first wash and dry. Chances are many negative comments are due to misuse (the wrong towel/type of weave for the wrong task.) or poor care of the towels. (washing and drying.)
PFM drying towels are awesome. They are a twisted loop weave. That's what makes them awesome drying towels it's the blend and weave. I prefer good old waffle weave, cheaper and does the job in one extra wipe. Rag Co. makes one twisted loop weave towel.
All you want is a good 70/30 blend towel and China, Korean does not matter. You want to make sure you are using the right weave for the task. All my Chinese towels are just as good as the Korean's at getting the job done. It' the material not the country. Here are your general guidelines for weave and use. Some towels can overlap many tasks, some can't. I'm sure I missed something.

Drying: Twisted Loop or Waffle Weave.
Polish removal: Terry, Pearl (70/30 blend only) or short split fiber or dual pile towel. The shorter the weave the more bite it has for stubborn compound residue.
Rinseless: Long split circular knit weave (Eagle Edgeless) or Coral Weave. Waffle Weave for Drying.
Wax, Sealant, QD, Spray Wax: Long Split, Coral weave on sealants, coral weave may stick on some natural waxes.
Glass: I just use expired kitchen and bath towels. cotton. If you want MF use Waffle Weave. You want bite on glass. Glass is really hard so you can use cotton.
Coatings: Terry, Suede, Pearl weave. Yes you can get coating residue out of MF. Presoak tap hot water and APC and wash hot water. It may take several washes with a white vinegar rinse but it will come out as long as you are not loading the towels up with residue. Then reuse them for coatings better to wash towels a few times then buy more when your doing coatings.
Even with all that information you can get away Getting a plush shorter nap towel or a bunch of dual pile towels just different colors and just have them color coded by task to avoid cross contamination. ( I'm notorious for doing this but I know my towels are pristine.)
Part of towel care for me is not washing by task but by weave types. (I do wash my B towels used on wheels and engines separate from my A towels.) Don't wash and dry your shorter tight weaves with long plusher weaves or the longer fibers will stick to shorter fibers causing shedding and lint. Don't let product set on your towels. Have a presoak bucket with a little cheap APC mixed in with water and toss all your A towels in it while your working to keep dirt, stains and product loose. If it looks like they may have stains spray some APC on the stains before washing. No need to soak B towels, they are B towels old and meant to be stained. I've washed hundreds of towels hundreds of times and after the first wash before use the lint trap in my dryer is spotless. If your lint trap has fibers in it your doing something wrong. I've used dirt cheap towels all the way up to $20+ drying towels. I hope this helps explain the insane world of MF.

[Eldorado2k]

I’ve got some premium sort nap microfiber towels that are used for Polish/Compound removal.

Premium microfiber drying towels.

The best 30/70 waffle weaves for Glass and I don’t give a rip whether they came from China or North Korea. [I’ve never even bothered to check, all I know is they’re the best glass towels by far that I’ve ever used]

For everything else... Costo Kirklands. [and some Megs Yellow Supreme Shines]

I’ve never shopped at the Lag Company, and I’ve never had a problem with lint. Microfiber towels aren’t supposed to lint.

[slapjack]

They majority of towels I own are Rag Co. I get what I need at a very fair price. I have never had issues with lint or shedding except for the first wash and dry. Chances are many negative comments are due to misuse (the wrong towel/type of weave for the wrong task.) or poor care of the towels. (washing and drying.)
PFM drying towels are awesome. They are a twisted loop weave. That's what makes them awesome drying towels it's the blend and weave. I prefer good old waffle weave, cheaper and does the job in one extra wipe. Rag Co. makes one twisted loop weave towel.
All you want is a good 70/30 blend towel and China, Korean does not matter. You want to make sure you are using the right weave for the task. All my Chinese towels are just as good as the Korean's at getting the job done. It' the material not the country. Here are your general guidelines for weave and use. Some towels can overlap many tasks, some can't. I'm sure I missed something.

Drying: Twisted Loop or Waffle Weave.
Polish removal: Terry, Pearl (70/30 blend only) or short split fiber or dual pile towel. The shorter the weave the more bite it has for stubborn compound residue.
Rinseless: Long split circular knit weave (Eagle Edgeless) or Coral Weave. Waffle Weave for Drying.
Wax, Sealant, QD, Spray Wax: Long Split, Coral weave on sealants, coral weave may stick on some natural waxes.
Glass: I just use expired kitchen and bath towels. cotton. If you want MF use Waffle Weave. You want bite on glass. Glass is really hard so you can use cotton.
Coatings: Terry, Suede, Pearl weave. Yes you can get coating residue out of MF. Presoak tap hot water and APC and wash hot water. It may take several washes with a white vinegar rinse but it will come out as long as you are not loading the towels up with residue. Then reuse them for coatings better to wash towels a few times then buy more when your doing coatings.
Even with all that information you can get away Getting a plush shorter nap towel or a bunch of dual pile towels just different colors and just have them color coded by task to avoid cross contamination. ( I'm notorious for doing this but I know my towels are pristine.)
Part of towel care for me is not washing by task but by weave types. (I do wash my B towels used on wheels and engines separate from my A towels.) Don't wash and dry your shorter tight weaves with long plusher weaves or the longer fibers will stick to shorter fibers causing shedding and lint. Don't let product set on your towels. Have a presoak bucket with a little cheap APC mixed in with water and toss all your A towels in it while your working to keep dirt, stains and product loose. If it looks like they may have stains spray some APC on the stains before washing. No need to soak B towels, they are B towels old and meant to be stained. I've washed hundreds of towels hundreds of times and after the first wash before use the lint trap in my dryer is spotless. If your lint trap has fibers in it your doing something wrong. I've used dirt cheap towels all the way up to $20+ drying towels. I hope this helps explain the insane world of MF.

Thanks for write up. Very helpful

[slapjack]

Placed my orders today. I went with the following to get stated.
5 eagle edgeless 500 for final buff
20 edgeless 300 for wax sealant compound and ipa
10 edgeless 245 for interior
5 spectrum 420 for door jambs and wheels
5 of the Korean waffle weaves for Windows
1 large PFM drying towel
1 Ga. if 3D towel Kleen
2 noodle type wash mits
And I just got my order of a bunch of orange white and red 5.5 and 3.5 foam pads and griots correcting cream. Hopefully that stuff really does finish out as well as they say cause I didn’t get any of the perfecting cream polish.
A couple weeks ago I got all my other stuff like jescar power lock+, foam cannon, shampoo, meg. Prof. clay bar and car pro immolube for a lubricant Adams vrt, McKee’s rubber rejuvenator, wheel brushes, griots HD wheel cleaner, super clean for apc and a bunch of other stuff. I think I’m set to at least get started as soon as the weather hits at least the mid 50s.

Couple other questions I have
Does rustoleum wax and tar remover work good for an ipa wipe after compounding before applying sealant?
I got that purple power HD vehicle and boat wash for my first wash of the summer for removing any existing wax (based on Dallas paint correction and auto detailings recommendation). Anybody had good results with that?
Does griots correcting cream (regular correcting cream, not the fast correcting cream) finish out good enough that I won’t need to go over again with a polish? Mostly I have swirls and spider webs it looks like. There are a couple of deeper scratches but i think those are going to require touch up paint anyways.

[PaulMys]

Looks like a good MF order to me.

Cannot comment on the rustoleum product, but the GG Correcting cream is an outstanding product. And yes, when used properly it finishes out beautifully.

[Rrthomas78]

I’ve got some premium sort nap microfiber towels that are used for Polish/Compound removal.

Premium microfiber drying towels.

The best 30/70 waffle weaves for Glass and I don’t give a rip whether they came from China or North Korea. [I’ve never even bothered to check, all I know is they’re the best glass towels by far that I’ve ever used]

For everything else... Costo Kirklands. [and some Megs Yellow Supreme Shines]

I’ve never shopped at the Lag Company, and I’ve never had a problem with lint. Microfiber towels aren’t supposed to lint.

Do you use the supreme shines on paint? I bought 12 on a whim and haven't used them yet. I've been buying alot of higher gsm and 70/30 towels lately (I could also care less of coo) the one thing I like about Meg's ss is the size and I guess price

[Rrthomas78]

The PFM is hands down the most absorbent drying towel I have ever used. Doesn’t mean you shouldn’t have other towels in your collection IMO.
I currently have Microfiber Madness DMC, PFM’s (big and small), Big Blue from AG, Gyeon silk (big and small), Twistress, Dry me a River, Cobra Guzzlers amongst others.
I buy a lot of towels from TRC and they are very high quality and last with proper care.









Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app

When you have that many (obviously some do the same thing as others) do you develope favorites and do some just go by the wayside? I'm envious of what you have there.

[fly07sti]

@Rrthomas78 : I do get into using certain towels more than others, but lately I have been trying to circulate them more. I also have an excessive amount because I do sell quite a few towels to my customers that want to do there own maintenance.

[Eldorado2k]

Do you use the supreme shines on paint? I bought 12 on a whim and haven't used them yet. I've been buying alot of higher gsm and 70/30 towels lately (I could also care less of coo) the one thing I like about Meg's ss is the size and I guess price

To answer your question, yes they’re certainly more than good enough to use on paint. Supreme Shine microfiber towels are the only kind that are used at the Meguiars Garage in Irvine Ca.



I’d say the results speak for themselves. And like you said, their 12”x16” size is a plus.