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  1. #21
    Super Member Vegas Transplant's Avatar
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    Re: How to make your stanless steel door sills look brand new

    OAN: the Tripoli from your site is ~ 100 grit lower than the Tripoli that I use. I have one bar from Menzerna and wanted to try out the entire line up. But I'm pretty adept at what I use, and the Menzerna line is 3X (each bar) the cost of what I use.
    VT
    Quote Originally Posted by glen e View Post
    ....It's all I use these days....they are buffing when I'm relaxing...and still don't get the powder out of canines!

  2. #22
    Newbie Member EMC22's Avatar
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    Re: How to make your stanless steel door sills look brand new

    Quote Originally Posted by Vegas Transplant View Post
    Yes Sir. No lingering doubts. I kinda figured you were going for gloss after the GG episode. Not at all surprised that you went for the brushed on the latter.
    As you described your "pass", one direction is cutting, and the opposite is polishing. So you would not get full correction using this method, or limited number of passes. If you would have chosen the emory instead of the tripoli, then went with the stainless bar instead of the white, then you would have made more progress. Also, I think you stated using the tall cylindrical buff. If you would have went with the hard sewn, you also would have attained better results.

    The bottom line is that the bling you achieved is undeniable. I think that you picked a trifecta.

    I'll have to try and post pics of the buffs I used. The cylindrical one had a smaller radius, was the heaviest and most dense. I tried the firmer of the two sewn wheels with Tripoli also, and although it has a bigger radius and therefore higher contact speed, it did not cut as well as the cylinder. It also did not allow me to apply as much pressure as it deformed too easily. You're right that a hard sewn wheel would have been quicker. I'll definitely be ordering one for future use.

    Also the Tripoli was the coarsest rouge that came with the kit, so unfortunately I didn't have much choice there.

    Been an interesting learning experience, so thanks for the inputs. Sounds like you know your way around a polishing wheel

    VW: 1990 Golf II CSX, BMW: 1999 323i, 2000 325i, 2001 525i, 2004 120i, 2005 530i, 2007 550i, 2009 X6 xDrive 35i Porsche: 2011 Panamera, 2012 Panamera 4S

  3. #23
    Newbie Member EMC22's Avatar
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    Re: How to make your stanless steel door sills look brand new

    For clarification, these are the buffs that were used in steps 3 and 4 in the initial post.
    I couldn't find links to the individual parts on the website so I will just post snapshots from the package pic:

    This is the buff used in step 3 with Brown/Tripoli compound:
    It is dense and allows for a good amount of pressure to be applied.



    This is the buff used in step 4 with white compound:
    Lower density but good for getting a higher level of gloss.


    VW: 1990 Golf II CSX, BMW: 1999 323i, 2000 325i, 2001 525i, 2004 120i, 2005 530i, 2007 550i, 2009 X6 xDrive 35i Porsche: 2011 Panamera, 2012 Panamera 4S

  4. #24
    Super Member Vegas Transplant's Avatar
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    Re: How to make your stanless steel door sills look brand new

    I hope that others respond to this, but the former is used mostly for buffing, while the later is for heavy cutting. They can be used for either, but since the piece is SS I would revisit the spiral sewn for cutting. There's a method to the madness.

    I understand your method of pressure and how you used these together, but your biggest drawback in getting 100% correction is lack of SFPM that the 2500rmp drill is limited to...and the fact that you lose rpm's as more presure is applied. You need about 7000 SFPM's to get correction needed for mirror finish.

    Personally, I don't understand how you were able to achieve the end product, therefore my mention of coated/anodized...which I don't know to be accurate or not Different strokes for different folks I guess

    For me to get mirror finish, I would not drop so low in sanding grit initially. I would have had several sanding stages, and at least 3, possibly 4, compounding steps.

    Anyhoo, as long as YOU are satisfied with your method and end product, that's all that really matters. Post is getting long and I have things to do right now. Will pm you links to two supply sites and their polishing guides.
    VT
    Quote Originally Posted by glen e View Post
    ....It's all I use these days....they are buffing when I'm relaxing...and still don't get the powder out of canines!

  5. #25
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    Re: How to make your stanless steel door sills look brand new

    Video from Eastwood

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SidCppOfJY]How-to & Buffing Basics Demonstration Live with Eastwood - YouTube[/video]

  6. #26
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    Re: How to make your stanless steel door sills look brand new

    Anyone have experience with the green stainless steel compound?

  7. #27
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    Re: How to make your stanless steel door sills look brand new

    They discuss Green Compound and all the other colors in the video

  8. #28
    Super Member Vegas Transplant's Avatar
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    Re: How to make your stanless steel door sills look brand new

    I use it mainly as a "cheater" step blinging out aluminum.
    VT
    Quote Originally Posted by glen e View Post
    ....It's all I use these days....they are buffing when I'm relaxing...and still don't get the powder out of canines!

  9. #29
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    Re: How to make your stanless steel door sills look brand new

    Quote Originally Posted by allenk4 View Post
    They discuss Green Compound and all the other colors in the video
    I watched the video but didn't know what others had to say. He doesn't say much or demonstrate it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vegas Transplant View Post
    I use it mainly as a "cheater" step blinging out aluminum.
    Could it remove brush marks in SS? I'm trying to remove them from my exhaust tips but didn't know if a corded drill could produce enough speed to remove the marks.

  10. #30
    Super Member Vegas Transplant's Avatar
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    Re: How to make your stanless steel door sills look brand new

    Quote Originally Posted by KillaCam View Post
    Could it remove brush marks in SS? I'm trying to remove them from my exhaust tips but didn't know if a corded drill could produce enough speed to remove the marks.
    With enough time and the right buff/bob.
    However, sometimes it will require a stronger grit depending on marks.
    Can you get a good photo?
    VT
    Quote Originally Posted by glen e View Post
    ....It's all I use these days....they are buffing when I'm relaxing...and still don't get the powder out of canines!

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