Porsche Detailing Help

**knowlan22** · 02-25-2016, 12:50 PM

Hi Guys,

I am really new to the detailing world and trying to learn as much as I can. Recently, I purchased a Porter Cable 7424XP along with a full set of Chemical Guys Hex-logic pads to start my collection. I already had some Meg. Ultimate Compound, SwirlX 2.0 and Meg. Ultimate Polish, and purchased HD Speed along with Chemical Guys VSS for one step solutions.

I have a Macan Turbo that recently came back from the dealer with a ton of swirl marks. I don't know if they were entirely responsible for the marks or if I just suddenly realized them on that particular day. Either way - I am determined to make the car look perfect again.

I taped off sections of my hood and tried a few different combinations of product and pads. I found HD Speed worked pretty well but didn't remove all the swirls. Since it was a one step solution that wasn't getting me to the point I wanted, I figured it wouldn't be a good idea to continue with it. Maybe it will be a good maitenance product for future details.

CG VSS left significantly more swirls so didn't think twice about this AIO. This left the multi step Meguiars which seemingly was removing 97% of scratches. I used a yellow pad with the Ult. Compound on the entire car and then followed it up with Ult. Polish on black pad. I was applying quite a bit of pressure on the yellow pad and did cross paterns slowly to get the most cut.

Applied both a synthetic and carnuba wax afterwards and things looked great....until I washed the car again and now I can see faint lines (not swirls) that match the same motions as I wash it. I am using a dual bucket method, top to bottom process and a foam cannon for the wash.

What am I doing wrong? Should I try a better compound/polish, buy a forced rotation DA buffer, microfiber pads instead of hex,etc?

Hoping some of you guys have experience with current Porsche paint and can give me some guidance. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

**Setec Astronomy** · 02-25-2016, 12:57 PM

If you indeed think the marring is wash-induced, then you need to work on your wash technique, otherwise you will simply be locked in a wash-polish cycle, which you don't want to be in for a number of reasons.

What kind of wash and dry media are you using, and what is your maintenance process on those?

**aknowlan22** · 02-25-2016, 01:34 PM

Originally Posted by Setec Astronomy

If you indeed think the marring is wash-induced, then you need to work on your wash technique, otherwise you will simply be locked in a wash-polish cycle, which you don't want to be in for a number of reasons.

What kind of wash and dry media are you using, and what is your maintenance process on those?

I spray the car off thoroughly, then soak it once with the foam gun and give it time to sit. While that is working, I clean the wheels with a wheel only microfiber wash mit. Once done with the wheels, I rinse off the car again, and start working from top to bottom, using the foam gun to spray the panel, use a microfiber mit to work the suds and a bucket with a grit guard to rinse the mit.

I think I have improved my wash technique to the point that it should not be creating new marks on the clear. I believe the marring I am still seeing on the car may have been from one of the following:

1) Meg. Ultimate Compound is not strong enough for my needs
2) Using the wrong technique... should I need to be using a yellow hex-logic pad and applying pressure to get swirl marks off a 6 month old Porsche
3) Are the products I am using just concealing the marks and not actually removing them?

Here is a video shot from my phone that shows the type of marks I am trying to get rid of: https://goo.gl/photos/Ea9z1UpK3z7TytqL6

And here are two still shots that show the swirl marks I was originally working on:
https://goo.gl/photos/msMUZ7qJc5o6AbdE9

**GSKR** · 02-25-2016, 01:58 PM

Originally Posted by knowlan22

Hi Guys,

I am really new to the detailing world and trying to learn as much as I can. Recently, I purchased a Porter Cable 7424XP along with a full set of Chemical Guys Hex-logic pads to start my collection. I already had some Meg. Ultimate Compound, SwirlX 2.0 and Meg. Ultimate Polish, and purchased HD Speed along with Chemical Guys VSS for one step solutions.

I have a Macan Turbo that recently came back from the dealer with a ton of swirl marks. I don't know if they were entirely responsible for the marks or if I just suddenly realized them on that particular day. Either way - I am determined to make the car look perfect again.

I taped off sections of my hood and tried a few different combinations of product and pads. I found HD Speed worked pretty well but didn't remove all the swirls. Since it was a one step solution that wasn't getting me to the point I wanted, I figured it wouldn't be a good idea to continue with it. Maybe it will be a good maitenance product for future details.

CG VSS left significantly more swirls so didn't think twice about this AIO. This left the multi step Meguiars which seemingly was removing 97% of scratches. I used a yellow pad with the Ult. Compound on the entire car and then followed it up with Ult. Polish on black pad. I was applying quite a bit of pressure on the yellow pad and did cross paterns slowly to get the most cut.

Applied both a synthetic and carnuba wax afterwards and things looked great....until I washed the car again and now I can see faint lines (not swirls) that match the same motions as I wash it. I am using a dual bucket method, top to bottom process and a foam cannon for the wash.

What am I doing wrong? Should I try a better compound/polish, buy a forced rotation DA buffer, microfiber pads instead of hex,etc?

Hoping some of you guys have experience with current Porsche paint and can give me some guidance. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Some pics would be great.what speed did you have your machine dialed in at cutting stage.

**Mike lambert** · 02-25-2016, 02:07 PM

My question would be were the defects gone when you finished the compound? I'm not familiar with those pads, but that process would seem ok. Maybe concentrate on technique and really look at the results. I wouldn't change products that have been proven to work until I knew for sure I was using them properly

**GSKR** · 02-25-2016, 02:10 PM

Originally Posted by aknowlan22

I spray the car off thoroughly, then soak it once with the foam gun and give it time to sit. While that is working, I clean the wheels with a wheel only microfiber wash mit. Once done with the wheels, I rinse off the car again, and start working from top to bottom, using the foam gun to spray the panel, use a microfiber mit to work the suds and a bucket with a grit guard to rinse the mit.

I think I have improved my wash technique to the point that it should not be creating new marks on the clear. I believe the marring I am still seeing on the car may have been from one of the following:

1) Meg. Ultimate Compound is not strong enough for my needs
2) Using the wrong technique... should I need to be using a yellow hex-logic pad and applying pressure to get swirl marks off a 6 month old Porsche
3) Are the products I am using just concealing the marks and not actually removing them?

Here is a video shot from my phone that shows the type of marks I am trying to get rid of: https://goo.gl/photos/Ea9z1UpK3z7TytqL6

And here are two still shots that show the swirl marks I was originally working on:
https://goo.gl/photos/msMUZ7qJc5o6AbdE9

There could be many reasons why you are getting them back again.First thing I would do is repolish with a micro cutting disk with some 205 meguairs,use ipa as a guide on each panel to ensure correcting.Top off with a paint sealant.As to washing don't let soap dwell on car.I have a black new ml merc that I wash with hair conditioner no ph and works great.

**aknowlan22** · 02-25-2016, 02:15 PM

Originally Posted by GSKR

Some pics would be great.what speed did you have your machine dialed in at cutting stage.

I will try to give it a quick wash tonight and take some clear pictures of the marring I am seeing.

I started with a orange pad at speed 5 for all the products. When I wasn't seeing results, I increased to speed 6 and used the yellow cutting pad.

For the polish, I think I stepped it down to a 5 speed... maybe even a 4. I will have to check my notes tonight and report back.

**aknowlan22** · 02-25-2016, 02:17 PM

Originally Posted by Mike lambert

My question would be were the defects gone when you finished the compound? I'm not familiar with those pads, but that process would seem ok. Maybe concentrate on technique and really look at the results. I wouldn't change products that have been proven to work until I knew for sure I was using them properly

Once I finished, I closely inspected with the overhead LED light, along with my Ryobi LED Spotlight and a Flex 993.100 Swirl Light Finder that I purchased from Amazon. To be honest, the overhead LED light in my garage did a better job of revealing the marring than the FLEX light...kinda disappointing.

**JeffM** · 02-25-2016, 02:51 PM

IPA when you think your done. Be careful with the yellow pad, it can haze the paint pretty good that a finishing polish and black pad wont get out.

**Eric@CherryOnTop** · 02-25-2016, 03:00 PM

If the Ultimate Compound is getting rid of most of your defects, I would follow that up with the HD Speed instead of the Ultimate Polish. That way you will have a nice protection layer when you are done and you know the Speed works.

It sounds like you have a pretty solid wash method too. It could be the wash media you are using is leaving the marks, but my guess is it's the way you are drying the car that is causing the marks. Forced air is the preferred way to dry, but if you must dry manually, I like to take a regular 16x16 MF towel and soak it in water then wring it out as much as possible. Microfiber is very absorbent once it is already wet like this. Use a high quality quick detailer to lubricate the towel as you *lightly* move it across the paint to dry. You can final buff any streaks with another light mist of detail spray and a dry microfiber.

I would advise avoiding IPA on your paint. It has zero lubrication properties and if you have finicky paint you are sure to induce towel marring if you are using IPA.