Being conservative with Iron X?

C

CC268

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Feb 22, 2013
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Hey guys,

I am just wondering if there is a way to be more conservative with Iron X. I used an entire 1L bottle on my truck and this stuff is just too costly to be going through an entire bottle. Should I be using less of it? Maybe dilute it with water?

Any suggestions?
 
You shouldn't need more than 16oz at most unless it is extremely contaminated. You can spread it with a dampened microfiber towel to help conserve product.

A cheaper alternative that works just as well is Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner and can be diluted 1:1 for use on paint.
 
jrock645 said:
is this stuff even necessary? I've tried it on two cars and got no purple action at all. Seems great in theory, but also seems like an unnecessary expense and a waste of time.
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Then those cars were not contaminated. It's actually a good thing not to see a color change because that means the car was clean but unless it is white or a very light color, you usually can't tell if there is contamination.
 
It find it depends where/how the car is used. I use Iron-X 2x/yr and see it change color every use. But the train goes past my office several times a day. My wife's car never seems to any contamination.
 
Honestly, as a hobbiest and newb with the goal of a clean and shiny car, i debated about getting Iron X. I decided not to get it, because i feel that its a product that only a detailer can appreciate, but to the average joe looking at your car, they probably can't tell the difference.
 
From the CarPro website:

1.-Shake the bottle.

2.-You can cover the surface with Iron X by spraying it everywhere but that can be wasteful. I recommend that you spray as needed and spread it with a small sponge or applicator to cover the entire surface. You may also consider using an atomizer type spray bottle or HVLP gun. In any case evenly cover the surfaces you wish to decontaminate. The product is strong so you don’t have to be wasteful. Just make sure it contacts the entire surface.

3.-Allow the product to dwell for 5 minutes in the shade. Do not allow it to dry in the sun. On light colored paints you will see the product dissolving ferrous particles as it turns color. On darker colored paints everything is happening in exactly the same way. It’s simply more difficult for you to view the color changing affect. I have read people saying the product works better on lighter colored cars but that is illogical and is not the case. It works the same regardless of car color.

4.-After allowing to dwell take a damp (not soaked) grout or other paint safe sponge (or other media if you prefer) and agitate the surface.

5.-Thoroughly rinse the surface.

Using this tip I use less than 8 oz to do a midsized wagon.
 
jrock645 said:
So how often are cars actually contaminated? If you need this stuff so bad and iron contamination is so deadly, yet the cars I've tried it on didn't need it.

I'm not bashing the product or the people, simply asking if its really necessary.
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I only used it when taking new delivery. Most commonly on cars transported by rail or if you see obvious iron spots. It's a good product but definitely something that is more of a nicety on most vehicles. It does work very well but I am interested to see 3D's offering if the price point is better.
 
Ive used it here in Upstate NY on 2 different cars and had VERY little contamination. I have also used it on some wheels and found they had tons of contamination.

Its not the products fault that the area you live in doesnt have much contamination. Is it needed for you? Probably not. What if you try a panel on the next car and SEE if there is a need for it? If not then you only wasted a little. Better to have and not need than need and not have
 
I only bought it cause i intend to do a coating. If I was just waxing I wouldn't even bother.
 
I buy it by the gallon. If you are offering coatings as a protection option you must make sure the surface is as clean as possible prior to sealing everything in.
 
I have switched over to the IronX paste. I use much less product and get the same results as the liquid. I do still use the liquid for wheel barrels when need though. I just did an S550 yesterday and might have used 2 ounces.
 
fly07sti said:
I have switched over to the IronX paste. I use much less product and get the same results as the liquid. I do still use the liquid for wheel barrels when need though. I just did an S550 yesterday and might have used 2 ounces.
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I'll be trying some Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner diluted 1:1 on my 2006 WRX STI. I've never used an iron remover before on it so we shall see how this goes. I have the world rally blue color. Will I be able to see the purple action on a darker paint? Thanks!
 
I use it because it makes claying easier. Contaminates usually wipe off easily after using a product like trix
 
medicscott said:
So some cars come up empty and others look like this. The stuff just works when it needs to.
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I also see an immediate difference in the paint color especially white after decontamination. For instance this car was a pearl color that you could not see the flakes until after IronX. Making cars have the deepest shine require prep. IronX is just 1 tool to make the overall finish that much better.

IMO if you are a professional you should absolutely be doing this step on a few test spots to see if the car requires Iron decontamination. Raise your prices if you need to but don't not offer this step as it does work well.
 
MaStA said:
I'll be trying some Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner diluted 1:1 on my 2006 WRX STI. I've never used an iron remover before on it so we shall see how this goes. I have the world rally blue color. Will I be able to see the purple action on a darker paint? Thanks!
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Are you planning on using the wheel cleaner on the paint? If your paint is. If your paint is contaminated enough, you will see the IronX working. I coated a WRB Sti in May and I was able to see the IronX change color. It will definitely clean the aftermath of your Brembo's on your wheels! And as others have said, it makes claying easier/faster. Just try it and see what it does. Make sure it's not to warm and you're not in direct sunlight if you can help it. Let it dwell on surface for 3-5 minutes. Then rinse thoroughly.
 
fly07sti said:
Are you planning on using the wheel cleaner on the paint? If your paint is. If your paint is contaminated enough, you will see the IronX working. I coated a WRB Sti in May and I was able to see the IronX change color. It will definitely clean the aftermath of your Brembo's on your wheels! And as others have said, it makes claying easier/faster. Just try it and see what it does. Make sure it's not to warm and you're not in direct sunlight if you can help it. Let it dwell on surface for 3-5 minutes. Then rinse thoroughly.
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Yes I plan to use it at the recommended 1:1 dilution ratio on paint. I ordered a gallon so if contamination isn't a problem I will simply use it as a wheel cleaner once the rest of my jug of P21S runs out. The struggle I will have is getting around the hot New Mexico sun. Looks like early morning or late evening will be the time I have to use the stuff, but if I need to clay, polish, and wax I will probably have to do it in the morning unless I want to stay up really late in my garage.

I figure I will be slightly conservative with it and use a microfiber or wash mitt to agitate/spread it out.
 
fly07sti said:
Are you planning on using the wheel cleaner on the paint? If your paint is. If your paint is contaminated enough, you will see the IronX working. I coated a WRB Sti in May and I was able to see the IronX change color. It will definitely clean the aftermath of your Brembo's on your wheels! And as others have said, it makes claying easier/faster. Just try it and see what it does. Make sure it's not to warm and you're not in direct sunlight if you can help it. Let it dwell on surface for 3-5 minutes. Then rinse thoroughly.
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They designed Deep Wheel Cleaner for paint as well despite the name.
 
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