Buffer Holograms

M

MikeC78

New member
May 16, 2014
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Hello gents!

I recently had the right side of my truck repainted. However, after the shops glaze wore off, I noticed rotary "grams". I'd take it back, but obviously the body shop would just make things worse.

I currently have a GG6 with their orange pads. I also have FG400, 45000, and Reflect. Question is, which is usually the cure for these nice body shop induced holograms? Thanks for any info.

Mike
 
Im gonna tell you what everyone else will. Try a test spot with the least aggressive (4500/reflect) and move up to fg400. You will need some fine polishing and finishing pads to really bring out the 4500.
 
Try 4500 with whit PED's first. If that doesn't work(it should) work the FG400 all the way down. Then inspect your progress to see if 4500 is necessary. On some paints, FG finishes down to LSP ready.
 
Thanks guys! Which white pads would I use or which brand/size particularly?
 
Mike - I would start with the lake country flat white pad with Reflect or SF4500. If that doesn't work move up to the FG400 on a white pad, if you need more cut then the FG400 on an orange pad. The FG400 is very versatile and finishes down extremly well.
 
FG400 sure is a big step from SF4500 or Reflect. I'd say if you're buying pads you could use more of a medium polish in your arsenal. Maybe something like SI1500 or Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover. Hopefully the SF4500 will take out those holograms for you.
 
I agree with Setec. I like to have something in between my heavy cut, and finishing polishes. Typically it's PF2500 from Menzerna, or M86 So1o from Meguiars.
 
I was thinking the same, I'll grab some 2500 while I order pads, just in case. I know FG400 is good stuff, but I'd rather save my clear as much possible. I've never used LC pads yet, as I've had descent luck with the GG pads so far. Thanks for all the help!
 
MikeC78 said:
Hello gents!

I recently had the right side of my truck repainted. However, after the shops glaze wore off, I noticed rotary "grams". I'd take it back, but obviously the body shop would just make things worse.
Click to expand...


Somewhere on this forum I share the problem with taking a car back to any shop that didn't do it right the first time.

The short version of the story is this...


If they couldn't do it right the first time.... they can't do it right the second time.

Why?

What's changed?

Do they now have a different tool?
Different compounds and polishes? (abrasive technology)
Different pads?
Different person with better technique?


I say no to all of those factors. What they typically do when a customer complains is "maybe" re-buff with whatever they call their "good stuff" and/or simply apply another coat of whatever glaze they use.

It's a lose/lose situation for the car owner and the final result is thinner paint.


What's ridiculous is it's so easy to do it right the first time.


MikeC78 said:
I currently have a GG6 with their orange pads. I also have FG400, 45000, and Reflect.
Click to expand...

The FG400 should take care of it with a polishing pad no problem. If the holograms are deep it might take a foam cutting pad.


MikeC78 said:
Question is, which is usually the cure for these nice body shop induced holograms? Thanks for any info.

Mike
Click to expand...


The real answer to your question is how difficult holograms are to remove depends upon how deep they are and how hard the paint is and with body shops you just never know. So do some testing but to make best use of your time I'd try the FG400 with a foam polishing pad and then inspect the results from your test.

Good luck...


:)
 
Thanks for the feedback, Mike!

The funny thing is, I've used this body shop in the past to remove holograms from another body shop. Obviously, the guy that use to work there, is not there anymore. Now, I'm back to square one! How lovely.
 
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