my first time using collinite 845

[MarkD51]

They bite on that "this wax gives a WARM glow...really make the paint POP" crap. Wax is a protectant, polish makes the car shine!

That's not really ultimately the purpose of these products, they are fore-mostly made to protect.

I think that's what you said, I just said it in a different way is all.

[mtndriver]

So I want to detail a new boat trailer in a couple of weeks. It is red and wondering if there would be any advantage to topping off the BFWD that I already have on hand with the Collonite 845 Insulator? BF is what I have been using on my vehicles past couple of years and it seems to give good protection and longevity so I'm up in the air about ordering additional products.

I was under the impression that with some products that if you top them off you are just removing that product in the process of applying the second one??

[DogRescuer]

So if I understand...

Collinite IS LSP product?

I was under the impression that high end waxes on top of collinite produces a deeper, wetter look.

Am I seeing this right?

Tom

Save your money stick with 845 as lsp

[DogRescuer]

So according to monguse---

Polishing IS where it's at...

So the success of the work (clarity, shine, depth) falls at the polishing stage---rite?

Tom

A big YES I've learned so much from these guys ( and bob in his own way lol)

[Don M]

Yeah, but you could say that about any product, really. 845 is tons easier to use than its thicker cousin 476S.

Time for porridge!

I have both the 476s and the 845 Insulator and the 476s IS a lot more difficult to use by machine anyway. When I tried to apply the 476s to my polishing pad and started applying it to the car, it wanted to make the pad collapse and become a really compressed mess...kind of like what UPW did with my finishing pads. The 'fix' for that was to move to a firmer polishing pad for application. So in this case does it mean that I should use an even firmer cutting pad to apply the 476s? Not that I'm dissatisfied with the 845 of course.

[jetman624]

I have both the 476s and the 845 Insulator and the 476s IS a lot more difficult to use by machine anyway. When I tried to apply the 476s to my polishing pad and started applying it to the car, it wanted to make the pad collapse and become a really compressed mess...kind of like what UPW did with my finishing pads. The 'fix' for that was to move to a firmer polishing pad for application. So in this case does it mean that I should use an even firmer cutting pad to apply the 476s? Not that I'm dissatisfied with the 845 of course.

Did you follow the the guidelines on the 476 product page on the AG website?

I am getting ready to apply 476 via machine, so curious...

[LSNAutoDetailing]

I just ordered 476 and 915. Should be here Thursday.
Can't wait to try!

[Stegs]

last night i worked on my 69 charger

did a wash (didnt dry the car)

then used a clay bar with mothers show time as a lube

washed the car again when i was done with the clay bar

dried

waxed 2 coats of collinite 845

My question is .....i waited about 10 min between collinite coats.

Too soon? doesnt matter?

each coat was left on for roughly 15 min to dry to a haze

[Don M]

Per Collinite, 845 is a pure (no cleaners) wax. You might not get the full affect of waiting a few hours, but you should be more than ok.

[snarl16]

I just wanted to chime in and say I used 476 a few weeks ago. It was my first experience with any Collinite products so I cannot compare to others but I thought it was extremely easy to use. I don't know why it gets a bad rap from people about being difficult to remove. I applied using a foam applicator pad to a couple of panels at a time and then went back and starting buffing off. It always came off without much problem at all. It was way easier to get off than some of the cheap OTC carnuba waxes I used growing up before I knew what good wax was. Based on what I read on the board, I let it sit for 12+ hours after the first coat and topped with a second. The beading is incredible!