Dr Colorchip??

[DaveT435]

I got on the highway not knowing they were grinding up the road before resurfacing. I started hearing an ungodly sound, like tiny peddles hitting the front of my car. What actually was hitting the front of my car were tiny shards of ash fault.

I slowed down to distance myself from the vehicle in front of me so they would be on the ground before I got to them, unfortunately cars started passing me on both sides so I had no choice but to drive the three miles to an exit.

I hope you can see it in the pictures. There are a couple bigger scratches and about 100 tiny holes in the paint, like the paint had been poked with needles. Most are through the clear.

I hope you can see what I'm talking about, some of the larger ones look like dark spots (black plastic bumper cover) and some look like little white dots. I assume these only went deep enough to hit the primer.

I know Dr Colorchip says it can repair road rash, but the examples I saw of road rash are much bigger scratches and chips.

Has anyone ever used Dr Colorchip to try to repair something like this?? Hope you can see what I'm talking about in the pics. Some of them didn't go all the way through the paint, but there are probably 100 of these all over the front of the car.

I thought about wet sanding to smooth them out as much as possible, but then I still have the issue of missing clear/paint.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Mike Phillips]

I'd say "yes".

If they are divots in the paint then it should work as well as anything and probably much easier.

[allenk4]

The #1 chip repair guy in LA uses Dr. Colorchip

[Mike Phillips]

The #1 chip repair guy in LA uses Dr. Colorchip

Is his name,

Quinn the Eskimo?

[allenk4]

Bang!

Yes sir!

[MarkD51]

Hi Dave,
Damn that's a bummer, I especially know how well you take care of your vehicles.

I agree, about all you can do is use something like the Dr C Chip unless you're wishing to go further and have the entire front clip resprayed.

Any chips-pits to the windshield?

I know in Dr C-Chips instructions and with such numerous light damage, I think they suggest just wiping the paint over large areas with a t-shirt dabbed with some of the paint, then spread, then going to work with the Sealact Leveling Solution afterward.

This might be one method, or to just use it conventionally, using the small Microfiber Applicators included in the kit.

I've found with my own kit that to clean the little MF Applicators, or other things like the Threads on the Glass Bottle and Cap, that Naptha (lighter fluid) works.

Oddly, some others might say this supposedly is not the solvent for this particular formulation of Paint, but I myself have found it works.

The one reason one wishes to keep the threads on the Paint Bottle clean is that after awhile the cap can become difficult to remove.

IMO, you will NOT get 100% results in hiding the damage, but it sure will look a heck of a lot better than it previously did, and the paint should offer future protection against corrosion-rust, and future products possibly making such small divots more noticeable. (I do know you are more the Coating type person though)

What you may notice after the C-Chip process, is a slightly duller finish than your factory paint. Even after polishing. Reckon there's little to be done about that.

In your particular instances of the damage you note, it maybe might be wise to order not only the complete kit, but also perhaps an additional bottle of the clear for the lesser damage in which maybe some areas just only look like pock marks in the clear?

The one beauty of the Dr C Chip product, is that one can begin to level within a mere 1/2 dozen minute's time, rather than waiting days upon end for touch up paint to fully dry. It also has a better tendency to stay put on vertical panels versus factory-duplicolor touch up which can run-sag.

Yes, there's the factory touch up option, but then there's "the Blobs", and I've personally found systems like Langka not all that easy to address such Blobs. And wet sanding after can be chancy-risky.

Hope this helps Dave,
Mark

[DaveT435]

Thank you everyone. My concern was that a lot of the holes are so small the product may not stay in them.

[MarkD51]

Hi Dave, I would say "smaller is better", as I know I've touched up some ultra small little ticks in the Tahoe's Paint with this system, and they literally disappeared, meaning I had an ultra hard time re-finding them, even with an eyeball just a few inches from the paint.

Once the paint is applied, then leveled it will pretty much stay put, even with DA'ing with Polishes.

The tricky part, and the learning curve with the Sealact Solution and such slight damage, it that the solution with the applicator towel be just merely, and very lightly wiped across the chip area. Almost with zero pressure applied, just letting the Solution act to dissolve any excess paint.

It's a pretty neat system, and I myself have no regrets purchasing my kit.
Mark

[Mike Phillips]

Bang!

Yes sir!

See post #11 in this thread,


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-disabled.html


I might forget the date of a birthday or anniversary, but my brain locks in and remembers anything detailing related and in most cases I share it in the forum world and with a few key search words it can be located.

[DaveT435]

Hi Dave,
Damn that's a bummer, I especially know how well you take care of your vehicles.

I agree, about all you can do is use something like the Dr C Chip unless you're wishing to go further and have the entire front clip resprayed.

Any chips-pits to the windshield?

I know in Dr C-Chips instructions and with such numerous light damage, I think they suggest just wiping the paint over large areas with a t-shirt dabbed with some of the paint, then spread, then going to work with the Sealact Leveling Solution afterward.

This might be one method, or to just use it conventionally, using the small Microfiber Applicators included in the kit.

I've found with my own kit that to clean the little MF Applicators, or other things like the Threads on the Glass Bottle and Cap, that Naptha (lighter fluid) works.

Oddly, some others might say this supposedly is not the solvent for this particular formulation of Paint, but I myself have found it works.

The one reason one wishes to keep the threads on the Paint Bottle clean is that after awhile the cap can become difficult to remove.

IMO, you will NOT get 100% results in hiding the damage, but it sure will look a heck of a lot better than it previously did, and the paint should offer future protection against corrosion-rust, and future products possibly making such small divots more noticeable. (I do know you are more the Coating type person though)

What you may notice after the C-Chip process, is a slightly duller finish than your factory paint. Even after polishing. Reckon there's little to be done about that.

In your particular instances of the damage you note, it maybe might be wise to order not only the complete kit, but also perhaps an additional bottle of the clear for the lesser damage in which maybe some areas just only look like pock marks in the clear?

The one beauty of the Dr C Chip product, is that one can begin to level within a mere 1/2 dozen minute's time, rather than waiting days upon end for touch up paint to fully dry. It also has a better tendency to stay put on vertical panels versus factory-duplicolor touch up which can run-sag.

Yes, there's the factory touch up option, but then there's "the Blobs", and I've personally found systems like Langka not all that easy to address such Blobs. And wet sanding after can be chancy-risky.

Hope this helps Dave,
Mark

Hey Mark,
I think I may have to do some wet sanding before using this product. most of these spots are tiny and the main reason you see them is the paint around them is raised if that makes any sense.