Trouble with S2000 Paint Correction and Meg's M205

**GettingStarted** · 10-01-2014, 12:57 PM

I was playing with M205 this morning and my bottle was still in its lotion like consistency although the remnants of some VRT I left in the garage is now at a water consistency. Think to say its safe to say its the heat.

**dlc95** · 10-01-2014, 01:03 PM

Do you have a white or blue Hex Logic pad available? The whit pad is firmer, and hold the abrasives to the paint better. The Blue is an open celled pad, and has the slightest bit of bite on it.

The blue Hex Logic, or green CCS pads are my typical starting point with m205/Ultimate Polish. The Hex Logic pads are very smooth running pads.

**expdetailing** · 10-01-2014, 01:10 PM

Retailers should be tracking their inventory. Where did you buy the M205 from?

**jaxtalonturbo** · 10-01-2014, 01:49 PM

Originally Posted by expdetailing

Retailers should be tracking their inventory. Where did you buy the M205 from?

Take a guess? Lol. But in fairness, everything else I've gotten from Palm Beach Motoring (aka autogeek) has been great, aside from UPS and Fedex damaging and losing some stuff on the way. I haven't contacted them about this yet.

**jaxtalonturbo** · 10-01-2014, 01:50 PM

Originally Posted by dlc95

Do you have a white or blue Hex Logic pad available? The whit pad is firmer, and hold the abrasives to the paint better. The Blue is an open celled pad, and has the slightest bit of bite on it.

The blue Hex Logic, or green CCS pads are my typical starting point with m205/Ultimate Polish. The Hex Logic pads are very smooth running pads.

I have the aqua green in the smaller pad. I have white ones, but they are much thicker and in 6.5" size, and I was going to try to use them with a Rupes 21. Should I try a different material with that pad on the Rupes?

**allenk4** · 10-01-2014, 02:00 PM

With M205:

What is your process for priming the pad?

How much "working product" are you adding to the pad for each section?

Are you cleaning on the fly?

I have used the CarPro Denim pads.

I hope you also purchased the 3" or 4" to do with the 5.3". Running the larger pad on curves, especially concave, will not yield good results and is likely to damage your paint

Proper backing plate fitment is essential. BP should go as close to the edge of the pad as possible, to get maximum cut

Working time with M105 will be very short, I had much better results with M100

If you are not a very patient person, this process is not for you

Use lots of tape

**jaxtalonturbo** · 10-01-2014, 05:23 PM

Originally Posted by allenk4

With M205:

What is your process for priming the pad?

How much "working product" are you adding to the pad for each section?

Are you cleaning on the fly?

I have used the CarPro Denim pads.

I hope you also purchased the 3" or 4" to do with the 5.3". Running the larger pad on curves, especially concave, will not yield good results and is likely to damage your paint

Proper backing plate fitment is essential. BP should go as close to the edge of the pad as possible, to get maximum cut

Working time with M105 will be very short, I had much better results with M100

If you are not a very patient person, this process is not for you

Use lots of tape

On foam pads I'll do a few spritz of pad conditioner, and three dime size blobs (the 205 I can't measure because it just pours like water). I'll use two dime size blobs for working product on each pass following, ditto for the carpro pads minus the pad conditioner step on first pass. I am cleaning the carpro pads on the fly with a brush, and I clean foam and microfiber pads on the fly with compressed air.

I also have some M100 around, I'll give that a shot on another panel and see how it goes. (actually I thought M100 was rotary only?) I am using my friend's car as a "test bed" of sorts, and I'm not aiming for full correction... I'm only using the denim pads for the larger flat panels such as the hood, trunk lid, doors, and parts of the bumper where the orange peel is heaviest, but as this is a vehicle for me to "test out" and get a feel for this stuff on, and due to the questionable amount of clear the painter put on, I'm not looking to knock it down all the way, just see how much I can make it look better with minimal time, effort, and material. I'll save all the effort and material for someone who's paying for my time to do it correctly after I have it all sorted.

**jaxtalonturbo** · 10-01-2014, 05:25 PM

Originally Posted by GettingStarted

I was playing with M205 this morning and my bottle was still in its lotion like consistency although the remnants of some VRT I left in the garage is now at a water consistency. Think to say its safe to say its the heat.

That sucks, I might just keep my compounds in the house then. Thing is, none of this stuff has been around for more than a week, and it's actually spent most of it's time here left in the boxes in the house until I pulled it all out a few days ago.

**Wes Bremec** · 10-01-2014, 05:38 PM

You need to step up your pad to possibly a more firmer one. Those black and grey finishing pads tend to soak up the polish before your able to work it into the paint. If you have some LC flat pads white or hydrotech pads better yet would help.i highly doubt the mm205 is garbaged.

**dlc95** · 10-01-2014, 07:56 PM

Originally Posted by jaxtalonturbo

I have the aqua green in the smaller pad. I have white ones, but they are much thicker and in 6.5" size, and I was going to try to use them with a Rupes 21. Should I try a different material with that pad on the Rupes?

The aqua green Hex Logic? That's a really versatile pad, and my initial compounding pad with m105, or UC. That pad should work well with m205 as well.