Help with Deep Scratches

**bartenderfloyd** · 08-26-2014, 10:56 AM

Good Morning,
My 2 yo nephew took a rock to the front and rear driver side doors (aka his kid canvas) and made what he thought was some lovely art. I washed, clayed, and compounded using Menzerna PG1000 with the LC Orange pad and then followed up with the PF2500 with the LC White Pad. The front came out almost perfect but as you can see, the rear driver door needs more help. Should I use different pads? Different compound? I use a DA right now but maybe a rotary? I'm looking for suggestions please.

**jamesboyy** · 08-26-2014, 12:24 PM

You could try the same menzerna pg1000, and orange pad method a few passes to see if anything will remove thought if don't then you either have the choice of getting that area repainted thought if you have the time, and or patience then slowly fill in those scratches/RIDS(front door) with a color, and clear coat mix then lightly sand, and buff

**bartenderfloyd** · 08-26-2014, 12:39 PM

Yeah, I've seen some great write ups about filling and sanding. I will use this as an excuse to try it out since I have never done that before. I was curious though if there is a step in between that I should do before sanding that may be less invasive. Also, I'm not afraid to spend money on new toys and products.

**jamesboyy** · 08-26-2014, 12:52 PM

Another way to level the repair would be with lacquer thinner, put some on a cotton swab, and light sweep across until leveled, then proceed to the buffing stage

**Kamakaz1961** · 08-26-2014, 01:08 PM

IMO, you need to wet sand those. It is too deep for a compound to correct. Again, this is my opinion. I just fixed my buddies car from a major key scratch. If you can feel the paint grab with your fingernails, it is too deep to repair 100%. However, with the right technique and patience, you will be able to fix most of it.

If you can't feel the scratch with your fingernails you are in good shape.

You will need 2000 grit sandpaper (that is what I use some may use other grit) and 2500 or 3000 (I have both). You need a sanding block and soak the sandpaper and lightly sand the areas. I know AGO has a How-to description, however, no video. Go on Youtube and search for that. I know Junkman2000 has one that you can really learn from.

Again, this IMO that no DA compounding will fix that. Wet sanding will. FOLLOWED by the DA compounding. The Orange Pad with Menz FG400 (I use) or equivalent and then White Pad and Menz SF4500 (or equivalent).

**allenk4** · 08-26-2014, 03:52 PM

Originally Posted by jamesboyy

Another way to level the repair would be with lacquer thinner, put some on a cotton swab, and light sweep across until leveled, then proceed to the buffing stage

Interesting advice

I have not heard of using lacquer thinner to level scratches

Have you personally used this technique successful?

Any pictures?

Interested to learn this new technique

**Dr_Pain** · 08-26-2014, 03:55 PM

Originally Posted by allenk4

Interesting advice

I have not heard of using lacquer thinner to level scratches

Have you personally used this technique successful?

Any pictures?

Interested to learn this new technique

I am pretty sure he was referencing leveling the blob of touch up paint. Larry (Ammo) has a video on leveling the blob on a Mercedes G-body. Tedious work!

**allenk4** · 08-26-2014, 04:05 PM

Originally Posted by Dr_Pain

I am pretty sure he was referencing leveling the blob of touch up paint. Larry (Ammo) has a video on leveling the blob on a Mercedes G-body. Tedious work!

Best Paint Touch-up Tricks: Mercedes G55 - YouTube

That makes a lot more sense

Using a cotton swab with that process will not yield good results. An old t-shirt will decrease the amount of paint pulled out of the repair

**Dr_Pain** · 08-26-2014, 04:14 PM

Originally Posted by allenk4

That makes a lot more sense

Using a cotton swab with that process will not yield good results. An old t-shirt will decrease the amount of paint pulled out of the repair

I personally think that neither options are very viable because of the fibers you may leave in the "softened" blob. Suede MF perhaps? wrapped around a credit card (a la Langka)

**allenk4** · 08-26-2014, 05:52 PM

Originally Posted by Dr_Pain

I personally think that neither options are very viable because of the fibers you may leave in the "softened" blob. Suede MF perhaps? wrapped around a credit card (a la Langka)

It is my understanding that a very old t-shirt is the key as it has almost no nap

I am planning on doing some touch-up soon

Deciding on plan of attack

Either Langka Blob Eliminator or Festool Denibber

Should be Fun