rust spots on white accord

**carguy** · 07-25-2007, 06:35 PM

a customer wants me to detail her white accord, she said they have rust dots on rear of car and rear bumper,and some on hood. I didn't take a look at it yet, had dental work done today, so is that called rail dust, metalic particles, what do you guys use to take this out? I dont think clay takes it out it just flattens it out. I heard a mixture of vinager and water mixture would do it. I need information guys and gals, just got my computer back after 4 weeks repair. Thanks

**sneek** · 07-25-2007, 06:39 PM

A Clay bar will do it, if it is rail dust. I would go over the area several times with the clay bar and then a dedicated paint cleaner. I am not sure if vinigar would do it, but it might.

**Bags** · 07-25-2007, 07:59 PM

My 2005 Honda Accord(white) had rust metal spots on the rear bumper. Clay shouls do the trick, You may need to do more than one pass but it should clear it up.

**carguy** · 07-25-2007, 08:34 PM

Originally Posted by Bags

My 2005 Honda Accord(white) had rust metal spots on the rear bumper. Clay shouls do the trick, You may need to do more than one pass but it should clear it up.

Now will the rust spots come back

/what causes i heard its from brake pads the metal that comes off get inbedded into the clear coat and from mositure its starts to rust, need to know this i have to insure this customer it will come out and not come back, 90percent of my clinetel is females and very fussy,wants everything nice they pay good money for there vehicles.

**Tonya** · 07-25-2007, 09:49 PM

Carguy do a search on rail rust. Al-53 had a great link from Ford. This should help!

**Bags** · 07-26-2007, 12:10 PM

No one can say if it comes back or not, regular washes and waxing or sealing can help prevent it. The rusted metal usually is the result of neglected cars, either cars that have been sitting on the back of the dealers lot or from people who dont ever wash or wax their cars. This is one of the reasons that I seal and then wax. I perfer durability over looks, and as long as you dont over do it sealed then waxed cars look great too. If this is going to be a regular client then claying the car every few months will pull the metal out before it show rust. Also where you live may cause more damage.

**Gnarboots11** · 07-26-2007, 12:21 PM

whats with the crazy font. i cant even read it, it's driving me insane.

**TOGWT** · 07-26-2007, 12:44 PM

Acid Decontamination and Neutralization:
Acids, which includes industrial fallout (IFO), rail dust, acid rain, hard water spots, road tar, bird excrement, acid residue, oxidation, adhesive residue, road grime and rust stains introduced via ferrous metal deposits and other forms of pollutants. If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated each time it comes into contact with water.

Water contains 2- hydrogen and 1-oxygen atom. Oxygen is an oxidizer; ozone is an allotropic form of oxygen (an oxidizer is any component that emits oxygen); many chemical compounds react to slight heating and an oxidizing process. So now you have an acid + water +oxygen + ozone all of which equates to a highly concentrated acidic solution, which causes a concave indentation (acid etching) on the paint surface, which will eventually compromise the paint system through to the clear coat.

This 3-part system from Automotive International - A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system
(http:// www.autoint.com) comprises; A-Acid Neutralizer, B-Alkaline Neutralizer (Use detailer’s clay and the alkaline wash to remove stubborn ‘water spots’) and C- a pH 7.0 Surface Conditioner, which safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination and neutralizes any residual acid from the painted finish. Any subsequent etching requires an abrasive to level the paint surface

System comprises:

A is an acid neutralizer that removes waxes, storage stains and neutralizes acid deposits, a solution of an 8:1 concentrate /clean water , allow to dwell for 5-7 minutes before rinsing.
B is an alkaline neutralizer, removes alkaline deposits and ferrous metal fallout, allow product to dwell for 5-7 minutes, works well with detailers clay to remove contaminants.
C is a pH 7.0 surface conditioner a128:1 concentrate vehicle wash and the third step in the neutralization process, which ensures any chemical residues, are neutralized and rinsed away.

Use separate wash mitt for products A and C, the use of the ValuGard Dispenser trigger spray container for products will ensure correct mix ratio and maximum economy

Information resource-Automotive International-http://www.autoint.com/

Product specific- http://www.autoint.com/tsb/tsb04-09-06.pdf

**Al-53** · 07-26-2007, 02:42 PM

I agree with Jon (TOGWT) 100%...the decom wash is the best way to rid of rail dust and fallout...Clay basically will snap the shards off but leave some behind..the decom wash removes them...

I sent Tonya all the info to give her dealership to do her care correctly...

the system is worth the money..and not expensive....Autoint has the best one....its used by most car Makers to use in new car prep...

I watched my truck get it when I bought it....very easy to use and do....follow directions and your set....

AL

**carguy** · 07-26-2007, 08:37 PM

Originally Posted by Al-53

I agree with Jon (TOGWT) 100%...the decom wash is the best way to rid of rail dust and fallout...Clay basically will snap the shards off but leave some behind..the decom wash removes them...

I sent Tonya all the info to give her dealership to do her care correctly...

the system is worth the money..and not expensive....Autoint has the best one....its used by most car Makers to use in new car prep...

I watched my truck get it when I bought it....very easy to use and do....follow directions and your set....

AL

Can i get it locally at a dearlership, i need it for saturday, customer wants a complete detail on her accord, would you know about what this process charge goes for how much i would charge for this service