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  1. #1
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    What's this and how do I fix it?

    I have recently purchased a 2007 Mercedes E63, which has black ceramiclear paint.

    I've given it a wash/compound /wax and it looks alright from a distance but a closer inspection shows the weird swirling in the photo below.

    Any suggestions on what it is and how I might be able to get it out?

  2. #2
    Super Member Just02896's Avatar
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    Re: What's this and how do I fix it?

    Looks kind of like rotary burn in the clear. Exactly which products did you use? Rotary or DA, which compound, etc?

  3. #3
    Super Member Andr3wilson's Avatar
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    That sort of looks like bad sanding marks that haven't been polishing out fully.

  4. #4
    Super Member mwoolfso's Avatar
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    Re: What's this and how do I fix it?

    Looks like that panel was repainted and the quality was not up-to-par. Do you feel those ridges as you swipe your had across the panel. If you don't feel them it's quite possible they are covered under layer(s) of clear or that it is just poor rotary skills.

    If you do feel them then take some thickness measurements and see if wet sanding is an opportunity. Certainly seek second opinions from a local detailer as being right in front is better than any assessment from pics. Lastly, related to sanding you need to factor Ceramiclear into the mix since sanding can possibly remove this layer of clear; which is not the end of the world but does change how you approach polishing in the future.

  5. #5
    Super Member Kevin Cullen's Avatar
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    Re: What's this and how do I fix it?

    Looks like someone buffed the paint with a rotory and wool pad before the paint had cured and it was soft.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just02896 View Post
    Looks kind of like rotary burn in the clear. Exactly which products did you use? Rotary or DA, which compound, etc?
    The only work I have done is by hand. Swirl-X, then Meg's ultimate polish then wax.





    Quote Originally Posted by mwoolfso View Post
    Looks like that panel was repainted and the quality was not up-to-par. Do you feel those ridges as you swipe your had across the panel. If you don't feel them it's quite possible they are covered under layer(s) of clear or that it is just poor rotary skills.

    If you do feel them then take some thickness measurements and see if wet sanding is an opportunity. Certainly seek second opinions from a local detailer as being right in front is better than any assessment from pics
    This is pretty much the way I am leaning . Can't feel them by hand. The quality of painting here in the UAE is awful, have seen work which looked like it was done with a house paint brush. My bet is that some clown has hit it with a rotary buffer too early, in addition to knowing sfa about how to use one and this is the result. Pity.

    Thanks for the input guys.

  7. #7
    Super Member Tato's Avatar
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    Re: What's this and how do I fix it?

    This may be a lot of things related to previous re-painting procedures as stated, but I'm +1 on the sanding marks not properly removed on this part you show in the pictures...

    If you're not comfortable with it sanding/polishing, you may need professional help for hand or (better) machine sanding with some 3000 discs, at least. However, before sanding, I'd always try a least abrasive approach first, to see how this defect would react.

    Remember, always use the least abrasive method to get the job done.

    Good luck, hope to hear about your outcome.

    Kind Regards.
    “Nature is pleased with simplicity. And nature is no dummy”

    ― Isaac Newton

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tato View Post
    This may be a lot of things related to previous re-painting procedures as stated, but I'm +1 on the sanding marks not properly removed on this part you show in the pictures...

    If you're not comfortable with it sanding/polishing, you may need professional help for hand or (better) machine sanding with some 3000 discs, at least. However, before sanding, I'd always try a least abrasive approach first, to see how this defect would react.

    Remember, always use the least abrasive method to get the job done.

    Good luck, hope to hear about your outcome.

    Kind Regards.
    Thanks Tato.

    I just took delivery of a G220v2 so will see what I can do. Any particular recommendations on what to start with? I see Wolfgang swirl remover gets a lot of good mentions, although I suppose as you say, start easy.

  9. #9
    Super Member Tato's Avatar
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    Re: What's this and how do I fix it?

    Hi,

    Working by machine will give you much more ability to tackle defects in the paint. I've worked by hand long ago and although getting decent results, no way to get 6000 perfect orbits (+ pad rotation) per minute with even pressure by hand...

    WG Swirl remover will be great for you to start because you can also adjust it's cut by the pad you're using. I'd start on it with a white polishing pad. Have you got any?

    Try to tape the area to get a 50/50 idea. Start on a SMALL area, mainly the size of a small MF towel (16x16) Work the product with moderate (but firm) pressure, spread the product over on speed 3, and then 'crank up' to 5 and work like said with slow arm speed during passes.

    Remove residue with MF towel and inspect results.

    Based on outcome, you'll know how to follow, just like this:

    - Intervention removed defects - Reproduce the method over the entire hood or even the car, whenever you have similar defects.

    - Intervention almost removed defects - This indicates you may try to work product at 6 speed and increase a bit the pressure, or step up to a cutting pad, like an orange cutting pad.

    - Intervention did not touched defects - If after stepping up on speed and pad, maybe you need to step up to a stronger compound, or even go to sanding.

    If you never wet sanded before, it's better to read a lot, use good sand papers/disc and even try first on a test panel or on a hidden area of vehicle, like some part lower in bumpers.

    Even that test on bumper maybe not sufficient, because paint on plastic parts responds (generally) differently to paint on metal parts. What I've observed is that on plastic paint seems to feel harder, and I (generally) step up the pad when polishing painted plastic bumpers IF I am to remove severe defects.


    PS: All typed above are hypothesis of how you should deal after analyzing the test spot.

    I mean, you should try the polishing pad and 'traditional' polishing technique and see how it responds. Based on that, you have to think and decide how to proceed - Step UP, DOWN, or Reproduce Success technique on the rest.

    Hope I've made it clear,

    Please, ask if you have any question.

    Kind Regards,

    Good luck.

    PS2: I also do have G220v2, so if you need support on the machine, also, contact me.
    “Nature is pleased with simplicity. And nature is no dummy”

    ― Isaac Newton

  10. #10
    Super Member Flash Gordon's Avatar
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    Re: What's this and how do I fix it?

    Looks like someone drew on your car with a green sharpie pen

    That other stuff looks like orange peal

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