All LSP's shot on lower panels; user error?

[MattyL]

Carried out my winter prep about a month ago. Put 6 different LSP's on various panels to compare with each other: collinite 915, Klasse Sealant Glaze, Duragloss 601/501 followed by 601/105, and DG 601/501 followed by 601/111, and BFWD. All panels were clayed and were prepped with paint cleanser, even the DG 501 panels!

Fast forward to yesterday; first wash since then bc of the cold weather we've been having. It has snowed 3 times in this span, which required road salt to be spread each time.

Problem is, the lower portions of every panel look like they're toast; water BARELY sheeting after cleaning.

So am I to believe the only way to protect against road salt is with a coating such as Opti-Coat? Was it something in my prep? I'm very disappointed given it has been only one month and just 3 road saltings, and these are supposed to be among the most protective products on the market besides a coating.

[zmcgovern45]

Remember, beading and sheeting can be effected by contamination.

Next time the car is clean, check those areas with the baggie test to determine if there are bonded surface contaminates that may be effecting the hydrophobic properties of the LSP.

Even coatings can experience this issue, but typically a quick iron x treatment and clay (if needed) will restore a coatings ability to sheet.

[bsmith0404]

I wouldn't necessarily say they are all shot, but seriously deteriorated. The salt products they use on roads these days is just plain NASTY!! They will take their toll on any LSP wax or sealant. The fact that they have been on there a month through 3 different salting sessions, your results are not surprising to me. During winter months you have to get that salt off as quickly as possible, don't let it dwell. I use a sealant with a wax over and reapply the wax every couple weeks. I have used different brands over the years with similar results. This year I have BF on my truck, and a combination of Hi-Temp and BF on the car. I've never used OC. Bottom line, winter months and nasty salt products result in limited durability with any product.

[spiralout462]

About a month ago I applied Wolfgang Deep Gloss Liquid Seal to my truck in preparation of a NW Pennsylvania trip. It snowed, sleeted or rained the whole time! After that 4 day voyage there was a significant degradation of the LSP. I found it interesting since I don't deal with that kind of road treatment on a regular basis. When and IF it snows on the Delmarva Peninsula the state and local authorities like to throw a bunch of sand on the roads.

[MattyL]

Remember, beading and sheeting can be effected by contamination.

Next time the car is clean, check those areas with the baggie test to determine if there are bonded surface contaminates that may be effecting the hydrophobic properties of the LSP.

Even coatings can experience this issue, but typically a quick iron x treatment and clay (if needed) will restore a coatings ability to sheet.

Clayed all the panels, can't remember if I mentioned that. I just had the expectation that these "protective heavyweights" would hold for at least a month, I mean c'mon. Wish I would have know this before I purchased all these different LSP's. The hype machine caught hold of me and tagged me hook,line, and sinker, wow!

Looks like a coating is in order for next year, if all I have to do is Iron-X it and maybe a clay.

I wouldn't necessarily say they are all shot, but seriously deteriorated. The salt products they use on roads these days is just plain NASTY!! They will take their toll on any LSP wax or sealant. The fact that they have been on there a month through 3 different salting sessions, your results are not surprising to me. During winter months you have to get that salt off as quickly as possible, don't let it dwell. I use a sealant with a wax over and reapply the wax every couple weeks. I have used different brands over the years with similar results. This year I have BF on my truck, and a combination of Hi-Temp and BF on the car. I've never used OC. Bottom line, winter months and nasty salt products result in limited durability with any product.

You're not kidding man. I was floored after realizing how corrosive this stuff is. And to do this after only 3 saltings? I put another coat of everything on the car yesterday and let it sit in the garage overnight, so maybe these new layers will make a difference. Just bought a tin of 1000p and picked up the Zaino system (ZAIO, Z5, ZFX) in a trade; now I regret both acquisitions, especially after finding out about Zaino's water-etching issues only AFTER I agreed to the trade.

The trials and tribulations of a noob!

[geekdout]

What paint cleanser did you use prior to applying all these different LSPs?
What method and products did you use on your recent wash ?

[Lexi65]

Remember, beading and sheeting can be effected by contamination.

Next time the car is clean, check those areas with the baggie test to determine if there are bonded surface contaminates that may be effecting the hydrophobic properties of the LSP.

Even coatings can experience this issue, but typically a quick iron x treatment and clay (if needed) will restore a coatings ability to sheet.

Can you actually clay bar after the Coating has already been applied? .

[cleanmycorolla]

Can you actually clay bar after the Coating has already been applied? .

of course, clay won't remove a coating

[goodinblack]

I personally feel that apart from true coatings like OP and Finest....... everything is Hype.

This includes wgdgps

845 is for looks imo. It looks great even on white.

[MattyL]

What paint cleanser did you use prior to applying all these different LSPs?
What method and products did you use on your recent wash ?

Wash,clayed, then:
KAIO underneath KSG
P21s Cleanser underneath the Collinite & BFWD
501/601 Underneath 601/105 601/111.

Are you seeing opposite results from what I am with any of these LSP's?

of course, clay won't remove a coating

Now THAT is cool. I have the Optimum Opti-Eraser & as long as it doesn't scratch the paint, I could decontaminate the car w/the eraser after every wash & keep it looking and feeling phenomenal. I wonder if "claying" that often with the Opti-Eraser would diminish the coating in any way though, given such a frequent amount of contact w/the paint?