Prepping for Opti-Coat 2.0 on a brand new car?

[SonyHome]

Hi,

This is my first post and I'm hoping someone here can provide me with some guidance as I'm pretty new to all of this.

I just purchase brand new 2014 Lexus IS350 and I would like to Opti-Coat 2.0 which I purchased from AutoGeek.net. Since I live in MN where temperatures are currently ~ zero degrees and can't pressure wash my car so my plan was to:

• Drive Thru touch-less wash and dry
• Hand wash in my garage (Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: clay lubricant, optimum rinseless wash, no rinse car wash, optimum detailing products) Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine[/url]
• Clay (Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System : Amazon.com : Automotive)
• Compound (Amazon.com: 3M 39060 Perfect-It Rubbing Compound - 16 oz.: Automotive)
• Polish (3M 06068 Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish - 1 Quart : Amazon.com : Automotive)
• Wipe down with alcohol
• Apply Opti-Coat 2.0 to my car, trim, headlights, taillights, wheel and glass.

My questions are:

• Since this is brand new car coming directly from factory as special order do I need to clay and/or compound the car before polishing? I'm asking the dealer to not to buff or wash the car unless it is touch-free and air dry only so no one should be touching the paint with anything before I get it.
• Are the 3M compound and polish ok to use for my purpose?
• Is it ok to apply Opti-Coat 2.0 at temperatures that would be ~ 0 - 30 degrees?
• With the cold weather how long do I need to let the Opti-Coat 2.0 set before I start driving?
• I will be doing Paint Protection Film over the Opti-Coat 2.0 after couple weeks. Would there be any issues with this?

Thank you for any advise in advance.

[MarkD51]

You make no mention of having a heated Garage?

Without the use of a heated Garage, I'm afraid you will be out of luck with virtually all processes you wish to do.

No wax, sealant, and especially a coating is going to work at temps such as that, and I would say even 50 degrees would be pushing it with any Coating.

Sure, claying wouldn't be a no no, but not sure why you would even consider needing the use of a compound on a brand new vehicle?
But even claying, onto ice cold paint just isn't going to work.

What I would probably do if I was in your position, and could at least get access to a heated garage with at least 50-55 degree temps for a few hours, is just put a coat of wax on it for now, and some good protectant on vinyl, and rubber.

Something like Collinite 845 Insulator Wax, while not as easy to work at 50 degrees like it would be at 70, you'd be able to apply it, and remove it without causing some serious weird things to your paint.

Think of something like this to at least give some decent protection on the vehicle until the warmer weather comes. And for you, that would probably be 5-6 months from now.

Others might have some other ideas, but I think all will agree that something like the coating in very cold temps is just not going to work correctly.
Mark

[MarkD51]

Sorry, I re-read you post, and do see you make mention of a Garage.

I also wish to welcome you to the forum!

[SonyHome]

Thank you for your reply! I really appreciate it.

My garage is not heated although it is indoors and I could put my space heater near by. I don't think the temperature in the garage would be more than 30 or 40 degrees.

Thanks for confirming that no compounding is needed for brand new car.

[MarkD51]

I've never used Opti-Coat, but have read enough threads-posts about it during my year of membership here, and to say that the use of this product in such conditions will be a no-go.

I myself personally wouldn't chance it, especially a brand spanking new expensive vehicle like this, even probably at 50 degrees, with a forced air heater of some sort in the garage.

Not always living here in the southwest, I lived the first 48 years of my life in both Chicago, and Sheboygan Wisc, so I am familiar with car care in cold temps.

In Chicago, I had a 45,000 BTU forced air Torpedo Propane Fired Heater which would at least permit me to do wipe downs, and some limited amount of cleaning, and some waxing.

A heater such as something like this might help with minor work, but I'd still be leery of the use of a Coating like Opti-Coat.

The other thoughts about the use of such heaters in limited spaces, is they can be quite dangerous since for one, they are not vented. With heat also comes carbon monoxide, and also the depletion of oxygen in closed areas. Not to mention the possible fire hazards.

I still would say hang onto all your goodies until the warmer weather comes, that they'll be there for you to use at that time.

A conventional wax will be able to be easily removed with the proper prep products for Opti-Coat when the warmer weather comes.

A true dilemma IMO, but this is just my opinion, perhaps others will comment, and can offer some other advice, and ideas?
Best of luck with your new vehicle. Mark

PS: I gather Opti-Coat, even under prime conditions has a somewhat slow cure time. Under less that proper conditions, and in such cold, Opti-Coat may possibly never dry. For sure it won't dry correctly.

[SonyHome]

I've never used Opti-Coat, but have read enough threads-posts about it during my year of membership here, and to say that the use of this product in such conditions will be a no-go.

I myself personally wouldn't chance it, especially a brand spanking new expensive vehicle like this, even probably at 50 degrees, with a forced air heater of some sort in the garage.

Not always living here in the southwest, I lived the first 48 years of my life in both Chicago, and Sheboygan Wisc, so I am familiar with car care in cold temps.

In Chicago, I had a 45,000 BTU forced air Torpedo Propane Fired Heater which would at least permit me to do wipe downs, and some limited amount of cleaning, and some waxing.

A heater such as something like this might help with minor work, but I'd still be leery of the use of a Coating like Opti-Coat.

The other thoughts about the use of such heaters in limited spaces, is they can be quite dangerous since for one, they are not vented. With heat also comes carbon monoxide, and also the depletion of oxygen in closed areas. Not to mention the possible fire hazards.

I still would say hang onto all your goodies until the warmer weather comes, that they'll be there for you to use at that time.

A conventional wax will be able to be easily removed with the proper prep products for Opti-Coat when the warmer weather comes.

A true dilemma IMO, but this is just my opinion, perhaps others will comment, and can offer some other advice, and ideas?
Best of luck with your new vehicle. Mark

PS: I gather Opti-Coat, even under prime conditions has a somewhat slow cure time. Under less that proper conditions, and in such cold, Opti-Coat may possibly never dry. For sure it won't dry correctly.

I do also have 60,000 btu weber propane grill in the garage I could use to heat up.

It gets little more complicated since I want to do the paint protection film soon. I would like to polish and opti-coat before they PPF the full bumper, full hood and full fender.

If opti-coat can't be applied perhaps I could at least clay & polish but you mentioned clay also may not work in 30 - 40 degree temps either. If my car doesn't need clay is there any issues just polishing in 30 - 40 degrees? I bought Dewalt 849x for this.

[Munich77]

Check with your installer for the PPF. Mine told me not to put a coating under the PPF because the PPF might not adhere properly.

[HateSwirls]

Very well said

You make no mention of having a heated Garage?

Without the use of a heated Garage, I'm afraid you will be out of luck with virtually all processes you wish to do.

No wax, sealant, and especially a coating is going to work at temps such as that, and I would say even 50 degrees would be pushing it with any Coating.

Sure, claying wouldn't be a no no, but not sure why you would even consider needing the use of a compound on a brand new vehicle?
But even claying, onto ice cold paint just isn't going to work.

What I would probably do if I was in your position, and could at least get access to a heated garage with at least 50-55 degree temps for a few hours, is just put a coat of wax on it for now, and some good protectant on vinyl, and rubber.

Something like Collinite 845 Insulator Wax, while not as easy to work at 50 degrees like it would be at 70, you'd be able to apply it, and remove it without causing some serious weird things to your paint.

Think of something like this to at least give some decent protection on the vehicle until the warmer weather comes. And for you, that would probably be 5-6 months from now.

Others might have some other ideas, but I think all will agree that something like the coating in very cold temps is just not going to work correctly.
Mark

[ski2]

MarkD51's recommendations are spot on!!

A couple of other thoughts:
You mention you purchased a Dewault 849--are you aware this is a direct drive rotary polisher--if you don't have considerable experience with this type of polisher you should return it ASAP and purchase a Random Orbital Dual Action polisher like the Griots, Porter Cable or Megs. You can cause serious damage quickly with a Rotary polisher like the Dewault if you don't know how to use it.

Also, there are many better and safer polishing products available than the 3M products that are much easier and safer to use--especially if you are new to machine polishing. You may not even need a compound since the car is new.

[MarkD51]

I do also have 60,000 btu weber propane grill in the garage I could use to heat up.

It gets little more complicated since I want to do the paint protection film soon. I would like to polish and opti-coat before they PPF the full bumper, full hood and full fender.

If opti-coat can't be applied perhaps I could at least clay & polish but you mentioned clay also may not work in 30 - 40 degree temps either. If my car doesn't need clay is there any issues just polishing in 30 - 40 degrees? I bought Dewalt 849x for this.

Again my friend, using such to heat a garage can be quite dangerous, and deadly. There's been many people who have succumbed to doing such, like trying to heat houses with kitchen stoves, and other makeshift heaters. Again, carbon monoxide is deadly, odorless.

Once I was using my propane bullet in my two-car garage in Chicago. Temps were about 15 degrees outside roughly. The heater had been running for a good 45 minutes, was getting some waxing done, and was working fine. Then I went to light a cigarette, and a Zippo Lighter which I had just filled earlier that morning was not lighting?

Muttering to myself as to why, and saying this is strange, it isn't lighting and I just filled it?! What the ^%&?. Then it hit me, there's no oxygen in the garage, the propane heater was using it all up!

Sure enough, I hit the overhead door switch, opened the door about a foot, the cold air came rushing in, and sure enough, the lighter lit immediately after that. That day I learned an unknown to me danger, not necessarily carbon monoxide, but lack of oxygen.

A proper installation would require venting a properly designed heater for such installations..

Most garages are extremely difficult to heat. Most usually have a concrete floor which you could say is just like one big giant block of ice. And most common garages aren't insulated. That just doing a simple wipe down with a warm bucket of water is difficult, and surely isn't like doing it on a 65-70 degree day.

A man I know down here has a heated machine shop with a vented heater, where he has his equipment, and a stored Mercedes Benz classic, and it takes a good couple of hours to get the shop to warm up to comfortable temps. And that's here in New Mexico with our wintertime.

Most of us who face relatively cold winters due to location usually prep and protect our vehicles before the cold weather hits, but you don't have that option with this new vehicle that's coming.
Mark