Plastic Bumpers

**6LS2** · 06-24-2007, 08:26 AM

Hey guys. Im detailing a white R33 Skyline this weekend, and the side and rear bumpers are plastic. What do you suggest I do? The rear bumper has some black scuff marks, should I just do the normal process as I normally would? Thanks

6LS2

**sparkie** · 06-25-2007, 04:38 AM

Originally Posted by 6LS2

Hey guys. Im detailing a white R33 Skyline this weekend, and the side and rear bumpers are plastic. What do you suggest I do? The rear bumper has some black scuff marks, should I just do the normal process as I normally would? Thanks

6LS2

Need some pics. Not sure what a R33 Skyline is....

**Quick5Oh** · 06-25-2007, 11:47 AM

This is an r33.

**Truls** · 06-25-2007, 12:00 PM

Mmmmm skyline...we def need more pics of that car 6LS2

Ordinary painted bumpers?

If so, i know Toto is using a Festool (DA type) on the bumpers so he dont burn it. ive have made burnmarks on my wifes car with rotary and (hard) pad, so if you go with rotary i would use softer pad and less speed.

**sparkie** · 06-25-2007, 08:22 PM

Originally Posted by Truls

Mmmmm skyline...we def need more pics of that car 6LS2

Ordinary painted bumpers?

If so, i know Toto is using a Festool (DA type) on the bumpers so he dont burn it. ive have made burnmarks on my wifes car with rotary and (hard) pad, so if you go with rotary i would use softer pad and less speed.

They look like painted bumpers.... KlasseAIO, XMT360 or Duragloss #101 any of them should take care of them scuff......

**6LS2** · 06-26-2007, 12:42 AM

Sweet, always great help. Thanks.

6LS2

**Totoland Mach** · 06-26-2007, 10:14 AM

6LS2: painted plastic is very finicky for correction. The biggest issue is getting an area too hot and melting the paint/plastic. There is a fine line between a correction temperature and too hot...and if you cross it, the area wrinkles or burns completely in a second or two.

I typically use the Festool Rotex and the Meguiar's #7006 cutting pad with a light compound such as Optimum. I start working the scratches/gouges and use my forearm as a temperature sensor. If the area starts to get hot, I work another area of the bumper while it cools down. It also helps to have a fan blowing on your work area to dissipate heat. Unlike metal which cools fairly quickly, plastic retains heat longer. Light pressure and repitition are the methods of plastic paint correction.

If you do a search of some of the BMW bumpers I've corrected, you'll see what steps I took and the methods.

Hope that helps.

Toto