Pure insanity

[cmoneyinc]

Ok fellas, I'm new to this forum and there seems to be alot of knowledgeable people on here and a ton of good information. So let me get right down to it. I have a white 2011 Mercedes-Benz GLK 350. A few months ago I had it "detailed" and asked the detailer to remove all the swirls in it before he waxed it. Now don't get me wrong, the vehicle is not trashed and is well taken care of, but had the classic swirl marks in it due to improper washing and drying technique (which I have since corrected). I got the vehicle back from the detailer and it looked cleaned and waxed, but swirls were still there. I don't have alot of faith in "local" detailers anyway, so I kind of expected less than perfect results. I know thats sad but it is what it is.

As they say, "If you want it done right, do it yourself." So I decided to start doing some research on how to correct the paint myself. Being new to paint correction, I was obviously timid and nervous, as I didn't want to cause any more self-inflicted damage to my baby. After doing a ton of research on paint correction and detailing in general, I decided a safe option was the Porter Cable 7424XP and I pulled the trigger on it.

Now I was faced with the daunting task of deciding what pad/product combination I needed to correct the paint. At first, inexperienced glance, I thought the vehicle only had "light swirling." But after purchasing a Brinkmann Dual Xenon inspection light and doing more reading and research, I realized that the vehicle had some significant swirling and RIDS. The vehicle is white and the paint is glossy, so its hard to tell with the naked eye, but the defects are there.

I ended up purchasing Chemical Guys products, due to the fact that during my initial research they seemed to have a lot of detailed, informative videos. I started with V36 and V38 and a set of their 5.5 inch Hex Logic pads with their 5 inch backing plate. I went to work and failed miserably on my first try, realizing now that it was mainly due to poor technique. Back to my research. After watching countless 7424 technique videos and reading many articles, threads & posts, I went back to work. This time I got better results, but not perfect. I was still having trouble removing deeper swirls and RIDS.

I then decided to step it up a notch and try V34, which was now moving me out of the safe, cushy world of polish and into the compounding scene. The fist test spot I did with V34 was on a small section on the rear tailgate and the results were fantastic (Orange Hex Logic Pad). I'd say about 95%. I finished it with V38 on a white hex logic and I thought I was good to go.

So the next day I thought I'd try another panel - passenger side rear door (keep in mind I am washing and claying before polishing on each attempt). I went for the same combo: V34 with orange pad. This time the correction was not so great. Swirls seemed to be gone, but many RIDS remained. The only option I had at that time was to step up to the yellow hex logic heavy cutting pad with the V34. I tried again and the rids were still there and there even seemed to be some micro-marring. I was using proper technique (50/50 overlapping passes, 4-6 section passes until product flashes, medium pressure with my black sharpie mark on the backing plate to ensure proper pad rotation, primed the pad with Chemical Guys pad conditioner, used 5 pea-sized drops of product - just like in the chemical guys videos for about a 2' X 2' area). Being out of options and time for that day, I just tried to refine the finish with V38 and then put some Chemical Guys M-Seal on the section I did to protect it in case I didn't get back to that panel in a while.

The next day I decided to try a different panel, a 2' X 2' section of the hood. Washed it (waterless Ecosmart), clayed it, and went at it with V34 and an orange hex logic with good technique. Same result as door, removed any swirling but many RIDS remained. I also think that the reason it worked so well on the tailgate is because I believe that was re-painted at some point (which the scumbag dealer never mentioned and there was a clear Crafax on it and it was a certified pre-owned at a reputable Mercedes dealership - oh well, live & learn). The detailer even mentioned to me that he believed the tailgate had been re-painted based on his experience. That could explain why I was getting proper cut there, because it probably isn't the hard ceramic clear coat that Mercedes uses from the factory and thats on the rest of my vehicle....hopefully.

So back to research and my current dilemma. The more I read, the more I'm pulled in different directions. Flat pads, foam pads, microfiber pads, try smaller pads, try bigger pads, miracle spray-on compound, "Hey look over here, Menzerna FG 400 is the best," "No, look over here, Meguiars M101 is the best".........PURE INSANITY!!! There's almost too much information out there to handle.

Now I know some of you are going to say every paint is different and you have to adapt to your situation accordingly, and I agree. So here's my situation: I want to stay with the 7424XP, no interest in different or higher powered machines at this point. I have no problem getting or trying new products or pads, but don't want to go broke trying everything under the sun until something works. I already purchased 4" hex logic foam pads and I do have some 5.5 inch Chemical Guys Black Ops Microfiber Pads (the cutting and polishing ones) on the way, but haven't tried any of them yet. I've taken from my research that Microfiber pads have more cut than foam, so that was my thought process in trying them. I also bought a pad conditioning brush and I already have the Grit Guard Pad Washer system that I use for my foam hex logics.

So I guess my question is this: Knowing my situation and the current equipment I have, what is the next step?? I have heard alot of good things about FG 400 and M101 and was considering trying M101, but I'm also aware that they are said to be fairly aggressive compounds which is kinda scary. I was also thinking of getting some LC Hydro-Tech flat pads, because I've read they work better with the PC, especially with water-based products.

Any help or advice to sort through this overwhelming sea of information would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks!

[Boudin]

I think you have the right idea, however if you go with microfiber pads you really need compressed air to clean them out after each section, they cake up pretty easily.

I would go with FG400 since its designed for ceramic clear, and try that with your current pads. Also keep in mind you may have deeper RIDS that arent worth chasing and losing clearcoat.

This might help also..

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...lear-coat.html

[cleanmycorolla]

Lengthy read. Basically sometimes you have to live with RIDS. Also, you should try and find out more about your car. See if it was repainted. You might want to look into Menz polishes.

[cmoneyinc]

Thanks, I hear ya. Although I've seen videos of guys wacking away at vehicles with softer paint than mine with M101 with seemingly no adverse effect, but I could indeed be wrong.

As far as cleaning the microfiber pads, do you think the pad cleaning & conditioning brush would work well for them? I saw a video from Adam's Polishes that showed them cleaning their microfiber pads (which look very similar in construction to the Chemical Guys ones) on the fly and they were using the same brush I purchased.

Thanks

[c8n]

If the yellow pads are hazing the paint, then my guess is that the combo is a bit too aggressive. If i were you, i would stick with the orange pads and go at it longer... morepasses and use a smaller pad for spot corrections on the rids.

[cmoneyinc]

Yeah sorry about the lengthy original post, just wanted you guys to have all the info about my situation.

[JHL88]

IME if you want to eliminate the RIDS you need to go with a focus pad (4inch pad) on a drill if you have one. Forced rotation plus a smaller pad will concentrate on the area of concern. Now, you being new to this you may want more experience paint correcting. You could run the risk of burning through your clear pretty easily with this method if unexperienced.

A second option would be buying a smaller backing plate for your PC that would accomodate a 4inch pad. It will take you longer than a rotary-like tool but its a lot safer. Obviously using the more aggressive products like FG400, M105, V34 etc.

If you do decide to use a drill just remember to always keep it moving!

[cmoneyinc]

I do have the 3 1/2 inch backing plate for the PC that accommodates the 4" pads. The problem with the RIDS is that theres quite a bit of them. So should I just work the same size area (approx 2' X 2') with the smaller pads that I was working with the 5 1/2" pads, or do I need to focus on each individual RIDS as spot correction?

Thanks

[JHL88]

I do have the 3 1/2 inch backing plate for the PC that accommodates the 4" pads. The problem with the RIDS is that theres quite a bit of them. So should I just work the same size area (approx 2' X 2') with the smaller pads that I was working with the 5 1/2" pads, or do I need to focus on each individual RIDS as spot correction?

Thanks

Honestly you're going to have to make a choice. Im assuming it is your daily driver?

If you have many RIDS it would be wise to break it up into sessions (hood one day, doors next day etc.) This was easy for me when I had my corvette because it stayed in the garage and I daily drove a f150.

For a daily driver, most people will not strive for perfection. Maybe 80-90%. I would tackle the ones that stand out most or ones that you are bothered by the most. Or it could be the other way around as well, like the ones that are easily removed so you can achieve more in a less amount of time. It's up to you.

To answer your question, for me I concentrate on the RIDS individually. you'd be wasting time, product & effort doing a 2x2 section with a 4inch pad to remove RIDS IMO unless they are close together. Like i said it's up to you and what you think your time & effort is worth. You'll just have to step back and assess the situation.

[Vegas Transplant]

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...hind-term.html

Urban Dictionary: insanity