Tree Sap Woes, Please Help!

**MarkD51** · 07-31-2013, 03:34 PM

Hello Folks,
Today I set out to clay my Magenta 2001 Kia Spectra, as about a week ago, the baggie test on the hood was revealing lots of "bumps"

Figuring I was maybe due for Claying again, and after a wash, out came the Pinnacle Blue Bar. Again, no good, two total passes on the roof, and it was not much different, just too mild (or so I'm thinking). Then broke out the Yellow Mother's Bar, and again, after about 6 complete passes on one side, it was almost there, but still very hard, and I was being literally worked to death. With each time I clayed, it was getting better and better.

Thinking I maybe needed something more aggressive, the only thing I could think of and do, was run over to the local paint supply shop, and decided to try a Red Medium Grade Clay Magic Bar. When he rang up the bill, I was shocked, with tax one Bar was $34! Holey Moley!

This aspect of trying to keep the finish "bump free" is getting ridiculous, and as well emptying my bank account trying to keep up here.

(The Tahoe put me through the same back breaking work a few months back)

It should be noted, that on any of the Clay Bars, no real dirts were being pulled off the paint, and shown on the Clay. This appears to be evidence that this is not some sort of contaminant fallout, but Tree Sap. I have two Italian Cyprus Trees, and another "regular" type tree, perhaps a Poplar within about 100' of the vehicle. Where I park at work, there are no Trees.

Please help me folks, there has to be a better way, a faster way and a less expensive way to go about this?

The money, and hard work spent are killing me physically, and financially.

Can something else be used, without the hard work, lower cost, and be effective, without damaging the finish? A Prep Solv perhaps, or?

Thanks, Mark

**eff** · 07-31-2013, 03:42 PM

Get some Meguair's Ultimate Compound and buff out the sap. It has probably etched your paint and that is why the clay isn't doing much. After that, put two coats of your favorite wax or sealant and you should be protected.

You can get the Megauir's Compound for only $9.99:
Meguiars Ultimate Compound, polishing compound, rubbing compound, meguiars rubbing compound, meguires, meguiars polish, auto compound polish

It will get the job done and you won't break the bank!

**BlackHawk** · 07-31-2013, 03:51 PM

^^ why would you use a compound so soon?? That's horrible advice

OP I recommend a PAINT CLEANER like duragloss 501 with a white pad. Should work very well and it won't remove any clear coat...

**beamerstrumpet** · 07-31-2013, 04:01 PM

Originally Posted by BlackHawk

^^ why would you use a compound so soon?? That's horrible advice

OP I recommend a PAINT CLEANER like duragloss 501 with a white pad. Should work very well and it won't remove any clear coat...

+1 If you want something quick the Megs Deep crystal step 1 paint cleaner. It is very nice also and you can get it almost anywhere. White pad or maybe try a black pad since its a little less aggressive I would think.

**MarkD51** · 07-31-2013, 04:19 PM

Originally Posted by BlackHawk

^^ why would you use a compound so soon?? That's horrible advice

OP I recommend a PAINT CLEANER like duragloss 501 with a white pad. Should work very well and it won't remove any clear coat...

This sounds like one much easier way to deal with the problem, in that I have #501, plenty of 5.5" White Flat LC Pads, and using the PC7424XP would sure be a lot easier on my body.

I gather that you're saying that the chemical action of the solvents in 501 would "cut-dissolve" the Sap?

Perhaps one downside, is that I'm planning on also doing a mild paint correction with Menz SF4500, and applying another type of Coating this time (Detailer's Pro), and the 501 might work me in another fashion, in trying to again strip the paint of this Sealant?

I don't have the Detailer's Pro Paint Cleaning product on hand, hoping that the polish, and a final wipe with CP Eraser will suffice to prep the paint for the Coating?

What about a product like the Nanoskin Speedy Prep Sponges? Are these Sponges also effective on removing Tree Sap, and would they possibly be quicker, easier, and less expensive than Clay?
Mark

**BlackHawk** · 07-31-2013, 06:10 PM

You can polish with sf4500 after the 501 no problem.

**van185** · 08-01-2013, 11:13 AM

I do not have Cyprus Trees where I live so I can't speak about that, but I do have pine trees and often times I clean vehicles with dried on pine sap on the body. You can clay it and it will not come off so I normally spay a ittle Tarminator on the spot and it usually wipes right off and smooths up. I have had some spots that I have to spray Tarminator and use a plastic razor bade to remove the sap. Afterwards I will polish and wax the area. No saying this wil help your problem but it does work on dried pine sap.

**Meticulous-Detail** · 08-01-2013, 12:51 PM

Some products methods I have used for Sap:

Tarminator
3M Adheisve Remover
IPA mix
Straight IPA
Purell Hand Sanitizer

**beamerstrumpet** · 08-01-2013, 04:28 PM

Originally Posted by Meticulous-Detail

Some products methods I have used for Sap:

Tarminator
3M Adheisve Remover
IPA mix
Straight IPA
Purell Hand Sanitizer

Purell is just 70% Alcohol so its the same as an IPA.

Just thought of trying Naptha also. wear golves!,, but its a great cleaner for paint prep also. it will take all your protection off, but so does any paint cleaner. As mentioned, the deep crystal works very well on everything else. clay for after that. at least thats how I do it.

**pman626** · 08-01-2013, 04:41 PM

WD40 usually removes all kinds of gunk from paint.

I get small pinpoint size dried sap all the time, and I use a credit card against the edge of the sap to break the bond between the sap and paint. I use both hands to control pressure so the card doesn't travel more than it needs to.

Claybars are useless in my case. The sap just carves lines into the clay.