1 step vs 2 step? Business owners welcome.

[nissenc1337]

In my head a 1 step is compounding and 2 step is compounding followed by a polish, waxing/glazing is understood.

So, is it not typical that you ALWAYS follow up a compounding with a polish? I know compounding can yield some good results but polish really gets the results you want.

So, do the majority of detail shops differentiate between the two?

[thebamboo23]

Wash, clay, compound, polish, glaze, sealant, wax, spray wax

You can do a 1 step with a compound, but make sure it finishing off very well

Compound leaves slight haze, finer scratches, and other small imperfection. Might as well do an AIO

[jgibson2980]

Start with the least aggressive . A one step to me is a polish followed by a sealer or wax . Or a one step could be a aio or cleaner wax.

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[VP Mark]

For me a 1 step is either an AIO polish or a more aggressive polish followed by a wax or sealant. The goal for a 1 step is to get a moderate amount of correction using only 1 product and one run over the entire vehicle.

A 2 step is compound followed by a polish then LSP.

I generally only do 1 steps for retail clients unless they are willing to pay for a compound step. Compounding to do real correction is what takes huge chunks of time... and it is also something most retail clients don't care about. Most of them just want it clean and shiny.
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[statusdetailing]

I don't do a 1 step compound. I do an AIO with D151 or a single step polish with 205.

[zmcgovern45]

I don't do a 1 step compound. I do an AIO with D151 or a single step polish with 205.

Unless you have done your test spots and determine the car has very hard clear coat, typically I would not recommend a 1 step with a compound. With that being said, most of the popular compounds (FG400, M105, M101, D300) finish down so well that you may not need to follow up with a polish, however I have almost always found that following a compound with a polish produces better results no matter what the paint hardness is like.

Keep in mind cutting power is also pad dependent - so you could use something like FG400 with a white polishing pad to achieve more cut than a traditional polish, but still much less cut than using FG400 with something like a MF cutting pad. This has proven to be a useful 1-step combo for me on occasion.

[statusdetailing]

Unless you have done your test spots and determine the car has very hard clear coat, typically I would not recommend a 1 step with a compound. With that being said, most of the popular compounds (FG400, M105, M101, D300) finish down so well that you may not need to follow up with a polish, however I have almost always found that following a compound with a polish produces better results no matter what the paint hardness is like.

Keep in mind cutting power is also pad dependent - so you could use something like FG400 with a white polishing pad to achieve more cut than a traditional polish, but still much less cut than using FG400 with something like a MF cutting pad. This has proven to be a useful 1-step combo for me on occasion.

I agree. Occasionally I'll do a one step with a compound but it's rare. One of the main reasons is time. Usually clients aren't willing to pay a lot for a one step. Compounds, although some finish well, typically dust more and are more difficult to remove than polishes like 205.

[statusdetailing]

I should be working right now haha. There's an Excursion in my shop waiting to be detailed. . .Black, full paint correction and interior. . .it's going to be a long couple days.

[Pureshine]

Most of my 1 steps I use MF pads with FG400 or D300 they finish down very well for 1 steps and followed with a sealant. My 2 steps start out like a one step just add a finishing polish and then wax/sealant. I don't consider wax/sealant only because after you do paint correction you should use a sealant or a wax. Thats just me a lot of people consider wax/sealant a step but I don't.

[nissenc1337]

When I bought the Mustang I saw the water spots all over the car, had it detailed, looked good. But my eye wasn't trained at the time and now I know how to identify and name imperfections. My car has micro marring and water spots, even after this "buffing."

I'm thinking I'll start with an CCS orange pad and polish, if that doesnt get results I'll throw compound on the orange pad and go to work. Followed by a white pad and polish, then blue pad and glaze/wax. Sound like a good plan of attack?