Megs polish to sealant and Optimum polish to sealant no wipedown

[WRXINXS]

After my experience yesterday with polish removal and wipedown with Griots Pre-Wax Cleaner causing micromarring, I was wondering if there any any combos out there that if I stay with the same brand I can go straight from polishing to sealant application and skip the wipedown?

I have heard I can use megs polishes followed by a megs sealant without a wipedown? I heard this from Admin Michael Stoops on the Meguiars forum. He posted:

"All Meguiar's products are compatible with one another, meaning you won't have any issues applying any of our waxes or sealants on top of any of our polishes, etc. There is no real need to do this but, as mentioned, it can be a great tool (By tool he is talking about a wipedown) to make sure you're removing all the defects and not just hiding them.

So I could go right from M205 into Megs Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0? I guess I don't know really who Michael Stoops is to trust his advice lol!

I have also heard that with optimum polishes I can go from the polish right into Opti-Coat with just a damp towel wipedown? Dr. G told me that the same would go for Opti-Seal which I would be using. Does anyone have any personal experience doing this?

Drew

[FUNX650]

I've always done the Meg's polishes to the Meg's LSP's (that are available in the USA)...
without performing a "IPA-ish wipedown", in-between their applications.

(Can't wait to try M188, though...Speaking of which:
Meguiar's does recommend performing an "IPA-ish, in-between wipedown" before application.)



Bob

[cardaddy]

I see no reason why not just follow through with your workflow.

Once you've done your test spots/areas and know what works with the particular problem you're dealing with, then why not let the products do what they are made to do?

I've done it both ways with the full line of Megs. (Typically 105/205 or 101/205 or UC/UP then M21, UW, finish spray etc.) But honestly, unless you're really looking for that nth degree of correction, just to make sure you've honed in on your process, then NO you don't need to do a wipe down in between.

[Pureshine]

I've always done the Meg's polishes to the Meg's LSP's (that are available in the USA)...
without performing a "IPA-ish wipedown", in-between their applications.

(Can't wait to try M188, though...Speaking of which:
Meguiar's does recommend performing an "IPA-ish, in-between wipedown" before application.)



Bob

By not doing a wipe down of some kind how do you guarantee there is no residue left on the paint. If the paint has any polish residue sealant can't bond to paint. I always to a wipe down after every paint correction. I do a wipe down after every panel so I don't miss anything. Last thing I want to do is got back and do the panel again.
Todd

[Hoytman]

By not doing a wipe down of some kind how do you guarantee there is no residue left on the paint. If the paint has any polish residue sealant can't bond to paint. I always to a wipe down after every paint correction. I do a wipe down after every panel so I don't miss anything. Last thing I want to do is got back and do the panel again.
Todd

Why change what works for you? I wouldn't. If it works, do it.

However, if Mr. Stoops, who works for Meguiar's, and Mr. Phillips who used to work for Meguiar's says that there is compatibility between products, then I think their comments can be trusted.

Same goes for Dr. G and his products. Many times I have read where a wipe down isn't needed before applying opti-seal, and/or opti-coat coatings as long as you're using optimum products to compound and polish with, or ONR to wash with before applying an LSP.

No one is saying not to do a wipe down for inspecting the surface to make sure all the defects are gone, if you're so inclined, rather, a wipe down isn't necessary if you're using compatible products. Two completely different issues at hand. Take into consideration what you're mostly concerned with, defect removal, or finishing lsp ready without additional steps and worries.

If you're worried that you may not have removed all of the defects (which should be found out in the test spot anyway) then by all means wipe the paint down.

If all you're concerned with is bonding, then as best as I can tell the manufacturers are saying a wipedown isn't necessary (key words there)...that comes down from the chemists. Most detailers aren't chemists. No reason to further complicate things, only if you choose to.

[Pureshine]

Why change what works for you? I wouldn't. If it works, do it.

However, if Mr. Stoops, who works for Meguiar's, and Mr. Phillips who used to work for Meguiar's says that there is compatibility between products, then I think their comments can be trusted.

Same goes for Dr. G and his products. Many times I have read where a wipe down isn't needed before applying opti-seal, and/or opti-coat coatings as long as you're using optimum products to compound and polish with, or ONR to wash with before applying an LSP.

No one is saying not to do a wipe down for inspecting the surface to make sure all the defects are gone, if you're so inclined, rather, a wipe down isn't necessary if you're using compatible products. Two completely different issues at hand. Take into consideration what you're mostly concerned with, defect removal, or finishing lsp ready without additional steps and worries.

If you're worried that you may not have removed all of the defects (which should be found out in the test spot anyway) then by all means wipe the paint down.

If all you're concerned with is bonding, then as best as I can tell the manufacturers are saying a wipedown isn't necessary (key words there)...that comes down from the chemists. Most detailers aren't chemists. No reason to further complicate things, only if you choose to.

I'm not making things more complicated at all and for test spot is just a test spot to see you combos work for that paint. None of said we where chemist here so not sure where that came from. please don't put words in my mouth I didn't say anything against Mr. Bubbles or mike so once again do not put words in my mouth I don't appreciate it. I was just giving my opinion is all and I have been doing this for a long time and just trying to help.
Todd

[CM8 6MT]

By not doing a wipe down of some kind how do you guarantee there is no residue left on the paint. If the paint has any polish residue sealant can't bond to paint. I always to a wipe down after every paint correction. I do a wipe down after every panel so I don't miss anything. Last thing I want to do is got back and do the panel again.
Todd

I agree with Todd here. Also Mike Stoops is the voice of Meguiar's, and trained some of the top detailers you guys know well by name.

Regardless of product compatability, I always wipe down my panel after compounding/polishing. Its just common sense to do so. What the great Mike Stoops said was that you can apply any and all Meg's products because they are designed to work with each other with no issues.

[FUNX650]

By not doing a wipe down of some kind how do you guarantee there is no residue left on the paint.

^^^***See below***^^^


If the paint has any polish residue sealant can't bond to paint.

^^^Please...Tell me:^^^
-How you have proved this is true...
-Or how I may prove this is true myself. Thanks

I always to a wipe down after every paint correction. I do a wipe down after every panel so I don't miss anything. Last thing I want to do is got back and do the panel again.

^^^Sometime or other...Ya gotta trust your "test-spot"!!^^^

Todd...

*** Since I've used Meguiar's products for many a year, I have no need to ever worry about
removing any Meg's polish-residues, before applying any of their LSP's...
(Save M188, that is. I'll have to wait awhile, it seems, to be more objective about this Meg's LSP.)

-Did I forget to mention that I sometimes "mix-up" different manufacturers' product lines?
Following is just one example:

I always get stellar results from using some of 3M's compounds/polishes, followed by a host of different Meg's LSP's...
without ever blinking an eye, or employing an "IPA-ish wipedown"...
anywhere/anytime during my vehicles' detailing-processes...!!


I ask you: Blasphemous...Or no?




Bob

[WRXINXS]

I know there are many opinions on wipedown between polish and sealant, but in my case with the super soft paint I will just go right from polish to LSP. Especially hearing from Mr. Stoops and Dr. G that it is OK to do so. I know Bob has alot of Meguiars experince as well.

If the LSP does not bond very well, I can always apply a second coat after a few washes.

This is all in reference to the recent job I did on my WRX. Came out beautiful except for micro-marring. When I hit it next time I will most likely do:

M205 followed by Meguiars #21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0 w/no wipedown (Inspired by 6M8 6MT's recent post about this great combination)

Or,

One of Optimums Polishes (Polish II/Hyper/Finish Polish) followed by Opti-Seal w/no wipedown.

Probably hit it with XMT360 between now and next correction as it is also a fine product.

[Hoytman]

I'm not making things more complicated at all and for test spot is just a test spot to see you combos work for that paint. None of said we where chemist here so not sure where that came from. please don't put words in my mouth I didn't say anything against Mr. Bubbles or mike so once again do not put words in my mouth I don't appreciate it. I was just giving my opinion is all and I have been doing this for a long time and just trying to help.
Todd

Todd,

I think you read a little too much into my above post and imparted a tone into my words that I can assure you was not there. That's okay...I've been guilty of doing the same thing at times. Comes with the territory...forums that is.


I was simply speaking to anyone and the only line that actually refered to you was the first line. If what you do works, then by all means, do it. I have no issue with that. Why should I? However, I do believe what Bob said to be true; at some point you have to trust your test spot.


The context of the opening post was to gather information about doing a wipedown before applying an lsp and for LSP bonding purposes. Nowhere in that post do I see a mention of doing a wipedown with regard to seeing if defect removal was completed. Perhaps read that opening post again.


Have I done ISP wipedowns before? Yes. After using M105/M205 on my test spots as well as after doing other test spots with various brands. This tells me all I need to know. That is, I find out if I've indeed removed the defects and then I proceed with the rest of the project and straight to a "like" lsp.

I do this because I've learned to trust what I'm told by people who have been in contact with manufacturers and their chemists...people like M. Phillips and M. Stoops. That's where the reference to chemists comes from and wasn't directed towards anyone in particular...as I don't think that many detailers are privy to the same information as the employees and former employees, with one exception, detailers who hang out on forums, like us.


Even before I learned to trust "people in the know", I used these (old school Meguiar's) compounds/polishes years before ever knowing of Mr. Phillip/Stoops, and even then I had no issues going straight to a "like" lsp...and often a non-like lsp. Been doing that since the early 80's on my dads cars...long before forums came along and back when I knew less than I know now, which isn't saying a lot.

EDIT:

Speaking of, 'where did that come from'...

...Who is Mr. Bubbles?