How do coatings hold up to decontamination steps?

[silvermesa]

I have been reading lately all of the threads about the new fangled coatings such as Opti Gard, Opti Coat, 22PLE, C Quartz and others and wonder how these coatings hold up to decontamination twice yearly for tar and iron removal?

I can see the appeal for having a semi permanent/ permanant coating to possibly reduce maintenance. How do you experienced users feel about this new process as compared to traditional methods of decontaminating and waxing/sealing twice per year or more?

[octane]

I messed up the application of Opti coat 2.0 on my black rav4, wiped too hard, didn't let it setup correctly... after a quick pass with megs 105 there were still traces of the coating... so a light claying two times a year would not bother me...

[silvermesa]

Thanks for the reply above regarding clay! What about other products like liquid chemical products that remove tar and iron?

[AutowerxDetailing]

The types of coatings you mentioned can essentially only be removed by polishing them off of the paint. I say "essentially" because technically some of the SIO2 based coatings can be chemically stripped using an extremely strong (pH 11) cleaner left to dwell for quite some time... so basically they can only be removed with the type of chemicals you would never want near your paint anyway.

With that being said, claying with mild clay and things like Iron-X/Tar-X should be fine and will leave the coating intact.

[neat e34]

From what I've heard the only things that can remove these coatings are things that would also remove paint.
i.e, mechanical abrasion, EXTREMELY strong chemicals (paint stripper, brake fluid?, some acids & bases, etc)

Have read about & seen videos of some fairly intense long-term testing...

[swanicyouth]

Some info on "coatings" from Polished Bliss. Some of them may degrade with iron removal type products, clay, or strong cleaners they found. They say 22ple doesn't degrade with exposure to these products. Check it out:

"Now that we have confirmed how 22PLE VX1 Pro Signature Glass Coat differs to rival products, we can look at the benefits this brings. Firstly, because it contains no alcohol, it does not flash off upon contact, which makes it far easier to apply. Secondly, because it fully crystallizes, it forms a much harder and more durable coating than rival products. We've tested this by subjecting 22PLE VX1 Pro Signature Glass Coat and the closest rival products we stock to a brutal decontamination test, in which treated panels were: (i) washed at 60oC; (ii) soaked and wiped down with Autosmart Tardis; (iii) soaked and wiped down with Auto Finesse Iron Out; (iv) clayed with Auto Finesse Clay; (v) wiped down with neat ReAgent Isopropyl Alcohol, and; (vi) finally washed at 60oC again. In all cases, rival nanotechnology treatments were clearly stripped to a large extent (greatly diminished beading), but the panel treated with 22PLE VX1 Pro Signature Glass Coat was left beading as strongly as the day it was first applied"

Tardis is a product that removes tar and glue, along with organic matter like bugs.

[FUNX650]

new fangled coatings such as Opti Gard, Opti Coat<<<(Permanent)
22PLE; C Quartz<<<(Not permanent)
and others<<<(so far: not permanent)

and wonder how these coatings hold up to decontamination twice yearly for tar and iron removal?
...this new process as compared to traditional methods of decontaminating and waxing/sealing twice per year or more?

^^^IMHO…This kind of defeats the purpose of one of the: Coatings'-promises...Less maintenance!!^^

claying with mild clay and things like Iron-X/Tar-X should be fine and will leave the coating intact.

@OP/silvermesa:

Are you suggesting that "Coatings"...some of which provide:

-A 2-4 &#181; thick film-build
-A very smooth surface that has limited adhesion-properties

…Are porous?
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________

Just addressing the Optimum-Coatings:

Foreword (per Optimum):

"Optimum’s Opti-Coat is based on a pre-polymer resin that once it is applied, it cross links and reacts with
urethane and other clear coat paints to form a permanent film.
Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch & mar resistance, and release properties
than any automotive coating in use.

Opti-Coat has better resistance to chemicals (acid), scratches and release properties than other automotive coating
currently in use. This coating has a 2-4 &#181; (microns) applied thickness and a hardness of 9H (Pencil Hardness)
when fully cross-linked and provides a semi-permanent coating. Its application is similar to that of a
single component Isocyanate that forms a semi-permanent clear coat finish and lasts almost indefinitely.
Unlike waxes and paint sealants that require frequent re-application.

Like a regular clear coat, Opti Coat lasts indefinitely unless
it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint removers".

My understandings/Postulations of: Opti-Coatings

1.) Pre-application...
(Getting the surface areas that are to be Opti-Garded/Coated to your level of: Expectations/Satisfaction) by:

a.) Use of a total paint-decontamination-system to ensure removal/neutralization of all contaminates.
(Iron-X, and its ilk, are "marketed" as being for the riddance of: ferrous-metals contaminates only…
(Not for all of the different types of acids a vehicle comes in contact with, or other non-ferrous contaminates.)

b.) Clay for peace of mind

c.) Removal of paint-defects [compound/polishing step(s), if deemed necessary]

d.) Then a: Make the paint squeaky-clean process…
[unless using Optimum’s abrading/cleaning(eraser?)-products]

2.) Application:
a.) As directed; "Self-taught"

b.) Allowance for completion of curing-time (~ 30 or more days)

3.) Post application:
a.) Using proper protocol: Wash; Dry;

b.)Then: Enjoy your ride!!!


I suppose…

-If a person believes the 'shine' has decreased over a period of time…
and desires to: Clay---an abrasive...(Use of the least-aggressive clay-methods)

-And/Or feels it’s time to 'remove' some scratches/swirls by "other type of abrasives"
(using the recommended polish/methods)…

...Then they should go right on ahead!


-But since Opti-Coatings are reknowned for not allowing: "Adherence"…

Then my response/answer to the following inquiry of yours
(and being germane, at least to the Opti-Coatings):

"…traditional methods of decontaminating and waxing/sealing twice per year or more"?

Is...IMHO:

"No longer in vogue".



Bob

[RaskyR1]

I've used IronX and TarX on several cars coated with OG with zero effect on the coating. Claying on the other hand, while it won't remove OG, it does run the risk of marring the finish, so do a test spot first.


Can't speak for the other coatings yet.