New Infiniti g37xS with DISO and need help deciding what to use here!

**Marc Hufnagel** · 10-07-2012, 08:25 PM

Well just for fun I thought I'd try the MF kit (cutting/d300) and do a test area as I was getting a bit frustrated I guess.

I was using the twin halogens for light. I couldn't believe I had achieved what IO was looking at. In just a couple of minutes it removed what UP, 205 and 105 could not.

I don't know if it was my technique with the 205/105/UP or what, but with the D300/MF it was so easy.

It took about 4.5 hours to D300 the car, and I'm contemplating doing the D301 to remove any light hazing. I should have some pictures tomorrow evening but I can't wait to see what it looks like after the next step.

In short I'm very pleased with what I am seeing. I am not so much going for 'show car quality', but awesome DD quality. I have a feeling that I'm going to get even more compliments and that's fine by me.

**Marc Hufnagel** · 10-07-2012, 08:58 PM

Now that above being said....

M205 (white)/ UP (white) / D301 (mf finishing) to hopefully clear up leftover hazing from D300?

I'm going with dg105 or collinite 845 as an lsp for sure .

**ShaunD** · 10-07-2012, 09:12 PM

Again, with that many options, do a test spot to see what will work best for your paint and your expectations. Some paint finishes out much better with foam vice MF. I would even test out the crimson HT pad with 205 or UP just to see what results/gloss you get with the least aggressive setup you have.

**Marc Hufnagel** · 10-07-2012, 09:38 PM

Originally Posted by ShaunD

Again, with that many options, do a test spot to see what will work best for your paint and your expectations. Some paint finishes out much better with foam vice MF. I would even test out the crimson HT pad with 205 or UP just to see what results/gloss you get with the least aggressive setup you have.

Sorry guys for all the questions I'm trying to soak up as much as I can. I'm thinking I won't see as big a difference in this next step as getting rid of so so many of the swirls and rids initially.

This next step is a finer step than the first one if I understand correctly.

Mike Phillips · 10-08-2012, 07:08 AM

Originally Posted by Hellspawn

Well just for fun I thought I'd try the MF kit (cutting/d300) and do a test area as I was getting a bit frustrated I guess.

I was using the twin halogens for light. I couldn't believe I had achieved what IO was looking at. In just a couple of minutes it removed what UP, 205 and 105 could not.

I don't know if it was my technique with the 205/105/UP or what, but with the D300/MF it was so easy.

Interesting. Makes sense the D300 with a "fiber" pad would do some amazing cutting on softer paints but the potential for leaving DA Haze is a possibility.

Originally Posted by Hellspawn

It took about 4.5 hours to D300 the car,

That's about right. For anyone reading this thread, if you're new to machine polishing, to take your time and do a good job for the first step, that is the most important step, for an average size car it's going to take you about 4 hours.

And that's just the compounding step. That doesn't include washing, drying, claying, taping off, etc.

Originally Posted by ShaunD

Again, with that many options, do a test spot to see what will work best for your paint and your expectations.

Perfect answer.

With all the options you have at your disposal, (pad and product choices), do some testing and then some inspecting and see which pad and product combinations are giving you the best results.

**Marc Hufnagel** · 10-08-2012, 09:01 AM

Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek

Interesting. Makes sense the D300 with a "fiber" pad would do some amazing cutting on softer paints but the potential for leaving DA Haze is a possibility.

That's about right. For anyone reading this thread, if you're new to machine polishing, to take your time and do a good job for the first step, that is the most important step, for an average size car it's going to take you about 4 hours.

And that's just the compounding step. That doesn't include washing, drying, claying, taping off, etc.

Perfect answer.

With all the options you have at your disposal, (pad and product choices), do some testing and then some inspecting and see which pad and product combinations are giving you the best results.

Took about 20 minutes to tape off, I did the ironx a few days after I got the car, then left it in my garage for a day or two, rinseless washed it, then clayed it. Due to life schedules I can't do an all-day like I'd like to

The best and most rewarding part so far was seeing the rids and swirls disappearing, and I accomplished that! I was telling my daughter at one point 'see that scratch there?, just watch' and working it with the D300/MF then wiping it off with it vanished.

Since I read about the possibility/liklihood of hazing with the D300/MF combo thats why I've asked if I should do the M205/white or do D301/MF? I'm planning on something else for a LSP though.

Could that 'hard clear' sticker mean ceramic or something similar since it took the MF to remove these defects as it did? I was working it the same way as the white pad/205 UP white pad combo.

Pictures later today I hope.

Planning on bringing it to the Evansville meet next week!

**Marc Hufnagel** · 10-08-2012, 05:08 PM

Ok here are some befores, however I've never taken pictures of swirls but I did read Mike's tutorial about pictures like this, so:

and now:

Process started out as UP/white, then M205/White, but the swirls and rids simply laughed at it for some reason. I was contemplating an orange pad/205, but on a thought I tried the MF kit, D300/cutting and the swirls and rids simply melted out of sight. I used the same technique as with the prior attempts so I don't know why I could not get anywhere with them and this worked great.

Then came D301/finishing and it did noticeably brighten the surface so there was some hazing I guess as I've read about.

Now that above being said, I'll let the 301 sit there, but going to top it with some DG aquawax for the time being. I am very happy with how it turned out (because I DID IT), this is a month-old car and my heart sank when I saw the condition of the paint in the sun on delivery. I know there are some that could examine it and laugh at it, but I did this and when I was finished I thought 'wow'.

All better for now!

Update: Ugh why are those pictures all blotchy?

Mike Phillips · 10-09-2012, 06:14 AM

[quote=Hellspawn;748626]

this is a month-old car and my heart sank when I saw the condition of the paint in the sun on delivery. I know there are some that could examine it and laugh at it, but I did this and when I was finished I thought 'wow'.

Looks great! You did a great job and I'm sure you now feel better about your pride and joy.

Originally Posted by Hellspawn

Update: Ugh why are those pictures all blotchy?

Looks good on my monitors... red does have a tendency to pixelate or look blotchy. Someone once told me it's the compression software does to correct size? That's out of my realm of expertise.

Good job though, often times persistence and tenacity win out over everything else.

Mike Phillips · 10-09-2012, 06:15 AM

Originally Posted by Hellspawn

Planning on bringing it to the Evansville meet next week!

Sounds good, I'm looking forward to meeting you and seeing your handiwork first hand.

**Marc Hufnagel** · 10-09-2012, 07:36 AM

Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek

Sounds good, I'm looking forward to meeting you and seeing your handiwork first hand.

If you get a chance maybe you can check it and see where I can improve, as I know it's not a professionalo job, but trust me in saying it looks a lot better than the day I got it. The salesguy offered to 'send it down to detail' before I left..

Found out they run them through their own tunnel wash every 2 weeks until they sell.