M205 as standalone and Ironx

[Bigbull2984]

Hi my paint is in fairly good shape on all our cars and they are all DD for me and the wife, so not looking to use a compound. From research I see the M205 has just enough cut to take out light swirls. Can this be used alone with a white or orange ccs pad, then top with BFWD, M26 paste, or BFMS.

Just looking to do a two step process do to time restraints.

All the paints on these cars have been clayed within the last 6 month. I want to use Ironx on the paint but is there a cheaper alternative?

[RZJZA80]

yes you can use 205 as a one step. the finish will depend on the pad used, and your skill level, but it's a very good one stepper. Depending on the car, start with a white pad and move to the orange if you want a bit more cut, and see how you like the results and finish, then finish with a white if you need to.

[mg6045]

Sure, M205 can definitely be used as a 1 step product.

Just be sure to buy the small 8oz bottle (if you didnt alreadys purchase it) first and do a test spot. M205 can be finicky on soft paints when used with a DA polisher. Just be sure to do the research on how to use this product as its a different abrasive technology than traditional polish's. Basically you keep pressure from start to finish during the buffing cycle.
Meguiars Mirror Glaze #205 Ultra Finishing Polish, final polish, car polish, M205, Meguires


I have found this product to be great on basically any car I have used it on.
Menzerna Power Finish PO 203, one step polish, swirl remover, finishing polish, car polish, german car polish, menzerna polishing compounds, power

32oz bottle is much more cost effective.

As for an IronX alternative. Theres a couple products that have similar technology on the internet, but none of them are cheap.

[Bigbull2984]

yes you can use 205 as a one step. the finish will depend on the pad used I think I will stick to the white pad, and your skill levelNovice, I have used the MF DA kit and got good result, but it's a very good one stepper. Depending on the car, start with a white pad and move to the orange if you want a bit more cutAgain just to rethink it the orange might be too much cut, before winter I might use the orange with m105 , and see how you like the results and finish, then finish with a white if you need to.

Thanks

[richy]

The truth is nobody will know until you try it. All paint responds differently. Having said that, I see no reason why it won't work. You may want to go over it with DG 501 and a black pad or even green to clean the paint. Apply your wax 12 hours after that. DG 501 has very good sealant properties all on its own, so it just depends on how much protection you want to put on there. Those 2 steps will make it look amazing though.

[Mike Phillips]

Sure, M205 can definitely be used as a 1 step product.

Just be sure to buy the small 8oz bottle (if you didn't already purchase it) first and do a test spot. M205 can be finicky on soft paints when used with a DA polisher.

And I would strongly agree with the above...

Basically you keep pressure from start to finish during the buffing cycle.

I've never agreed with this but that's just me. I teach and practice starting with firm pressure and the reducing downward pressure for the last few passes, not so much because of the type of abrasive technology but because I believe,

Polishing paint is an art form, not a grinding process

After you've made a few passes chances are the product will have dissipated in some way or another, any diminishing abrasives will have broken down, if you are in fact abrading the paint then you'll have paint particles on the face of the pad and if you continue to push this mish-mash of stuff against the paint I don't know that it's going to be creating beauty or grinding the mish-mash against the paint.

I also don't know that a person can tell the difference between the two techniques on ALL paints, especially without doing a controlled test. So I figure the practice of reducing downward pressure can't be any worse than maintaining the same pressure and in some cases I do believe a case can be made that it won't be grinding the mish-mash of stuff into the paint, at least not as hard.

But again, what's most important is for the person doing the buffing to be happy with the results.

This topic kind of reminds me of the same type of discussion going on here about whether the pad rotates or does not rotate as you're suing an oscillating tool like a Porter Cable DA Polisher.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-thoughts.html

I've seen some reputable detailers state that pad rotation isn't important and if that technique removes defects, (removes paint), effectively for them then that's all that's important and they are completely free to and encouraged to get out the cyber soap box and teach everyone their method, especially if they can explain in detail how it's better or more effective than a pad rotating over the surface at the same time it's oscillating.

[Bigbull2984]

The truth is nobody will know until you try it. All paint responds differently. Having said that, I see no reason why it won't work. You may want to go over it with DG 501 and a black pad or even green to clean the paint. Apply your wax 12 hours after that. DG 501 has very good sealant properties all on its own, so it just depends on how much protection you want to put on there. Those 2 steps will make it look amazing though.

The DG 501 is a great idea and thought of doing this, but cant wait the 12 hours to apply the LSP...And want to use just whats in the arsenal. I just placed a couple of AG orders last week and I am sure that if a another box from AG shows up at my door I will need a place to sleep ...

[richy]

The DG 501 is a great idea and thought of doing this, but cant wait the 12 hours to apply the LSP...And want to use just whats in the arsenal. I just placed a couple of AG orders last week and I am sure that if a another box from AG shows up at my door I will need a place to sleep ...

OK, well you have 2 choices if you want to use the 501. (and I think it would look amazing over the 205!) #1, 501 has a very strong sealant base to it already. You're using it as an AIO in this case, which is why I suggested the milder black or green pad as you'll do less correcting and cleaning (just basically cleaning up after 205, but it's still important to do) and you'll have probably 4 to 6 months of protection from it alone. #2 choice is to get some DG 601 locally from a Carquest or somewhere and mix them 4:1 (4 parts 501; 1 part 601) and top the mix immediately afterward with either another sealant or wax of choice.