3-Step Product Questions

[AutowerxDetailing]

I am looking to expand my standard service offerings into multi-step paint correction. I have never wet-sanded paint but I plan on buying a junk hood from the salvage yard and going to town on it to get a feel for the process. I will probably do both my daily drivers as well since they have some RIDS I want to take care of. Once I am confident in my skills I will start marketing for paint correction.

My question for you all is this: What products/procedures do you typically use for 3-step or 2-step paint correction? I have m105 and m205 that I typically will use for heavily swirled paint but it doesn't always get out some of the deeper RIDS. I would like to be able to offer my customers over 90% correction for their paint.

Thanks in advance to everyone who chimes in on this thread!

[Meticulous-Detail]

I have M105/205 also, along with the Megs DA MF system and use both depending on the car. I like Menzerna products also. Nice to have a variety of products. I was using the MF system on a repainted 70 Road Runner with clear and wasn't happy with results. Posted up on AG and Mike was nice enough to respond with some suggestions that worked well. So I switched to foam pads and tried another polish and it worked out well. The MF system is designed to work together and for OEM paints, not resprays.

What size pads are you using and what type of machine; FLEX, PC, GG......etc? I noticed faster and easier correction with 105 and 205 when I switched to a 5 or 5.5 pad rather then a 6. Also the GG DA is more powerful then the PC.

[AutowerxDetailing]

I have a PC 7424XP and an assortment of 5.5" LC CCS and HT pads.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Pick up some optimum MF cutting pads and use them with D300 or M105. With the PCXP, you'll have to use speed 5 or 6. If that won't remove the defects, you'll need a rotary. Nothing on the Flex 3401 will cut better than MF cutting pads on a regular DA.

[AutowerxDetailing]

Okay, now for some ultra-noob questions: Does a typical 3-step process include wet sanding? What are the products/pads you would typically use on each step?

On the few paint correction jobs I have done I used:
Step 1: m105 on 5.5" LC HT Cyan
Step 2: m205 on 5.5" LC HT Tangerine
Step 3: LSP on 5.5" LC HT Crimson

Would the above process be considered 2-step or 3-step paint correction?

[RhetoricMixes]

Okay, now for some ultra-noob questions: Does a typical 3-step process include wet sanding? What are the products/pads you would typically use on each step?

On the few paint correction jobs I have done I used:
Step 1: m105 on 5.5" LC HT Cyan
Step 2: m205 on 5.5" LC HT Tangerine
Step 3: LSP on 5.5" LC HT Crimson

Would the above process be considered 2-step or 3-step paint correction?

I would say that wet sanding not be considered a "step" but rather part of the process. I wouldnt charge specifically for wetsanding but instead include it (if applicable) to your paint correcting services. And in regards to your above steps those would be considered a 2 step correction since your using two products on the car that would abrade paint. The LSP isnt considered a step since its just protecting the car and it will come off eventually.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Okay, now for some ultra-noob questions: Does a typical 3-step process include wet sanding? What are the products/pads you would typically use on each step?

On the few paint correction jobs I have done I used:
Step 1: m105 on 5.5" LC HT Cyan
Step 2: m205 on 5.5" LC HT Tangerine
Step 3: LSP on 5.5" LC HT Crimson

Would the above process be considered 2-step or 3-step paint correction?

Nick,

Don't get too caught up on a 3-step correction, unless you're using a rotary and wool pad. A beautiful finish can be obtained with 2-steps with good polishes(M105/M205, Wolfgang TSR/FG) and a DA.