getting ready for spring

[pixelmonkey]

I'll break out the questions so they're easy to quote and answer.

Currently have Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845, liquid wax, heat-resistant wax, car wax on the Subaru Forester. Just 1 coat completed in October.
I have one coat of the 845 topped with BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection, paint sealant, synthetic sealant, blackfire sealant and a few other waxes on my Ridgeline. Last wax was applied in December.

• I'm looking for a wash to use in my foam cannon to remove the wax and LSP from each vehicle. Suggestions?

• Next, I plan to coat the Forester with "PRODUCT X", not carried by PBMA. I also plan to coat the Ridgeline with Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating FREE BONUS I'm wanting to know if BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection, paint sealant, synthetic sealant, blackfire sealant or Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845, liquid wax, heat-resistant wax, car wax can be applied over the top of the Opticoat for more shine. Is this possible? *given adequate cure time*

• Last but not least... debating on using the Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating FREE BONUS to coat the wheels *inside barrell and outside* along with the plastic wheel wells. Does the Opti coat hold up to brake well enough to justify coating the wheels on a daily driver?

chris<pixelmonkey>

[Setec Astronomy]

It is my understanding that many members use OC 2.0 on the wheels of their daily drivers. It's been previously stated that it's folly to top OC 2.0, because nothing will stick, even more OC 2.0. However, since it has also been stated that the newest OC 2.0 is "layerable", that may have changed some. Stripping...certainly people use APC like OPC, but this is one that a lot of people seem to like to use for stripping: Chemical Guys Citrus Wash Clear Shampoo 16 oz.

[shoeless89]

For stipping wax, Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Clear

Wax/sealants won't stick to the OC

OC works great on wheels! My summer wheels are coated with OC